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Topic ClosedReplacing the propane detector sensor
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codycountry View Drop Down
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Posts: 168 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Replacing the propane detector sensor
    Posted: 03 Aug 2018 at 5:41pm
My propane sensor started beeping without the propane even being turned on, and I discovered that they only last about five years before replacement is required.  It's down at floor level in our 2013 model 177 below and left of the bath.  It is also the one main thing that runs battery's down over time, since it is powered directly from the DC and does not run off of an internal battery like the carbon monoxide and smoke detector's do.
Very simple to replace.  I ordered the exact same model off of Amazon for 59 bucks.  That is key to get the same exact model.
Took off the old one but the wires wouldn't come through the wall due to big factory connectors behind the wall hanging up on the small opening they cut.  So I just  cut the existing wires very long at the back of the faulty unit, stripped them, took the new unit and twisted with the stripped wires I cut, wrapped both with electrical tape, and slid the new working unit back on to the backing plate.  You have to take the backing plate off of the new unit and pitch it if you do it this way, and just use the one already mounted to the wall.  
It took maybe ten minutes.  
It is now working perfectly and is good to go for another five years.   No trip to the dealer and probably an hour's labor charge, required.  Anybody can do this maintenance repair.  
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Keith-N-Dar View Drop Down
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Posts: 1447 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2018 at 6:02pm
If you just twisted and taped the wires you have a high likelyhood of failure.  Splices should be soldered, wire nutted or crimped butt splices.  
Keith-N-Dar
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codycountry View Drop Down
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Posts: 168 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2018 at 6:15pm
Actually I used two of those little plastic wing nut things you twist on, then wrapped each of those and the wires with electrical tape.  Thinking that five years from now it will be easy to replace again without the solder.  Thanks for pointing out my omission.   
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TheBum View Drop Down
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Posts: 1407 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2018 at 11:27am
I got tired of always kicking the detector off the wall, so when ours failed, I bought one of the flush mount ones. I had to do some sawing on the paneling, but it's not difficult: I used the saw blade in my Leatherman Juice. For the wiring, I used crimped butt connectors.
Alan
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Posts: 1447 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2018 at 7:01pm
Originally posted by TheBum

I got tired of always kicking the detector off the wall, so when ours failed, I bought one of the flush mount ones. I had to do some sawing on the paneling, but it's not difficult: I used the saw blade in my Leatherman Juice. For the wiring, I used crimped butt connectors.

Did the same thing.  Very happy with the flush model.

TT
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DavMar View Drop Down
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Posts: 592 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Aug 2018 at 5:31pm
Kind of on subject but on our recent month out on the road I was snoozing in the pod when the wife decided she wanted a glass of wine. In the 180 there is a perfect shelf nook on the left side of the slide out for her to place a box wine carton. Unfortunately the sensor for the Propane/CO2 is located just under it a bit forward near the floor. Well she pours her wine but somehow spilled some on the floor and the next thing I know I'm being rocked awake by the beep, beep, of this alarm. Seems we found out the hard way the fumes of alcohol will set off this alarm! Another thing on this trip we found out will set off this alarm is if your converter dies and the voltage drops to below 6 volts, crazy! I need to figure out what fuse controls this alarm so if I ever need to kill it again I can. 
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Posts: 6326 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Aug 2018 at 10:26pm
Unfortunately, it is hard-wired and does not go through the fuse panel. It has to be to prevent someone from disabling it which would defeat the purpose of having it which is to keep someone from dying from CO poisoning or from going up with a bang if there is a propane leak.
StephenH
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DavMar View Drop Down
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Posts: 592 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 2018 at 3:33pm
Originally posted by StephenH

Unfortunately, it is hard-wired and does not go through the fuse panel. It has to be to prevent someone from disabling it which would defeat the purpose of having it which is to keep someone from dying from CO poisoning or from going up with a bang if there is a propane leak.


That explains why I couldn't find the fuse! Embarrassed

I may just wire in line a SPST toggle switch with it and stuff it back into the wall with the wiring. At least that way you could disable the alarm when you determined there is no Propane or CO2 leak.
Dave & Marlene J with Zoey the
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Posts: 1447 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 2018 at 5:20pm
Originally posted by DavMar

That explains why I couldn't find the fuse! Embarrassed

I may just wire in line a SPST toggle switch with it and stuff it back into the wall with the wiring. At least that way you could disable the alarm when you determined there is no Propane or CO2 leak.

I know it's just sort of a typo, but it's a CO detector.  CO2, carbon dioxide, could suffocate you under almost impossible circumstances.  CO, carbon monoxide, is a deadly poison that can kill you in your sleep very easily.  In my opinion, overriding the always-on feature of these detectors is a very serious safety concern.  It's best to resolve whatever sets it off by opening the doors, cranking up the vent fan, or charging the battery than disabling it and risk forgetting to turn it back on.  You could wake up dead.

Also, as someone else noted, these detectors have expiration dates.  They have to be replaced about every 5 years.

TT
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mcarter View Drop Down
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Posts: 3419 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 2018 at 5:22pm
+1 - Mistake to bypass this safety device.
Mike Carter
2015 178
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