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TEDDY View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 Oct 2017
Location: Arkansas
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Posts: 94 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: CHANNEL HOOKS for AWNINGS
    Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 4:35pm
I ordered the 12.5 mm sail stops - might be an issue because the screws holding the channel onto the camper are not counter-sunk.  That's the reason I had the local welder give me an eighth inch flat on the side of the round plug opposite the hook weld.

When I get the 12.5 mm plastic plugs, I'll try them and let you all know.  If you used the 3/8" sail plugs they would probably fit in the channel and slide past the channel mounting screws. 

A sanding wheel would probably flatten one surface of the plastic plugs to allow them to slide past the channel mounting screws.

I suspect all of these solutions work - I'm not nautical (canoe with sail is as close as I ever got!) - so was not aware of something like the sail plugs - would have saved me the $180 I spend on the stainless  plug/hook, but I'll have them forever......

I'm thinking some bubble gum stuck at the ends of the channel will keep the plugs from sliding out - or maybe an 1/8" bolt slipped into a bored hole at each end .......
Teddy
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Posts: 473 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 5:48pm
Originally posted by TEDDY

I'm thinking some bubble gum stuck at the ends of the channel will keep the plugs from sliding out - or maybe an 1/8" bolt slipped into a bored hole at each end .......

Or two pieces of wood, whittled down to plug the ends, with a loop around each of light rope or string coming from each plug's nearest tarp-corner. Tightening each down with a tautline hitch anchors the corners of the tarp. It works.
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Posts: 471 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2018 at 5:52pm

I Leave My sail slugs attached to the tarp and just feed them in from one end, that way I can pull it out at the front or at the back depending on the Sun or rain Direction. I stand on the step and feed it in and use one of the adjustable tent poles to slide the slugs over, So i don't need a ladder for set up. It takes about 10 minutes to set up. EDIT I just remembered I did try to use 1/2"slugs and ground them down so they would slide pass the screws but then I found the 3/8 and didn't have to bother.
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Posts: 2654 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2018 at 11:36am
You can also replaced the dome-head screws in the keder rail with flat-head equivalents. The top and bottom keder on newer pods is actually 14mm, so anything 1 or 2 mm less than that should work.
bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
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TEDDY View Drop Down
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Posts: 94 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2018 at 1:01pm
The screws holding the rail/channel to the camper body are not counter-sunk into the rail - so the flat-head screw replacement approach might work, or might not - unless you've tried it.
Teddy
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Posts: 2654 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2018 at 2:26pm
Originally posted by TEDDY

The screws holding the rail/channel to the camper body are not counter-sunk into the rail - so the flat-head screw replacement approach might work, or might not - unless you've tried it.
I never knew they weren't counter-sunk. I had read somewhere else that the switch to flat-head screws solved the clearance issue. Welcome to additional information of course.

We haven't gone down this path (yet). I was looking at the screws inside the keder rail, and deduced that the dome-head screws would certainly be an issue.
bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost
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