Lithium Battery install ?

Now, I have read some pretty good arguments that there can be logic to chaos.. One of those believers wired my trailer! What a rat's nest of wires! 

Worst are these two wires.. If anyone can identify, please do..

This one comes out of the DC side of the panel box. End is flatten like it was connected to something..

This one looks like it comes out of that red whatever (some sort of fused splice I think) but it actually passes under that and runs back into the abyss of wires.. Again, flatten end like it was connected somewhere.

Next is what I believe to be the Converter charger return. And yet another of those auto breakers hidden away never to be found by the average consumer.. 

In that last picture you see two wires on a side and the single that is running the the panel box. I need to ring both these out, but I think this is the 7 pin and the battery cable meeting up. If this is so, it explains another fuse here before the panel. And if indeed so, that makes the DC side 30amp max, at least from TV or battery. 

Lastly, I was hoping to find the Converter/charger was a separate unit from the panel. Not going to be that easy.. It's integrated. I'll read some more on the repair to the WFCO that another member (here?) posted and possibly reach out to see if a switch can be installed. A bit more time required on this part.

Most important right now is if anyone can identify those loose wires?

Current transformer donuts ( CT's) work fine for ac circuits because their magnetic fields are continuously varying in a known way. But they can't measure the static magnetic fields in dc circuits. Hall effect sensors work on a different principle, are much more fussy, and are sensitive to external stray magnetic fields.  That's why a simple current shunt is much more reliable for dc measurements.

I don't think you've missed anything other than I suggest you get a good understanding of what the BMS in your Li battery does and doesn't do. It needs as a minimum to do cell balancing. Some also provide a backup max voltage cutoff, and some also have a thermal cutoff. If yours doesn't have those features, depending on your risk tolerance you might want to add them externally, Victron for one has a product that does that.  Consider that you will be sleeping on top of this battery which could catch fire if it ever gets seriously overcharged...unlikely but not impossible...

Just a couple of suggestions. 

If you place your solar charge controller in the same area then you'll have all your power electronics in one place. 

If you add a battery monitor that actually clocks amphours in and out you will have a way to monitor true battery state of charge on that expensive Li battery to replace the crappy lights that won't work for Li anyway. if you do, get one that uses an actual inline current shunt not a hall effect donut, those drift a lot. 

This is the mess underneath with the splices and auto fuses.

Top and right top is the 7 pin line from the TV to the splices above.

This is the 12vdc line from the 7pin 

Here the same line heads back towards the panel. Those two Red lines above are returns.

The two return reds now connect to the auto fuse.

Out the other side of the auto fuse and onward to the battery.

.  

Now for the decision of where to tap in.. 

To keep in mind here.. I'm going to dis-connect the Converter/Charger, it will not longer be part of the system. With that said, I still believe I can tap into the 7 pin splice. If so, this could be very easy as I would only need to re-route the battery cables and connect up the lithium battery. 

Thoughts???