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Topic ClosedRPOD 171 Water Pump Question and Mod

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Rustler View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: RPOD 171 Water Pump Question and Mod
    Posted: 05 Jun 2016 at 1:09am
I was able to locate the water pump on our Rpod 171 - behind a plywood access plate next the the furnace. Although the plate is only held on by four screws, it is a tight fit and very difficult to remove. A stiff wire hook inserted into one of the screw holes facilitated teasing the plate loose. This revealed the water pump and fittings.


This brings up my question - where is the input port for the pump so that I can pump anti-freeze through the system when winterizing? Here's a closer view of the pump.


Just to the right of the pump housing is a transparent fitting that does unscrew. Is that where antifreeze can be drawn into the system? Also what should be done with the valve at the right side?

Since I didn't want to go through all the same hassle of removing the plate I made a modification that will make the process easier. This involved attaching a short piece of strap (shown below) that is used to pull the plate out.

You can see how I rasped out a slight passage for the strap to fold over the top. This was necessary since the plate is such  a tight fit. The next photo shows the back side of the plate and how the strap is attached.


The next view shows the plate in place with the strap ready to help access the pump for winterizing.



That's the little modification to our Rpod 171. Back to my question - does anyone know how to connect to the pump on the Rpod 171 for drawing in the antifreeze?




Russ
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2016 at 9:05am
If it has a winterizing kit installed, then on the input side, there should be a valve which will lead to a stub section of hose. One needs to change that valve to draw from an antifreeze bottle and change it back to draw from the fresh water tank. When we picked up our 179, either the factory or more likely the dealer had winterized the R-Pod. The switch was left in the position to draw from the antifreeze bottle. This was not shown or explained during the walk-through. We needed to get it ready to travel, so I filled the fresh water tank and turned the pump on. Nothing was coming out. If I shut the tap, it built up air pressure. I finally took up the mattress and bed platform boards so I could get to the water pump since I really could not reach it through the water heater access panel. It was then that I saw the valve and stub hose. Once I switched that over, everything worked quite well.

I don't know if your 171 has a winterizing kit installed, but if it does, look for a stub hose and a valve.
StephenH
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2016 at 12:37pm
In your second ginormous picture there is a 3 way valve, right of the pump, with a hose leading into the prefilter.. One of the other hoses coming off from that valve goes "nowhere".. that's the valve and hose you use to suck up antifreeze.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2016 at 3:26pm
OR, you might want to use compressed air to blow out your water lines.  I went the traditonal pink antifreeze route the first year we owned our 177 back in 2011.  Since then I have used compressed air with no problems.  Takes about 1 minute, put your airgun into the short hose section furpod mentioned above.  Turn on the air, and then open your outlets one at a time until only air comes out; don't forget the toilet.  As already mentioned, takes about 1 minute once you begin to blow out.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2016 at 5:04pm
If you use compressed air, only use about 40lbs of pressure. I am embarrassed to say how I learned that.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2016 at 2:57am
Originally posted by furpod

In your second ginormous picture there is a 3 way valve, right of the pump, with a hose leading into the prefilter.. One of the other hoses coming off from that valve goes "nowhere".. that's the valve and hose you use to suck up antifreeze.

Thanks for the reply, Furpod. I did check out the hose coming off the left side of that valve. And it did indeed go nowhere. I pulled it all the way out and it gives enough length to go into a gallon jug of antifreeze. I guess the clear fitting between the pump and the valve is a sight tube to show the pink antifreeze being drawn into the pump. The straight ahead hose at the same valve goes into the top of the fresh water tank. So now I know a bit more about the process of winterizing. Thanks again.
Russ
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2016 at 3:02am
Originally posted by jato

OR, you might want to use compressed air to blow out your water lines.  I went the traditonal pink antifreeze route the first year we owned our 177 back in 2011.  Since then I have used compressed air with no problems.  Takes about 1 minute, put your airgun into the short hose section furpod mentioned above.  Turn on the air, and then open your outlets one at a time until only air comes out; don't forget the toilet.  As already mentioned, takes about 1 minute once you begin to blow out.  

Thanks for the information. I may blow out the lines and also do the antifreeze pump through as well. While it doesn't get extremely cold on the Oregon coast, there are unusual circumstances. So I'd rather be prepared for whatever comes. Also the warning from John in Idaho to ensure the air pressure isn't too high is a point well taken.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2016 at 3:10am
Originally posted by StephenH

If it has a winterizing kit installed, then on the input side, there should be a valve which will lead to a stub section of hose. One needs to change that valve to draw from an antifreeze bottle and change it back to draw from the fresh water tank. When we picked up our 179, either the factory or more likely the dealer had winterized the R-Pod. The switch was left in the position to draw from the antifreeze bottle. This was not shown or explained during the walk-through. We needed to get it ready to travel, so I filled the fresh water tank and turned the pump on. Nothing was coming out. If I shut the tap, it built up air pressure. I finally took up the mattress and bed platform boards so I could get to the water pump since I really could not reach it through the water heater access panel. It was then that I saw the valve and stub hose. Once I switched that over, everything worked quite well.
I don't know if your 171 has a winterizing kit installed, but if it does, look for a stub hose and a valve.

Thanks Stephen. I found it as you described. I now have the water heater drained and in the bypass mode. I don't want the 50 lbs. extra weight of hot water. I've put a tag on the water heater electric switch warning of the drained tank. If we go camping in the colder months I may refill and get out of bypass mode.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2016 at 10:54am
Originally posted by Rustler

Originally posted by furpod

In your second ginormous picture there is a 3 way valve, right of the pump, with a hose leading into the prefilter.. One of the other hoses coming off from that valve goes "nowhere".. that's the valve and hose you use to suck up antifreeze.

Thanks for the reply, Furpod. I did check out the hose coming off the left side of that valve. And it did indeed go nowhere. I pulled it all the way out and it gives enough length to go into a gallon jug of antifreeze. I guess the clear fitting between the pump and the valve is a sight tube to show the pink antifreeze being drawn into the pump. The straight ahead hose at the same valve goes into the top of the fresh water tank. So now I know a bit more about the process of winterizing. Thanks again.
 
The clear fitting is a filter, the clear part screws off and has a wire basket inside. I have had debris in mine once or twice, left over from the plumbing instal I am sure.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2016 at 3:33pm
My March 2014 171 has the pump under the bed. 

Amazing how FR switches things around, and a cautionary note to all of us who try to describe our own rpods for the benefit of others.
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