RV house battery applications are cycling applications, you need deep cycle batteries. Doesn't matter if you're charging them from solar, a generator, or from shore power after spending a few days boon docking. The only time you could consider using an SLI (starter, lights, ignition) automotive battery that isn't designed for cycling is if you are always connected to short power while camping and don't run your fridge on electric while towing. In that case it doesn't matter what battery you use.
No lead acid batteries should be taken below 50% state of charge on a regular basis, it will significantly shorten their useful life. That includes deep cycle batteries. As for AGM (absorbed glass mat) or gel batteries (generally known as valve regulated batteries, no lead acid batteries are actually "sealed") you should consider those if you can't trust yourself to regularly (at least monthly) check the water level in standard flooded batteries and add distilled water if needed. If you can do the checks, then the flooded batteries are your best choice due to lower cost and because you CAN add water to them if they are accidentally overcharged. You can't do that with valve regulated batteries so if they get overcharged (say because your battery charger doesn't reduce voltage when it should (it happens) then they become expensive boat anchors.
If you are boon docking for several days or more most folks find that two 6V golf cart batteries (case size GC2) are the most cost effective choice, assuming your tow vehicle can handle the additional roughly 60-70 lbs of tongue weight.
The very best (and lightest weight) is a lithium ion battery, but they are still pretty expensive and also require that you change your battery charger and, if you want to charge from your two vehicle, add a dc to dc converter to do that.