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Topic ClosedReplacing Rusted anode rod?

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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Replacing Rusted anode rod?
    Posted: 23 May 2021 at 8:39am
Agree on the tank contamination. I said the Navy has probably done work in thus area, didn't look for it. But a quick Google search came up with this NACE publication. It I'm sure would have done useful guidance. Got $79?

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2021 at 7:59am
No matter what penetrating oil one uses, keep in mind that if you drink or wash dishes useing "tank water" you need to be careful not to get oil inside the tank and into the water.  It's not likely that any of it is very good for you to ingest and it probably doesn't taste very good either.  As for the brand, obviously, use what works for you or makes you happy.  

As for the US Navy's testing of penetrating oil, please share with us their data or tell us what they use.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2021 at 10:56pm
PB Blaster works well for us, and yes PU it does have an unforgettable 'odor.'
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2021 at 6:08pm
Originally posted by lostagain


Why don't you do your own experiment with various penetrating oils and tell us which is best.  Maybe you could make a video and post it to YouTube.


Unless someone happened to have a bunch of equally exposed heavily corroded bolts laying around it would take too long to replicate a real world test. The Navy has probably done it, they do lots of long term corrosion testing in various climates.

So I understand why he did it the way he did, he's trying to do an accelerated test. The problem is unless there is actual long term data to support the accelerated testing protocol it's just guesswork.

In this case if we were trying to remove slightly corroded bolts with slightly more torque than was used to install them this would probably be a good test. But we're not, if we were doing that we would just take em off right off and not need penetrants, or heat, or impact drivers.


I'll keep using my PB Blaster, it smells worse than the other ones so it has to be better, right?

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2021 at 2:32pm
The video was kind of interesting, but even he admitted it wasn't very scientific.  I came away with the impression that for practical purposes it doesn't matter all that much which product you use.

Ever since I got a 60v impact wrench, I don't care too much about this kind of stuff anymore.  Now, maybe on something relatively flimsy, like a water heater, I don['t know.  I'm not sure, but it seems like careful use of an impact wrench shouldn't be more likely to cause damage than using a cheater bar.  It is certainly much easier!  Of course it's not a tool everyone has.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2021 at 10:20am
Why don't you do your own experiment with various penetrating oils and tell us which is best.  Maybe you could make a video and post it to YouTube.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2021 at 9:18am
Originally posted by lostagain

According to the "Project Farm" Liquid Wrench seems to be one of the best penetrating oil.
Here's the comparison of different penetrating oils:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs


I don't buy this evaluation at all. First he torqued the nuts to 100 ftlbs. Then he corroded them with some type if oxidizing agent, after which the torque to remove them only went up a few 10s of ftlbs. Then some of the penetrants brought removal torque down below the original tightening torque.
Obviously, the threads didn't get very much corrosion on them. We all know that removal torque on very rusted bolts is much much much higher than the tightening torque was.

He also didn't leave the penetrants on long enough, my experience is that it significantly helps to allow them to remain on there for a day or two.

I've used liquid wrench a lot in the past but PB blaster has if beat by far in my experience in the real world. WD40 is pretty much useless

One result does agree with my experience. The flame wrench works great. And verbal threats are good too.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2021 at 8:52am
If there is any magnesium left on the rod at all its still doing its job. Check it annually. Usually you'll see some rod at the base of the anode before the magnesium toward the tip is consumed. If it looks like that it's still working.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2021 at 7:55am
Thanks for the advice. I went w cheater on the breaker bar, with liquid wrench, not wd40, and it broke loose. Replaced the rod using Teflon tape, all back together now. The one that came out was gone just to the size of a welding rod! Definitely time for a new one! Again, thanks…  love this forum!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2021 at 9:59pm
According to the "Project Farm" Liquid Wrench seems to be one of the best penetrating oil.
Here's the comparison of different penetrating oils:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

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