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vbdomenico View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Tire load range
    Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 9:40am
I have about 10,000 miles on the original tires on my 2020 R-pod 190.  They are still in good shape, but I am getting ready for another long trip so I decided to replace them.  I am either going with Carlisle or GY Endurance and I am not concerned about which one to chose, but I cannot figure out if I should stick with Load Range D or bump up to E.  I rarely drive over 65 mph so speed rating is not important.  My concern with going with E is that the pod will start bouncing around more than it already is.  Or should I go with E for the extra weight capacity but keep the psi lower to reduce bouncing?
I often travel with the fresh water tank full, my TV is a Ram 1500 so I am not concerned about tongue weight or tow capacity.

Thanks!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 9:53am
Since trailer tires have thick sidewalls that don't reject heat as well as conventional tires I wouldn't recommend underinflating them. That will cause more sidewall flex and heating. So its better to keep trailer tires inflated to spec.

So, I would base my decision on what load you need the tires to carry, and then add a reasonable safety factor, but not so much that you shake the trailer to pieces. The 190 has a 3500 lb axle and it sounds like you won't be much below that based on having a full water tank. So that is 3500/2 = 1750. Adding say a 25-50% safety factor gives you a range of about 2200 to 2600 lbs. Depending on whether or not you have 14 inch or 15 inch wheels that's likely either a LRD or LRE. I ended up with 15 inch LRD's at 2500 lbs for my (heavily loaded) 179. 

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john in idaho View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 10:00am
I have an 07 Ram 1500 and 179.  I had the factory C tires for 5 seasons.  I went with E rated tires because I like the extra safety margin.  And my mechanic friend uses them on his.  I don't notice any extra bounce in the mirrors or with the stuff inside the trailer.  But I do notice the loss of that little bit of almost imperceptible side to side movement, and the side wall squish that I used to see in the mirrors with road irregularities.  And the tire pressure is higher.  Take your pick.  Either is better, I think.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 10:16am
My factory tires are Castle Rock 15" LRD.  I always have had a TPS system. They have done well, but I have read on multiple forums that when these were replaced with GY or Carlisles that the trailer towed better, but I was not sure how/why.
 The Carlisle LRD tires I am looking at have a 2540 lb capacity so that should put me well into the safety factor Offgrid mentions.
With all of the miles I put on my pod, it really gets bounced around a lot, so I am leaning towards LRD.
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 5:05pm
Have traveled over 34,000 miles over the past 9+ years on 2 sets of so called "China bomb" tires without issue, the first set was 7 years old when replaced (I did not note the fact they were already 2 years old when purchased new back in January 2011) and the current set will be 5 years old in November; they are Hartland tires (China built) from Tire Factory.  Both have been the "C" tire and always travel (at least when we start) with a full FW tank when leaving.  Thinking we will graduate to the Carlisle "D" when they are replaced next spring.  I do note that the current tires flex a fair amount when traveling over rough, gravel or back unpaved roads but have never had any incident.  Keeping the psi in the max range of 50 psi has been a substantial reason why I feel we have been so fortunate.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 6:19pm
+1 to jato. My sense is that much of the "china bomb" syndrome is inadequate focus by the owner on maintaining proper tire pressure. No one wants to acknowledge personal responsibility. much easier to blame the manufacturer instead. Not saying that's the whole story, or that manufacturing defects don't occur,  but its part of it. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 7:21pm
Also, there is a big difference in weight between a 177 and a 179. The 179 is near the maximum capacity of LR-C tires. That is why I upgraded to LR-D tires. I wanted a bigger safety margin.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2020 at 2:04pm
Years ago, when we were replacing the tiny tires on our pop up camper, my husband talked to a well experienced tire guy who told him that the biggest mistake people make is under inflating their tires. He said the tire manufacturers print the correct PSI on the side of their tires for a reason and that is what the tire is designed to run at for best results. Those tiny tires needed 70 lbs of pressure.  That’s the advice we have always gone with for all our tires. We have rarely felt that we didn’t get good mileage from tires since that time. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2020 at 2:37pm
I've always wondered about this because the correct inflation is *not* what's printed on the side of the tire. (At least not on mine).  I have  Carlisle Ds. I don't travel over 60 MPH.

It says "maximum psi" which implies less is also good and could even be better. I never know what to do. 

Plus if I inflate to 65 (what is on the side) when cold (which is when I think I'm supposed to measure,) as soon as I start driving the pressure will go up.  Am I suppose to let air out when it gets over 65?


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2020 at 4:43pm
NO. Let it be, that is normal. Inflate to cold air pressure, if you deflate you will deflate to HOT air pressure.
Mike Carter
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