Leveling jacks |
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vandallc
Groupie Joined: 02 May 2010 Location: Charleston, SC Online Status: Offline Posts: 41 |
Topic: Leveling jacks Posted: 05 Oct 2010 at 8:13pm |
I would be interested in the groups thoughts on the leveling jacks. I have found them to be poor. I snagged one on the rear coming out of a parking lot that destroyed that one. I guess that is my bad but I think a more substantial one would have survived the hit. Then later in the trip I had two bend while trying to level the pod side to side. I was not really putting that much pressure on the jack so either they were defective or they are just not up to the task.
Has anyone had similar concerns and if so how have you addressed them? For now I bought a couple of jack stands at Wal Mart for $25 and while not as convenient as the leveling jacks they provide a very stable platform when in place.
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vandallc
2011 177 2003 Lincoln Navigator |
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Kickstart
Senior Member Joined: 20 Sep 2010 Location: Ocean Shores, W Online Status: Offline Posts: 267 |
Posted: 05 Oct 2010 at 10:20pm |
The type of jacks on the current RPods are not known as leveling jacks, but as stabilizing jacks. I haven't noticed in any RPod ads or spec. sheets, but it would really surprize me if Forest River used the term "leveling" to describe them. I think they've changed types on the new Hood River RPods to genuine leveling jacks.
The old standard for using our wimpy type jacks is to use leveling blocks, lumber or whatever under one tire to level the trailer on the low left or right side first. Then use the hitch jack second to level the trailer front to back. Third, just drop the stabilizing jacks without putting a ton of pressure on them.
Having used both leveling and stabilizing jacks, I agree that ours are not too sturdy. Another reason I'm still considering having the 4" lifts to our trailer. If it weren't for my wife's physical limitations on steps, I probably would have it done. We don't boondock much anymore, so I'll probably just trust to luck and hope we don't bottom out.
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Goose
Senior Member Joined: 24 Sep 2010 Location: Arizona Online Status: Offline Posts: 672 |
Posted: 05 Oct 2010 at 11:36pm |
Kickstart has it right for putting down the stablizing jacks. I have found them to be OK as far as taking the shake out of the POD at the end of the day. I carry 17 pounds of wood to level the POD, 2 2x8's 18 inches and 2 2x8's 14 inches long to level the tires, 2 4x4's 8 inches long for the rear jacks and 2 2x8's 8 inches long for the front jacks.
I would recommend that when leaving a gas station or business where the drive to the road has a dip or a rise to come out on an angle so that only one wheel on the POD is in the dip at a time. this will help prevent bottoming out on the rear of the POD, and watch the curbs.
Goose
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Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee
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Butterfly_Lee
Senior Member Joined: 19 Nov 2009 Location: Corpus Christi Online Status: Offline Posts: 131 |
Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 1:02am |
To the best of my knowledge they have always be called stabilizing jacks, which are supposed to stop side to side sway as you move around the pod. My 172 didn't come with front stabilizing jacks and when getting into the bunks the rpod would sway (use 2 ton auto jacks until I found stabilizing jacks I could install). Now I have 2 front and 2 back, which I lower once the rpod is level.
I have a BAL (thing) that goes under the lowest wheel, then I crank to to get the sides are level, then I lower or higher the tongue until it's level front and back. I carry lynx blocks and one 4x4x8 piece of wood for the front and lynx block covers for under the stabilizers feet. Then I lower the stabilizer until the feet touch the pad, and stop. One of the most replaced items from what I hear are the back stabilizers, either getting broken on the road or too much stress (in leveling the warp). Open to being wrong, but leveling isn't the big deal it use to be for the fridge, and in the summer you want a little forward or backward tilt for water run off from the A/C. Lee |
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Still a work in progress, lots of pictures.
http://podterfly.blogspot.com/ |
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Guests
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Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 6:59am |
I agree with the above. I level just like Lee and I use the "Lynx" blocks. Leave the word "jack" out of the words "stabilizer jack". Just use these devises for stabilizing. Lower until they touch the ground, and then 1/4 turn more - very little pressure. Also, don't forget the wheel chocks.
PS - I just started wondering.....what are all of you folks doing inside of your Pods to make them "bouncy"?
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Outbound
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 19 Nov 2009 Location: Oshawa, Ontario Online Status: Offline Posts: 767 |
Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 7:26am |
As everyone has said, the jacks are for stabilizing, not leveling. The jacks are there to keep the trailer from wiggling around while you're inside it.
Your trailer's frame simply wasn't designed to be leveled with jackstands; doing so may bend the frame. To level your trailer side-to-side, you must put something under the tire on the low side. There are several options available, including short pieces of lumber, Lynx blocks or a Bal Leveler. You should be able to order replacement leveling jacks from your dealer. A pair cost me $50 CDN. They're very easy to install.
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Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9062 |
Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 8:31am |
I level using wood and/or Lynx under the tires. But I do use jack stands up front since my 'pod didn't come with front stabs. Once I started using them the 'pod become rock solid - no matter what was going on inside. No problems with the frame since I don't put much pressure on them, just enough to take out the wiggle - again, the wood and Lynx do the leveling.
My popup was never as stable as the 'pod and it had 4 stabs. I wish I had thought of using the jack stands back then.
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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PaddyMorris
Newbie Joined: 10 Sep 2010 Location: North Bay, On. Online Status: Offline Posts: 27 |
Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 8:22pm |
I will be hitting the auto wrecker for scissor jacks from wrecked cars. I did this for my old Trillium 4500, picked up 4 for about 60 bucks, plus I need more stability in the front than just the tongue jack.
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vandallc
Groupie Joined: 02 May 2010 Location: Charleston, SC Online Status: Offline Posts: 41 |
Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 6:58am |
I have decided to get the sissor jacks myself. Forest River has indeed converted to them for the reasons discussed in this thread so I'll get the ones they are converting to when I get a bunch of warranty work. I think though that I will keep the jack stands that I bought at Wal Mart for $25 because they are very sturdy and actually quicker to put up and take down. I just lower the front end down till the trailer is level, place the stands by the frame in the back with a half to one inch height higher, continue to lower the front end till they can slide under and then bring the front end back up to level and use the pod "stabilizers" on the front. Went I break down I just lower the front again and yank the jack stands out and throw them in storage.
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vandallc
2011 177 2003 Lincoln Navigator |
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cane2
Groupie Joined: 06 Dec 2009 Online Status: Offline Posts: 92 |
Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 11:47am |
I am thinking replacing mine with scissor jacks also i would hope that they do not hang down to far to bend up as i do not have risers on unit. I have a Bal leveler for side to side i have not needed to use it yet but good insurance to have. Would love to have less wobble in unit. I to drop front a little drop back stabilizers and add 1/2 turn bring front back to level i just hope i do not have to much pressure in any of the stabilizers. We will find out i guess if 1/2 turn is to much. David we square dance in ours that makes it bounce.
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