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Topic ClosedElectrical Issue and Vehicle Battery Charge

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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Electrical Issue and Vehicle Battery Charge
    Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 7:04pm
Absolutely! Prevents tow vehicle dead battery problems.
Charlie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 12:53pm
Thanks, I'm excited to roll with propane mode for the next trip. Do you think that adding the relay in the charge line from the TV is a good idea to prevent a dead TV battery?

Dylan
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 9:59pm
The reason everyone says to use propane mode is most factory and aftermarket-installed charge lines are 12 gauge wire, which can't support the load of the fridge on DC mode.  Add in a low battery after a long weekend and you've already lost the battle (and your food).

That said, the blowing fuses indicate you may have larger wire already although that contradicts your experience with the batteries being discharged.

The only problem with figuring out the blowing fuses is only more-expensive meters will show inrush current.  I would say first step is to just use propane mode (and AC mode at home and at campsites where you have hookups) to see if the blown fuses and drained batteries go away.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 6:45pm
Hi Charlie,

Okay, great! I will check it out as you suggest. I'm handy with fixing hardware but electrical has always intimidated me a bit. Will give it a shot. 

Dylan

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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 6:35pm
Originally posted by d_rose

Hi Charlie,

.............

Unfortunately, the dealership I bought the pod at is about a 4 hour drive away or I would just take it in.

Thanks for any help.

Dylan


Dylan,
I would suggest you invest in a clamp on ammeter and go after it yourself. Very handy device for working on cars and campers. Make sure you get one that measures DC Amps. Sears has a nice one with 40 and 400 Amp scales. With everything off in the camper the current drain on the battery should be 0.1-0.2A. This residual is due to the CO/propane detector, the thermostat, and the fridge control board. Anything much higher is trouble. BTW, this residual will discharge a good battery in a few weeks so you can't leave it unattended with the battery connected. Then try turning on other things like fans, etc and see where it takes you. DON'T run the fridge on 12V. Since you've run the battery down a bunch you may be needing a new one. Get two 6V golfers. The fix for the Ford should be available at any Ford dealer. The fact that it can push >30A is a good thing, but a dead battery can really demand a lot. If the charge line wire size in the Ford can support it, get the dealer to put in a 40A fuse.

Charlie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 5:36pm
Hi Charlie,

Thanks a ton for the info. My TV is 2005 Ford Explorer. I will look in to the relay option, that may solve the issue hopefully. 

I called the dealership that installed the charge line in my Explorer when the fuse first blew. They told me the fuse will blow any time I attempt to plug the trailer in to my Explorer when the pod battery is low. Apparently, the truck will push more than 30 amps only when the pod battery is low (what they told me). 

Unfortunately, the dealership I bought the pod at is about a 4 hour drive away or I would just take it in.

Thanks for any help.

Dylan

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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 4:39pm
First, don't run the fridge on 12V. That will run the battery down and there is no safety issue with traveling on Propane. Second, if the truck does not disconnect the charging line when the engine is off the truck battery will run down while trying to power the trailer. The fix is to install a relay to disconnect that line when shutting off the engine. Most vehicles do, but not all. GM/Chevy is particularly bad on this. 

Blowing a 30A fuse in the truck indicates something amiss in the camper. Most vehicles will only deliver 10A or so unless it's into a dead short. You may have a trailer battery issue too. 





Charlie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 2:33pm
Originally posted by d_rose

Thanks! I'm due for a new truck battery, so will probably replace anyway this fall. The stock pod battery has been drawn down to zero several times, due to the fuse blowing and the TV not recharging the battery while traveling. I assume that's not good for the pod battery?

Dylan

While not ideal, the Pod battery is a Deep Cycle battery and still may have some life in it, however, taking it down to zero charge is not doing it any favors with regards to life expectancy. 

The fridge can drain the battery in about 2 hours on its own just for future reference. 
Chris & Mandy
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 2:23pm
Thanks! I'm due for a new truck battery, so will probably replace anyway this fall. The stock pod battery has been drawn down to zero several times, due to the fuse blowing and the TV not recharging the battery while traveling. I assume that's not good for the pod battery?

Dylan
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 2:16pm
Set it to propane for travel. It's perfectly safe. Most RV refrigerators only have a Propane or Shore Power option. 

It will definitely help your truck battery problem, provided your truck battery is still ok. I would recommend having it tested just for peace of mind.  
Chris & Mandy
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