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Topic ClosedReplacing 3-way fridge with 12v

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Dromsie View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Replacing 3-way fridge with 12v
    Posted: 13 Apr 2021 at 4:22pm
I tried searching for this topic but no luck.  Please redirect if a thread already exists.  Has anyone replaced the stock 3-way fridge with a high efficiency 12V fridge like you find in most camper vans (I've been looking at Isotherms)?  I'm tired of dealing with the fluctuating temps that result from using gas.  I've figured out a few tips for keeping the temp consistent, but they can be incovenient.  I'm just wondering if anyone has done this mod and can share what model fridge they bought and how difficult it is (I'm handy and have done lots of mods already).  Here are my tricks for keeping fridge cool

1). Try to park with side of R-Pod with fridge vents pointing north, so they don't get direct sun.
2).  I removed the microwave and made that area a storage cabinet.  I realized that this area collects a lot of heat from the fridge, so now I leave the door open and don't store anything up there, so the heat dissipates into the camper, but I lose valuable storage.  I plan to install a vent on the side of the cabinet and put a little fan up there.
3).  Can add more fans and baffles to vent compartment
4).  Make an "awning" for the fridge vents to keep direct sun out.

Thanks,

Seth
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2021 at 6:22pm
There have been several threads on This topic you could do an advanced search for.

The isotherms and equivalents pretty much all use the Danfoss/Secop dc
inverter based compressors which have been around since the 1980s and are well proven all over the world. I personally installed them in medical fridges in Africa in the early 80s so can vouch for their quality and reliability.

The issue is that you will use a lot more energy from your battery. So if you boondock you'll need more battery and solar and/or run a generator significantly more. If that's ok with you then go for it.

If not then stick with the propane. It's much less efficient but propane contains about 200x as much energy per pound as a lead acid battery so way more than makes up for it.
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2021 at 6:23pm
Hi Seth,

Good ideas above.  I have done #1 and #2 from the time we first got our 177 back in 2011.  #3 - I found out after struggling with the vacillating temps for 4 years my brother re-positioned the bi-metal switch placing it just less than 2 inches from the cooling stack chimney.  The resulting change was amazing, the 2 muffin fans kicked on at lower temps and stayed running a lot longer resulting in much lower temps in the fridge.

Unfortunately the original fridge 'kicked the bucket' last fall (lasted 10 years) so I ended up spending the big $$$ to replace it with the identical RM 8501.  Having had a couple minor issues with the new one (broken eyebrow that encases the display panel/mother board - which they replaced) and a button that didn't light when pushed (electric mode) even though the fridge would cool in this mode FR decided to send me a whole new fridge!  So now I have an extra, built last October.  If interested you can look under the flea market tab.

Sorry I can't give any advice or wisdom for what you are looking for but wanted to say that your four points listed are valuable ideas that all of us could utilize for a more efficient and stable temp inside the RM 8501 unit.  I do know of an individual who tried to use a household gas model but it was short lived - didn't appreciate the bouncing around that home fridges aren't built for.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2021 at 6:25pm
Well, I can't answer your first question. I have a 12V Free Piston Sterling Cooler chest that came with a 120V adapter. It does work quite well and will run in the vehicle overnight without running down the battery. I have appreciated having it to hold things that should not get above 40 degrees, such as meats. We move it between tow vehicle and RPod as needed.

Your suggestions on keeping sunlight off the side of the RPod with the refrigerator are good. I did add a couple of muffin fans to the top vent and wired them into the existing vent fan circuit so they turn on and off with the existing one. I have not added any baffles. I do clean the gas burner and vent periodically to make sure it is clean and will be working at top capacity. I also added a double-fan that attaches to the fins in the refrigerator to circulate the air. Everything together seems to help and unless I put something warm into the refrigerator, it does seem to keep good refrigeration temperatures. I have resorted to removing the freezer compartment so the full cooling will be used to cool the refrigerator when the temperatures were very high. We will be doing some travel out west this summer and will likely have to do this to keep things cool. Even so, the FPSC unit will be the one which will make sure the really sensitive items stay cold enough. I can live with warm drinks. I don't want to risk food poisoning.

As for searching, use the advanced search. It will allow you to expand the date range. The default is to only search posts no older than six months. The advanced search will allow you to search without a date limit.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2021 at 7:10pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2021 at 7:42pm
Marwayne, How did you attach the support to the side of the RPod? Is it suction cups? I'm guessing it is PVC pipe. I recognize the Reflectix. Also, does it break down for compact storage when not in use or when on the road?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2021 at 8:47pm
Offgrid,

I currently have 2 6-volt batteries.  I run a portable solar panel when camping.  I'm in the Southwest, so plenty of sun.  I believe those nice 12v fridges are very energy efficient...unlike the Dometics when in 12V mode.  My buddy has a sprinter with one installed and he never has battery issues, and he doesn't have too much more solar than I do.  I assumed someone has put one of these in their Pod, I'll try the advanced search.

Seth
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2021 at 9:34pm
Just to clarify, I'm thinking of a marine 12v fridge similar to this one (the dimensions are a little off).

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/isotherm--cruise-130-drink-stainless-steel-4-6-cu-ft-ac-dc-left-swing-4-sided-stainless-steel-flange-no-freezer-compartment--17157389?recordNum=8

I think I'm looking at this correctly, but these type of fridges pull anywhere from 2-5 amps depending on the brand.  The dometic that came stock pulls about 10 on 12v.  With a 225 amp hour battery system and a solar panel, I don't think I'd ever have battery issues.

Seth
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2021 at 11:28pm
PVC pipe, it rests on the fender, suction cups hold it to the wall. Reflectix is held in place via Velcro.
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2021 at 11:28pm
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
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