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Topic ClosedPlumbing air pressure test?

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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Plumbing air pressure test?
    Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 7:32pm
Great point brought forward JandL differentiating between hydraulic and air pressure.  I have just finished blowing out irrigation lines on 3 golf courses over the last 3 days and while we maintain 120 - 125 lbs of water pressure in the lines during the summer using the 375 CFM air compressor we may get up to 36 - 38 lbs air pressure in those same lines while blowing out/purging water out of the lines.  When water is purged and air comes out of the sprinkler heads, the sound is something like a jet ready for take-off.  This is especially true at the end when we open a 2" line to let the air out quickly so we can disconnect the hose, this takes about 12-15 minutes.  When the air comes out you better have on some really good ear protection otherwise you will end of going deaf or ruining your hearing, the sound of the air escaping is deafening.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 6:13pm
Always either check CG water pressure and/or use a regulator. I have seen CG pressure as high as 100psi. The Fairview WR-RV55 is a good one in that it permits high flow rate for showers while limiting pressure to 55psi. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 5:11pm
Most use a regulator.  They are inexpensive and easily put in line to the water inlet.  I don't know that they are needed in most campgrounds but they don't hurt.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 4:22pm
Originally posted by mcarter

I have an adjustable water regulator, think most are preset 45-50, which is ok. Those not adjustable are at 45 I think. I maintain my pancake air compressor as close to 30 when doing winterization. That works. I have never air pressurized with all closed. Currently have no water leaks.

Thank you! Good info. Raises a question though...

What is the water pressure at most campgrounds? 

Input from my house will be well over 45.. You know the tank spec's?
Wondering if I should place a regulator on the water inlet. Do plan on a filter there.. Wouldn't be that hard to do..

I realize the tank pump regulates to the onboard plumbing, curious about pressure to the tank and it's rating?  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 4:06pm
I have an adjustable water regulator, think most are preset 45-50, which is ok. Those not adjustable are at 45 I think. I maintain my pancake air compressor as close to 30 when doing winterization. That works. I have never air pressurized with all closed. Currently have no water leaks.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 3:49pm
Thanks folks! Standards are very close to household.

35-45psi is all you require for household, 30psi sounds about right.

If no one had spoken up I was headed for 25psi. Though I still need to get the unit and read the system setting pressure. Typically less that half is sufficient and hold for an hour.

10% loss in that time frame is still fine. As an earlier post stated, there are differences between hydraulic and pneumatic pressures. Our plumbing system is built for hydraulic. So some loss is assumed and it's new, not all seals ave been 'wet' enough for proper sealing.

If pressure drops quickly and goes low fast.. Houston, we got a problem here!


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 11:18am
"I think my pressure regulator I use is rated for 50 psi."

Are you talking about your water pressure regulator? My water pressure regulator is also set to 50 PSI. The safety issue is when you use air to pressure something
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 10:18am
I think my pressure regulator I use is rated for 50 psi. Is that something I should be concerned about? I have plenty of flow.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 10:14am
Be careful when doing an air pressure test

From Charlotte Pipe, Air Testing of Plumbing Piping Systems, Technical Bulletin #15811
“Air testing – of any piping system – is not a system capability issue; it is
a life-safety issue. A pipe segment withstands air pressure in exactly the
same manner as it withstands hydrostatic pressure; the physics don’t
change.
Water is not compressible and cannot store energy through compression,
so under these scenarios nothing threatening will occur. Air is
compressible and will store energy under compression which will release
explosively, possibly throwing shards of pipe, test plugs, fittings or debris.”
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2017 at 8:42am
Jato,

Good to know, I may increase mine a bit, slow going at 30 psi. Everything I read said 30, so I have been using that.
Mike Carter
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