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Topic ClosedFridge: Propane or Battery while Towing

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moseyman View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Fridge: Propane or Battery while Towing
    Posted: 15 Jul 2017 at 6:12am
Thank you all for weighing in.
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Moseyman & Miss Izzy

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lostagain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2017 at 3:57pm
I just put in a new fridge and didn't bother connecting the DC circuit for the heating element.  The Norcold wiring instructions tell you to run 8 or 10 awg from the fridge to the TV battery and then a third "D+" conductor from the fridge to the alternator (to give a signal that the engine is running).  This was waaaay to much work and it's so much simpler to run on propane.  Now I'm set up for propane and AC and I'm probably never going to hook up the DC heater element.  The AC and propane keeps it really cold even with desert heat.  

The only thing I may look into is to add a pancake fan or 2 to improve the air circulation across the heat exchanger.  It gets hot and noticeably heats up the trailer interior; fine in the winter, but when it's 100+ outside and no AC is available, one can confuse the pod with an commercial oven.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2017 at 12:06pm
The heat sources are roughly the same in energy output, the problem is the voltage drop on DC, as mentioned, which reduces the DC heater's output.  When we had our pod I never used the 12 volt mode.  Our current camper doesn't even have 12 volt mode.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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TheBum View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2017 at 11:46am
At first, I ran the fridge on 12V while traveling, but I changed over to propane after one of these topics was beat to death. Propane is so much more efficient than AC or DC when it comes to a device that relies on heat to operate.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2017 at 8:07am
I have never used the propane option in my 2015 178.  Have always ran on battery and switched to electric at the campsite.  Should I be checking my RV Battery?  We do not boondoggle so have never had to run my RV off of the battery.  My TV is a 2014 Ford Explorer Limited with tow package.

Thanks for you help.

Irish Tom
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2017 at 3:32am
I run mine on DC while I'm traveling.  It's something of a nuisance as if we stop for any extended period of time I have to remember to jump in the trailer and switch to LP, but it's what I do...

I've got a Victron battery monitor with a shunt wired inline for actual power measurement in and out of the batteries.  According to it, I have enough juice that the batteries still get a decent charge.  My wiring harness is 10 gauge front to back in the TV.  In hind sight, since I had to pull wire wire front to back for the bargman, I should have bumper it up a couple thicknesses.

Until I had the battery meter, I always ran on LP, mostly because there's a bunch of threads like this one suggesting it won't work.Tongue  Your mileage may vary based on wiring, and alternator as others have stated.
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2017 at 8:38pm
In agreement with the above posters.  I have only used the battery option once in 6+ years on my 177.  It toasted my deep cycle 12v battery in less than 12 hours; took it right down to zero. Since we dry camp a lot we normally keep our fridge on propane.  Once in a while if we do go to a campground that has electric we switch over, use their power instead of our propane. 
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2017 at 7:37pm
This is a hot topic and people have strong opinions. If you know your alternator is up to it and the wire to your Bargman is at least 10 gauge, you might be okay.  You still have to remember  to switch to 120v or propane if you stop for very long.  Without a hot alternator keeping them charged the fridge will run down your battery or batteries pretty quickly.

Some people think running on propane while driving is a safety issue.  Others, not so much,  I don't think there is a lot of evidence for safety issues.  I run the fridge on propane while on the road, and so do a lot of other folks.

I'm pretty sure propane will do a better job than 12v of keeping the fridge cold.

TT


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voisj View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2017 at 7:27pm
The 12 volt option should almost never be used, IMHO. Propane is very efficient and a tank of propane will last a month (maybe 2) just cooling the fridge. The fridge will kill the batteries in 24 hours on 12v.
My F150 will power the fridge while towing but not charge up the batteries at the same time.
John
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2017 at 7:25pm
It's not a question of efficiency. It's a problem with the limited charging capability of most tow vehicles. Most vehicles limit the voltage to less than 14 volts. The charging wire to the 7 pin Bargman is also only #10 or #12. The combination results in the TV being unable to charge the battery and run the fridge on DC simultaneously. The solution is to run the fridge on propane and let the TV maintain the battery charge. IMO running the fridge on DC is never a good idea. Note that larger RV refrigerators don't even have a DC option. It's propane or shore power. Running on propane on the road is perfectly safe and most RVers do it. 
Charlie
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
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