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techntrek
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Topic: Fresh Water Tank Winterize Posted: 09 Oct 2014 at 1:53pm |
Welcome. As mentioned, the bypass valves will be on the rear of your water heater. Locate the WH on the outside of the pod (large metal grate) and then you'll know where to look for it inside. I wouldn't worry over the anode rod. It may not be shot, they can be hardy. After 4 years I replaced mine even though it was barely worn. Even if you need a new one they are cheap.
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wildfire305
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Posted: 09 Oct 2014 at 1:07pm |
Gotta get that antifreeze out of the water heater before it destroys the anode. Or buy a new one anyway because it is probably already ruined.
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Podster
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Posted: 09 Oct 2014 at 1:02pm |
What Year & Model R Pod do you have? This will help us help you locate your Hot Water Heater bypass...
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Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)
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heyfly
Newbie
Joined: 18 Jul 2014
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Posted: 09 Oct 2014 at 12:43pm |
In trying to follow instructions on winterization I only found a valve that allows antifreeze to be sucked in. There are no other bypass valves that I found. Two gallons of antifreeze went into the hot water tank and it's asking for more. Looks like more parts/valves are needed.
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techntrek
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Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 2:45pm |
I certainly don't know everything, please do challenge!
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Podster
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Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 2:13pm |
Understood, looking back over the post I can see how it could be construed as a challenge, but that's not the case at all. It's apparent by your creds and your postings that you know your stuff. Being a new podder, I'm reading all of the manuals cover to to cover and when I see something related to a topic, I'm overcome by a compelling desire to share it.
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techntrek
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Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 1:42pm |
I understand, just trying to keep people from doing a lot of extra work when it isn't necessary. I recently skimmed through the "owners manual" that came with my FR Salem. I just kept shaking my head at some of the stuff FR was officially telling you to do... like fill the fresh water tank with antifreeze. Sorry if I was a bit forceful, just understand that every single year we get new owners here that literally spend hours arguing in circles about why they don't need to use antifreeze, or follow step X on the list, or do Y, when they could have just spent the 20 minutes following "the list" and done it all in far less time. I don't know why winterization is such a charged topic, lol. One year there was someone who had circled around the issue, arguing he only blew out the lines for years because he was in a marginal-freeze area. Came back eventually saying his sink valves froze and burst... he'll use antifreeze from now on. I don't remember if that was here or on another board I frequent. I'll see if I can find it.
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Podster
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Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 12:27pm |
Tech, I have no doubt that your procedures are sound and will prevent damage. The information posted is merely a factual alternative.
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techntrek
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Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 11:57am |
Again, if you use the winterization valve/pickup line (I'm not talking about the bypass valves on the water heater) the pump will be full of antifreeze, so there is no need to disassemble anything. I've been doing winterizations for many years, with campers exposed to temps as low as -10 F, and I"ve never had a damaged water line, water heater, water pump, water tank, or valve. The winterization instructions posted on this site are the culmination of many people's input, and they don't include disassembling the pump. Trust me! ![Cool Cool](smileys/smiley16.gif)
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Podster
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Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 11:31am |
Originally posted by wildfire305
Gotcha. What about the little strainer on the pump? |
Here is the winterizing procedure straight from the Pentair Shurflo pump manual.
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Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)
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