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Winterizing question

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lostagain View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote lostagain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Winterizing question
    Posted: 01 Nov 2021 at 7:49pm
Jato, I did that and there was still enough residual water in the valve that when it froze, it broke the valve housing causing the leak.  And, I found it on a Saturday evening with no RV parts stores available at least until the next Monday.  We managed with a jug of water, though.

Subee, there is a water line to the toilet valve that you should be able to see.  It's kind of like the water supply lines to a sink, only shorter.  Some have convenient wings on the nut that you can grab and unscrew the line.  Just be sure to have some rags available in case any water leaks out, unless, of course, you have a wet bath.  My plan is to disconnect the supply line and blow some air through the open valve (held open by pushing the pedal down or, in some models, pulling the lever forward.  But, as with any plastic plumbing stuff, be really careful not to cross-thread it and don't over tighten the fittings.




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Subee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Subee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2021 at 9:41am
Cool beans. Got it!!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pod_Geek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2021 at 9:39am
Originally posted by jato

Simply put ... you don't.  If using compressed air open the foot valve or lever as if you were flushing to evacuate all air in the line and do this a couple times to verify all water is out....

Yup...always works for us.
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jato View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2021 at 8:31am
Simply put ... you don't.  If using compressed air open the foot valve or lever as if you were flushing to evacuate all air in the line and do this a couple times to verify all water is out.  If you are using the suction method using RV antifreeze do the same as above and keep line open until you see the pink stuff coming out of the line and running into the toilet.  Leave an ounce of antifreeze on top of the lid as well to keep the seal moist throughout the winter.  If you don't do this last step there is a good chance the seal will dry and crack and you will have to replace it come spring.
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Subee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Subee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2021 at 7:20am
Newbie here, we knew most of  the other stuff on winterizing, but not sure how to disconnect the water line at the toilet valve. Would you mind explaining what you did?  We don't want to miss anything. 
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lostagain View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote lostagain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2021 at 5:49am
Be sure to pay special attention to draining the toilet valve.  I thought I had everything blown out well, but when I took my first trip after winter I found the valve had cracked and was leaking.  It doesn't hurt to disconnect the water line at the valve and blow air through the valve while you hold it open.  
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Post Options Post Options   Quote steveterrynpoppy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2021 at 5:30am
FYI...we drained everything (low points, faucets, toilet, hot water tank) and then used the air compressor.  I'd say we got a few teaspoons of H2O out of the low point drain w the air compressor.  Probably not enough to cause an issue?   Then we ran antifreeze throughout.  
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2021 at 4:33pm
OG you make a valid point and I do plan on trying this out next spring.  I will de-winterize everything and fill up HW tank and get air out of system.  Next, I will open all faucets and open the low point drains as well as open the valve for the toilet.  After all is 'supposedly drained' I will hook up the air gun and blow out to see how much, if any water comes out.  I think before using compressed air I will also pull the anode out of the HW tank and turn the valves to winterization again to see if that drains as well. 

If I didn't have it already winterized and ready for winter I would do it now, but being a cheapskate I would have to use an additional 16 oz. RV antifreeze to get it ready for bed again, don't want to break the bank!LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Quote steveterrynpoppy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2021 at 3:45pm
Thank you all!  We are new owners...and really want to take no chances with our new pod, so we'll blow out the lines and add antifreeze.  Can't hurt.

I also found this post from techntrek (in 2014):

 An alternative for the water heater is to open the low point drains and then open the overpressure valve (near the top of the water heater, on the outside).  It takes about 10 minutes, but it works.

I feel better now, reassured our hot water heater is drained.  So much good info in these pages.  So glad to have this resource!   Maybe someday we'll actually help someone else! LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2021 at 10:57am
Jato, I have no problem with either winterizing approach. Both done right work fine, done wrong you can get freeze damage either way. I'm just curious if gravity draining alone would work without either antifreeze or air. With a well designed water system where all lines slope downhill it ought to. Seasonal vacation homes are often winterized that way.   
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