solar panels |
Post Reply | Page 123> |
Author | |
kansasfrogs
Groupie Joined: 21 Jul 2016 Location: KS Online Status: Offline Posts: 83 |
Post Options
Quote Reply
Topic: solar panels Posted: 27 Jun 2021 at 4:38pm |
I have the Renogy 100 watt 42x20 solar panel. It came with cable to the controller and to the battery, but how do I get it hooked into the "solar ready" port on the side of the Pod? Do I have to buy more or different cable? Adaptors? I am presuming that once I get it plugged into the port, that it will go through the inverter?converter? already in the camper? First time trying this I found these on amazon. does this look like anything I need?
|
|
FROGGY
|
|
Colt
Senior Member Joined: 16 Nov 2019 Online Status: Offline Posts: 383 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 1:07am |
That *might* be just what you need. The MC4 connectors are common/normal for solar systems so it might be just what connects to your charge controller. The SAE connectors are what Zamp ports use, but check the polarity carefully. Mine is opposite of what I expected.
|
|
John
'16 R-Pod 180 |
|
kansasfrogs
Groupie Joined: 21 Jul 2016 Location: KS Online Status: Offline Posts: 83 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 7:57am |
Thank you for your response. Have a wonderful summer! Liz
|
|
FROGGY
|
|
podwerkz
Senior Member Joined: 11 Mar 2019 Location: Texas Online Status: Offline Posts: 966 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 8:00am |
You still need to install a solar charge controller or provide one externally.
|
|
r・pod 171 gone but not forgotten!
|
|
offgrid
Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 8:50am |
The solar ready port is just a connection to the battery. The solar charge controller manages it's own charging, the rpod converter is not involved.
So, you don't need to use that charge port, and many (most?) people don't. It tends to just add more wire resistance losses between your solar module and your battery. You can just connect directly between the solar charge controller and the battery via an inline or bolt on fuse at the battery + terminal. The charge controller can be mounted by the battery or in an adjacent storage compartment if you want. If you do use the existing charge port take heed of the reverse polarity warning and use a voltmeter to be sure you get it right before connecting. It's been deliberately wired reverse to normal for that SAE connector type so that ppl think they have to buy a Zamp solar kit. |
|
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
|
kansasfrogs
Groupie Joined: 21 Jul 2016 Location: KS Online Status: Offline Posts: 83 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 9:22am |
Thanks for all the info! Liz
|
|
FROGGY
|
|
StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6326 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 01 Jul 2021 at 7:15am |
The picture you included does show a gender reverser plug in the middle of the coil at the top-left. Use a voltmeter so you know which terminal in your RPod is positive and which is negative (If you touch red lead to one connector and black to another and the reading is positive (e.g. 13.5v), you have the correct polarity. If you get a negative reading (e.g. -13.5v) then the polarity of the plug is opposite of what you connected. Switch the connection of your meter and verify that you get a positive reading with red and black leads. Note which connection is positive. Check the SAE connector on the wire shown above. If the red is going to plug in so red aligns with positive, fine. If not, then use the gender reverser plug to be able to flip the connection around so the red will connect to positive and the black to negative.
What I typed sounds complicated, but when you get out there with a meter, it will make sense and be very easy.
|
|
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
|
kansasfrogs
Groupie Joined: 21 Jul 2016 Location: KS Online Status: Offline Posts: 83 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 01 Jul 2021 at 2:06pm |
Thanks! I am still learning all this stuff and don't want to ruin a battery or worse!
|
|
FROGGY
|
|
offgrid
Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 02 Jul 2021 at 6:12am |
The advice to always use a voltmeter to confirm is sound. You never know who or when the wiring could have been screwed up by someone. There is a lot of confusion because there are two different wire color standards used for 12v systems in RVs. One is the old automotive standard, red pos, black neg. The other is the national electric code standard which, just like in your house, has black or red hot (in this case positive) and white neutral (in this case negative). You will find the original internal wiring in the trailer following this standard, as the NEC does apply to RVs.
This is all so confusing to some folks that things end up wired wrong on RVs a lot. That often leads to what we call "finding out where they hid the smoke". So, use the voltmeter to confirm what you have, assume nothing, and don't add to confusion for yourself or the next owner by messing up the color code further, use either one or the other standard and stick to it. The other thing folks do a lot is not put in the correct fuses and or circuit breakers when they wire things in their 12v system. 12v battery systems are probably more of a fire safety concern that 120v systems because of the high currents available. But for whatever reason some people who would never dream of bypassing a breaker in their home panel board think they don't need fuses or circuit breakers on their 12v RV circuits. Totally wrong and a Code violation. |
|
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
|
TEDDY
Groupie Joined: 22 Oct 2017 Location: Arkansas Online Status: Offline Posts: 94 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 07 Jul 2021 at 8:45pm |
I have 2 100 watt flex solar panels feeding a 30 amp charge controller, with alligator clips from the controller to the 12 v battery. Why do I need an in-line fuse between the charge controller and the battery?
|
|
Teddy
|
|
Post Reply | Page 123> |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |