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Tom A View Drop Down
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Joined: 04 May 2018
Location: Evanston, IL
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Posts: 70 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Newbie questions
    Posted: 06 May 2018 at 8:38pm
Originally posted by Ben Herman

Originally posted by Leo B

You're correct on that switch in the water heater compartment. You just need to make sure there is water in the tank when you use the WH connected to shore power or it will blow the heater element inside the tank.

Another newbie here with a follow-up question - do you have to flip the switch each time you go between shore and lp for the water heater? If so, I definitely want to move the switch. Getting under the bed each time seems like a real pain in the butt 

The second switch on the water heater itself is not under the bed on my Rp-190.  I access the water heater outside with a flip down door.  That second switch is out there.
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jato View Drop Down
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Posts: 3257 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2018 at 7:12pm
If you normally dry camp, just leave the switch off in the water heater compartment and turn the rocker inside the camper for the LP heater in the on position.  Reverse that if you normally camp using 110 shore power.  It doesn't hurt anything (as long as you have water in the HW tank) if you leave the switch in the water heater compartment "on" even though you are dry camping and using propane to heat your water.  If using 110 shore power you can shorten the time it takes to recharge the hot water by having both switches in the on position.  
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Ben Herman View Drop Down
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Joined: 26 Apr 2018
Location: Gr Junction, CO
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Posts: 355 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2018 at 7:05pm
Originally posted by Leo B

You're correct on that switch in the water heater compartment. You just need to make sure there is water in the tank when you use the WH connected to shore power or it will blow the heater element inside the tank.

Another newbie here with a follow-up question - do you have to flip the switch each time you go between shore and lp for the water heater? If so, I definitely want to move the switch. Getting under the bed each time seems like a real pain in the butt 
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Leo B View Drop Down
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Joined: 13 Jan 2012
Location: Lyndonville, VT
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Posts: 4517 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2018 at 6:29pm
You're correct on that switch in the water heater compartment. You just need to make sure there is water in the tank when you use the WH connected to shore power or it will blow the heater element inside the tank.
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Tom A View Drop Down
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Posts: 70 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2018 at 5:56pm
As far as the water heater is concerned, I did use the On/Off switch on the bathroom wall.  When nothing happened I looked in the tank compartment and found another, unlabeled rocker switch down in the corner and flipped that-- got hot water right away and I assume that was from shore line electric power.

Thanks folks.
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Ben Herman View Drop Down
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Joined: 26 Apr 2018
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Posts: 355 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2018 at 5:54pm
Originally posted by Tom A

Originally posted by Ben Herman

I use sheetrock wall anchors, the ones that look like this: 


When using these in sheetrock, you just hammer them in to start them. However the Rpod wall is a thin plywood veneer over foam, so I predrill a small (like 1/4") hole before  carefully driving these in with a screwdriver. Suggest just using a hand screwdriver, not power - it'd be too easy to drive these in too deep. Also be careful not to drill the hole deeper than 1 inch. Others on the forum have previously mentioned drilling too deep, and going through the wall. 

Thanks, I have used those anchors successfully in sheetrock walls, that's a good idea.  But, are you talking about exterior walls?

I still don't know how thick the inner partition walls are (bathroom).

yes, exterior walls. Not sure how thick the interior walls are (and cannot get out to TT right now) but should be fairly easy to tell by looking at the bathroom door area. Try a search on this forum, I would imagine something'll come up...
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Tom A View Drop Down
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Posts: 70 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2018 at 5:51pm
Originally posted by Ben Herman

I use sheetrock wall anchors, the ones that look like this: 


When using these in sheetrock, you just hammer them in to start them. However the Rpod wall is a thin plywood veneer over foam, so I predrill a small (like 1/4") hole before  carefully driving these in with a screwdriver. Suggest just using a hand screwdriver, not power - it'd be too easy to drive these in too deep. Also be careful not to drill the hole deeper than 1 inch. Others on the forum have previously mentioned drilling too deep, and going through the wall. 

Thanks, I have used those anchors successfully in sheetrock walls, that's a good idea.  But, are you talking about exterior walls?

I still don't know how thick the inner partition walls are (bathroom).
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Ben Herman View Drop Down
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Joined: 26 Apr 2018
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Posts: 355 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2018 at 5:00pm
I use sheetrock wall anchors, the ones that look like this: 


When using these in sheetrock, you just hammer them in to start them. However the Rpod wall is a thin plywood veneer over foam, so I predrill a small (like 1/4") hole before  carefully driving these in with a screwdriver. Suggest just using a hand screwdriver, not power - it'd be too easy to drive these in too deep. Also be careful not to drill the hole deeper than 1 inch. Others on the forum have previously mentioned drilling too deep, and going through the wall. 
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voisj View Drop Down
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Posts: 471 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2018 at 4:55pm
Dew lines,
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mcarter View Drop Down
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Joined: 07 Apr 2016
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Posts: 3419 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2018 at 4:12pm
Tom A,

The interweb is the best source of info on how to use your water heater on propane., recommend you start compiling an info book and copy print the various systems and how they work and how to operate. I have a 3" binder of info I keep with Pod. You will need it as issues arise.

Pods don't have studs per say, they have aluminum framing, mostly around windows and door. You can use dew lines but hard to extrapolate from outside to inside. Best to buy a good stud finder that will locate metal and electrical. I have used a very small drill bit if in doubt, one I could easily hide any wall damage. Granted tee dew lines are very prevalent on outside walls.

Lastly - I wouldn't use anything over 1" on the walls - anywhere.
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