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Topic ClosedReplacing 177 3-way fridge with compressor fridge
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Subzilla View Drop Down
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Location: Concord, NC
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Posts: 302 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Replacing 177 3-way fridge with compressor fridge
    Posted: 02 May 2018 at 7:07am
Dave, that same link I posted has the 2 fan kit. Just do a search on the web or enay for "rv fridge 2 fan kit". Lots if results. Most of them include the heat sensor. Very easy install.
Mark
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2017 RP 179 "Podzilla"
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Posts: 1407 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2018 at 6:41pm
I think the consumption specs on the TruckFridges are supposed to be in watt-hours, not watts/hour. Watts/hour is a nonsensical measure because watts are already time dependent.

The 130 appears to be similar in size to the R-Pod fridges. Its consumption of 24 watt-hours works out to nearly 30 hours of runtime on a 115 AH battery when taken down to 50% capacity. That's not too bad.
Alan
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Posts: 592 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2018 at 5:40pm
Originally posted by Subzilla

Does better in the 179??  Don't think so....been frustrated with this from the very start.  I've already added the "2 fan kit" that can found on Ebay and other websites.  Put both of them right at the upper vent to exhaust the hot air.  Tested it a few weeks ago on our one camping trip but couldn't get conclusive results.  I think I was expecting a miracle.  The kit came with a temp sensor which kept them running most of the day and I could definitely feel the hot air.  

This website offers the baffle for $15 ( https://rvcoolingunit.com/Dometic-addon-Flow-Baffle-for-better-cooling-P2420508.aspx ) .  I just purchased a piece of thin sheet metal (roofing flashing) to make my own but haven't installed or tested it yet. 


Both these mods are interesting, indeed. Could you post a link as to where you found this two fan kit on ebay or other websites?

Thanks!
Dave & Marlene J with Zoey the
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Posts: 6297 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2018 at 4:07pm
There is a thin plywood baffle in there already. It is possible that it is too small to close the space off and I can try to make it larger so it forces more air over the fins. However, I have my doubts that it would be of much use, especially given Mark's like experience.

What would probably have made it work better is if the refrigerator were in a place where the top vent could have been through the roof instead of the slide-out wall. That would likely have provided much better ventilation.
StephenH
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Posts: 347 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2018 at 3:44pm
I put two computer fans on my 3-way fridge to increase air flow through the fins, installed plastic panels to channel flow through the fins, and put a fan inside the fridge to circulate "cold" air.  None of these things really made the absorption fridge in my truck camper work any better.

So I bought a compressor fridge to replace the 3-way absorption fridge and have been happy ever since.
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Subzilla View Drop Down
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Posts: 302 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2018 at 2:48pm
Does better in the 179??  Don't think so....been frustrated with this from the very start.  I've already added the "2 fan kit" that can found on Ebay and other websites.  Put both of them right at the upper vent to exhaust the hot air.  Tested it a few weeks ago on our one camping trip but couldn't get conclusive results.  I think I was expecting a miracle.  The kit came with a temp sensor which kept them running most of the day and I could definitely feel the hot air.  

One thing, Stephen, about improving the ventilation....combing through the many RV fridge complaints on the web, I found another possible solution or improvement.  There is a theory that one can have too much space in the area behind the fridge which allows air to move past the condenser fins and not through them.  Folks out there have installed a deflector baffle to direct moving air "directly" through these fins.  Do a search.   This website offers the baffle for $15 ( https://rvcoolingunit.com/Dometic-addon-Flow-Baffle-for-better-cooling-P2420508.aspx ) .  I just purchased a piece of thin sheet metal (roofing flashing) to make my own but haven't installed or tested it yet.  I haven't seen any mention of this on this forum so I wanted to test it myself before I voiced an opinion about it.   Would love to hear other's thoughts on this.  
Mark
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Posts: 1407 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2018 at 2:18pm
It's possible that the fridge does better in the 179 and other models with the fridge in the slide. It's also possible that your outside vent fan isn't working. Have you checked it?
Alan
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Posts: 6297 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2018 at 1:57pm
Thanks. It means that there is a viable alternative to the absorption refrigerator that has been less than stellar in performance. I have an indoor/outdoor thermometer installed with the sensor for the outdoor temp inside the refrigerator. I have seen the temps inside go up as high as the 50's in hot weather, even though the setting was 5 bars and we weren't opening it.

I will try to see if I can improve the ventilation of the space behind the refrigerator to see if that will help.
StephenH
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Posts: 1407 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2018 at 11:08am
Thus far, the 3-way has done well for us. If we crank it up to 5 bars, it keeps the contents pretty cold. We done camping in 90+ degree weather.
Alan
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Posts: 68 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2018 at 10:08am
Originally posted by StephenH

Yes, I would like to know that also. I have been not very happy with the performance (or lack thereof) of our 3-way Dometic. However, propane power has been the best alternative for us since we do stay in places with no shore power available. The first time I tried to run the refrigerator on 12V, our dual 6V batteries didn't even last the night and we were awakened by a beeping refrigerator. At least it warned us before totally running the batteries down. I would not want to switch to one with a Danfoss compressor unless I were sure it would be able to go for at least three days in hot weather without shore power.

You are much more likely to be able to last the 3 days with the danfoss fridge.  Power draw of course is variable depending on ambient temp, how much your in and out of it, if it's in direct sun, what temp you set it to, etc.  But the general consensus is a unit with one compartment (they are offered with 2 compartments that can be set at different temps for fridge/freezer action) set to normal fridge temps will draw 1-2 amps per hour.  So, figure out the usable amp-hour capacity of your battery bank and do a little math and you should have a reasonable expectation of days use without recharging.
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