I used to have this as a Word document but a computer change left me without Word. So here it is in a reply:
Winterizing Steps:
1) Open both low-point drains
underneath the camper. These usually hang down along the left edge
under the floor. You will need two crescent wrenches, or equivalent -
one to hold the upper "nut", one to twist off the lower
nut.
2) Open the hot and cold valves on
the kitchen sink, then remove the anode rod plug on the hot water
heater. Water will gush out - but it will not be under pressure.
Inspect and replace the anode if necessary (about every two years).
The water heater must be stored dry, do not try to fill it with
antifreeze. Wait for the water to stop running out of the drains and
plug hole. Using a garden hose, flush any debris from inside the
water heater tank. If you don't need to inspect your anode rod you
can pull open the pressure relief valve at the top of the water
heater to speed up the draining process (some people do not recommend
doing this due to a fear of damaging it, but others do it all the
time w/o a problem). Insert the anode rod, using a layer of teflon
tape on the threads.
3) Turn all 3 bypass valves on the
hot water heater. The valves are inside the trailer on the back of
the water heater - look on the outside of the camper to see where the
water heater is located. The valves on the cold and hot water lines
will now be perpendicular to the water lines (closed), and the valve
between the hot and cold lines will now be parallel (open).
4) Attach a "blow-out plug"
to the city water connection. This has an air inlet on one end like
the Schrader valves on your tires, and threads to attach to the water
connection. Any RV dealer should have one of these plugs. Apply LOW
pressure air (less than 20 psi) until the low-point drains stop
sputtering. Close the low-point drains finger-tight.
5) Open each valve inside the
camper, one at a time, until it sputters and then close it. Don't
forget the toilet and shower. Remove the blow-out plug. If your
camper has the black tank rinse connection, apply air to this
connection for several seconds using the blow-out plug.
6) Inside the trailer, remove the
access panel for the water pump (on the 171 its the same location as
the water heater). On the intake line for the water pump, you'll
notice a valve and about 2 1/2' of tubing that's loose on one end. A
few model years did not include this at all, later models don't have
the valve and you must remove the intake hose to attach the
antifreeze pick-up hose. If you don't have one you can buy the
pick-up hose from any dealer. Flip the valve and put the loose end
into your jug of PINK RV antifreeze (DO NOT USE ORANGE OR GREEN AUTO
ANTIFREEZE). The pump will now draw from the jug of antifreeze
instead of your fresh water tank.
7) Turn on the switch for the water
pump.
8) Turn on the taps at the sink and
in the shower, one at a time. Let each run until the water is the
color of your antifreeze (pink), then close it.
9) Run the toilet until the water is
pink. Flush what comes out at first, but leave some of the pure
antifeeze in the bowl for the winter.
10) Open the low-point drains again,
let them run until you see pink. Close them tightly.
11) Pull the hose out of the
antifreeze bottle just enough so it can't suck up any more
antifreeze. Turn on the sink again for a second or two until the
antifreeze is out of the intake line. This keeps the sticky
antifreeze from running all over the floor when you pull the intake
completely out of the bottle.
12) Close the valve near the water
pump, stow the intake hose and close the access panel, turn off the
power for the water pump.
13) Outside and underneath the
trailer, open your freshwater tank's drain valve and allow it to
empty.
14) Pour some RV antifreeze into the
shower and sink drains to fill the water traps.
15) Make sure the black and gray
waste water tanks are empty. The last dump of the season fill both
tanks full of water before dumping. Repeat at least once.
16) Set the fridge's door latch so
it stays open - look at the assembly on the wall of the fridge, you
can slide it out some so when the door is latched it stays open
enough to prevent mold from growing. Or just hang a hand towl over
the door so it won't close.
17) Open the lower fridge vent and
look for the white drip cup. It can be removed by pulling it towards
you. Empty and replace.
18) Remove the 9 volt batteries from
the smoke and CO detectors, and make sure the lead-acid battery is
disconnected.