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campman
Senior Member
Joined: 26 Mar 2021
Location: La Salle, MB
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Posts: 209
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Topic: Switching Converters 2019 190 Posted: 23 Jul 2021 at 7:24am |
+1 to OG's, err...poetry. ;-)
As to the wires, I still would suggest that the extra wires you have coming from your battery run to the spot where it says to place the charge controller. The wires from the jack on your roof would need to be there as well...the installed controller is where they would meet.
Only a DC multimeter, time and some investigation can confirm true purpose. I hope you find out if the previous owner did indeed mess with the wires or, as I am hoping for you, that it is just pre-installed factory wiring!
The quality and manner of the crimps and wiring routing could be an indicator of who did it as well.
Have a great day and hope this helps,
Andy
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Andy and Laurie
'16 F150 5.0 4X4 w/factory tow pkg
'21 RP192
"If the women don't find you handsome...at least let them find you handy!"
Red-Green
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offgrid
Senior Member
Joined: 23 Jul 2018
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Posts: 5290
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Posted: 23 Jul 2021 at 12:52am |
when in doubt, get your multimeter out (I'm a poet and I didn't know it).
Ring out any wires you're uncertain about. You can run a messenger wire back to the meter and check for continuity. You can never be sure otherwise what goofy thing someone might have done...
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold
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wb0ldj
Newbie
Joined: 25 Jun 2021
Location: St. Louis, MO
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 11
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Posted: 22 Jul 2021 at 10:27pm |
I don't think the extra wires attached to the battery posts have anything to do with the "solar ready" feature of the trailer. The batteries (2 X GC 6V) are in battery boxes setting in a tray on the trailer's A-frame, next to the propane tanks. The "solar ready" jack is on the roof at the driver's side rear of the trailer. Somewhere I've heard that the cables from the "solar ready" jacks on the roof go down to the wall next to the entry door where the TV, stereo and DVD player are located. This is above the converter location. There is a decal where you are supposed to cut a hole in the wall for the charge controller.
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Mike
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JR
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Joined: 31 Aug 2018
Location: Manistee, MI
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Posts: 364
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Posted: 22 Jul 2021 at 6:24pm |
+1 to campman I would be of the opinion that those #8 red and black wires from the battery go to the "solar ready" plug mounted on the outside rear corner of the trailer. Also the black (neg) wire will be using the trailer frame for the majority of the run. Hope this helps
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Jay
179/2019
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campman
Senior Member
Joined: 26 Mar 2021
Location: La Salle, MB
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 209
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Posted: 22 Jul 2021 at 5:18pm |
Good day, interesting question you pose regarding the wires and their usage. Only tracing the wires will actually give you the right answer.
I am going to suggest another possibility. The extra wires to your battery, could they be for your "Solar Ready" system? They do some pre-wiring but you have to pay for the charge controller and solar panel as well as install/connect them for it to actually charge your 12 volt batteries.
There have been other threads here discussing how some of the electrical plugs for certain brand name systems are reversed to try and force you to buy their system.
Good luck,
Andy
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Andy and Laurie
'16 F150 5.0 4X4 w/factory tow pkg
'21 RP192
"If the women don't find you handsome...at least let them find you handy!"
Red-Green
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wb0ldj
Newbie
Joined: 25 Jun 2021
Location: St. Louis, MO
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 11
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Posted: 22 Jul 2021 at 4:58pm |
I'm switching the WFCO 8735P converter on my RPOD 190 for a Progressive Dynamics 4135KW2B. The WFCO converter has DC fuse # 6 (30A) marked as "Battery/ Slideout" on the cover. There's only one wire connected to the wire from fuse #6, and it's the heavy #8 red wire from the battery. The heavy white (-) wire from the converter is connected to the DC (-) bus, along with the #8 black wire from the battery. I've noticed an additional #10 red wire connected to the battery (+) post, and an additional #10 black wire connected to the battery (-) post. Neither of these wires end up in the space behind the converter.
Is it possible that these two #10 wires have been run directly (unfused?) to the slideout motor(s), rather than running through fuse # 6 like it should (I'm the second owner of this trailer, so I don't know its history)?
I haven't gotten underneath and dug into the wiring yet, but I'm very suspicious that something like this has happened.
FWIW, I'm replacing the #8 red/black wire from the battery to the converter with #2 welding cable to eliminate voltage drop and enable the converter to stay in boost mode longer.
Thanks for any info any of you have about this issue!
Mike Harmon
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Mike
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