Another battery/charging sytstem question.

The charger I bought brought the battery up to 100%. We are dry camping now at Emerald Lake State Park in Vermont. If need be, I will hook up the generator's 12V connection and charge the battery that way since there is no 110V power here. We will see if we can go until Friday without needing to charge. Lights, vent fan, and my CPAP will be the main power draws unless it gets chilly and I want to run the heater to take the chill off. I don't think it will be cold enough to bring out the Mr. Heater Portable.

Originally posted by StephenH The PD models I saw when I looked on Amazon were deck mount, not drop-in replacement to fit the WFCO panel. Is there one that fits in place of the WFCO converter?

The one I linked above...

Inteli-Power 55 Amp Converter/Charger
Model #PD4655V replaces these converter sections: Parallax/Magnatek #6355, Parallax #7355, Parallax #7155,
Parallax #8355, WFCO™ #8955

On Amazon


But deck mount isn't a big issue, I used a deck mount in furpod.. it mounted to the slide out tray, had to drill one hole, and I cut the back off the power center with a dremel, no big deal.

Agreed. If you have to replace the converter go Progressive Dynamics. 

I've spent hundreds of dollars on batteries and starters in the past only to find out that a ground wire need to be taken off, wire brushed, and put back on.  Expensive lessons, hard learned, although it almost happened to me again recently. My tractor wouldn't start.  I'd checked the ends of about 7 wires and was pretty sure I needed a new solenoid.  I was putting away my tools to go to the parts store when I realized there was one more terminal I needed to clean. The devil on my shoulder was telling me, "what are the odds?  1 out of 8... just go get the new solenoid." I listened to the angel on my other shoulder and Bingo!, that was it. 

You need to check both ends of all wires.  You're going to have to disconnect at least one end of them anyway to replace the converter/charger.  Familiarize yourself with the job by doing a dry run, cleaning connections as you go.

I don't know what it is, but there must be a way to check the converter/charger with a volt ohm meter  at the unit itself.  As far as testing for continuity, a corroded connection may let enough current through to indicate a closed circuit but not enough to do anything else.  I think you'd need to check for proper voltage at the output of the unit.

How much does a new converter/charger cost anyway?  It seems like someone (Furpod?) said he'd replaced his with something better.  Whoever that was, if you read this, what was it, why was it better, and what did it cost?

TT

It seems to have gone from intermittent to full failure. I bought a Schumacher SC4 15A charger / 3A maintainer from Walmart and have it connected. The charge state now is about 75% according to the charger.