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Topic ClosedBrakes are hot...

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rimshot View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Brakes are hot...
    Posted: 08 Mar 2014 at 12:10am
When I was bringing my rig home a couple of weeks ago, the brakes just didn't feel right. I would turn the correct knob on the control to loosen the brakes up and they still got very hot. They were smoking when I pulled up. I had to go back to the dealer to pick something up and asked if I could bring it back and have them run me through the brake operation again. To be safe, kind of, I drove all the way back to the dealer without the plug in so any brakes would be applied. Straight shot down a country road so it was okay. The left side was smoking hot and the right side was just warm when I got to the dealer. I ended up leaving it there and they said all they had to do was re-adjust the one side. Well driving it home today they got hot again. Both sides. They said it could be the pads breaking in since these are trailered down from Oregon and not towed. At one point, slowly coming up to a stop sign they locked up. I loosened them more and they seemed to work alright the rest of the way home but were still hot. They were so loose that when testing at 20 MPH they barely stopped the trailer when just using the control. I'm going to take her for a spin tomorrow and see how they feel. The drag about this is I bought a pop-up trailer there last year, which I traded in for this, and had to take it back due to bad surge brakes.   They seem to think I’m rough on brakes. Sorry for the long post but I wanted to get some input from all you folks….Thanks, Bill
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2014 at 1:28am
I had the same problem with my 2010 174 brakes over heating,man what a brain buster. We bought it from a private owner soon no dealer. I tried everything to no avail so wen took it to a rv repair shop they said all they had to do was adjust them. BS!!!!!!!!!!!! less than a mile from their shot the brakes were so hot you couldn`t touch the drum. I have lippert axels so they said it was the drums ,OK put new ones on they said it`s fixed, a mile down the road the same thing,oh must be your tow vehicle,duh you guys installed the brake controller, the plug in and set it up. well the put my old drums back on and they gave up.I backed the brake shoes off till the didn`t drag at all and ran my controller on 2.5-to 3. you might want to check your bearing and seals after that heat. I hope you took it back to the dealer and insisted  they fix it. Take them on a test drive with your tow vehicle and show them. They can check to see if  maybe something wrong with the brake controller. If you say no heating problem with the trailer unplugged,and with it plugged in but not touching the brake no heat, then either the controller or the brakes not backing off when you take your foot off the brake is. I put a lot of time and work into mine , one thing i found was that the flanges that the backing plates are bolted to were not straight and I had to put shims in to fix that.
                                              moe
Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150

Jo and Gary
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2011 Ford 150



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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2014 at 2:20am
Dumb idea here, but you aren't one of those people who ride the brake pedal all the time with your left foot are you?  With at least some brake controllers, the longer your foot is on the brake the more pressure is applied to the trailer brakes. 

Backing the controller off should only effect how much pressure is applied to the trailer brakes when the brakes are used, per my understanding.  If your brake pedal is not depressed there should be no trailer braking at all.  If the controller is turned all the way up a light touch of the brakes will lock up the trailer brakes, but not until your foot hits the pedal.

It's probably something else, but I thought I'd throw that out there.  You might check the brake wire at the TV and see if it's getting voltage all the time, even when there is no foot on the brake.  That would indicate faulty wiring or a bad controller.

TT
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2014 at 3:58am
If you unplugged the trailer from the tow vehicle for the return trip to the dealer, you have completely taken the brake controller & wiring out of the equation. Either something in the brakes was assembled/adjusted wrong or something is defective.
As my father says " The Lord isn't building many trailer brakes these days. And he's the only one that I know of that's infallible".
Darryl, Julie & Lindsey
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2014 at 11:59am
The brakes should not get "smoking hot" during the break in period. That's just ridiculous.

If the pod were to come loose from the tow vehicle somehow, the breakaway cable is designed to pull out from its socket and use the pod's battery to apply the brakes. Check to be sure this is plugged in all the way. If it's not plugged in or not working right, it makes no difference whether or not the brake controller is plugged in. If the pod's battery is connected, your brakes are going to be applied.

A competent service person should be able to diagnose this problem pretty quickly. In my experience competent service people are in the minority. You might suggest they check the breakaway cable while they're bumbling around billing you by the hour.
.: Mark & Beth :: Silverado 5.3L :: 2018 rPod 180 :.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2014 at 12:12pm
I agree. The drums should just be warm if you're not applying the brakes much. I'm going to drive it around today and if they get real hot again I'm taking it back again. Thank goodness they're not billing me by the hour. Only had it three weeks. As I stated before though, this will be the forth time I've had to take one of my trailers back to them for bad brakes and the "vibes" are starting to get a little bad. I was thinking of contacting Forest River and asking if I could take it to another shop. Anybody else ever have to do that?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2014 at 12:25pm
Here is a suggestion. If possible tow the trailer with a different vehicle if you don't have a heat problem and the brakes work good,  you might say it's youR tv if they still heat up it's the trailer.
     Good luck,I know it is very flustrating , again make sure they check your bearings and seals
          Moe
Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150

Jo and Gary
2010 174
2011 Ford 150



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2014 at 12:38pm
The guys at the shop said it could be my TV. How could that be? It's a 2012 Dodge Ram with 6000 miles on it. Brakes work just fine in it. I could use my sisters vehicle to test it but I'd have to wait about a month since she lives in San Francisco and I'm half way to Yosemite and she don't plan on coming out for a while. I still think I'm going to contact FR and request to take it to a brake shop.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2014 at 12:39pm
I missed the comment about pulling it with the 7-pin cable disconnected.  If the brakes are sticking with no electrical connection to the TV then of course the problem must be behind the hitch.  I agree the first and easiest thing to check would be the breakaway cable.

TT
2010 176
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2014 at 1:36pm
Originally posted by rimshot

The guys at the shop said it could be my TV. How could that be?  

Maybe they're thinking the trailer harness in your vehicle is wired wrong so it's constantly applying the brakes? Hmmm... Not likely, but possible I guess. Could the trailer be wired wrong? Maybe, but I've been to the factory and they check all the wiring with a diagnostic tool before it leaves the door. Could the dealership have attempted to repair some type of damage to the trailer's wiring harness and mucked it up? 

Your dealership's tow vehicle theory is easily checked with a voltmeter. Stick voltmeter probes in correct holes in connector, step on brakes. Theory confirmed or eliminated in seconds, bam. No need to find another tow vehicle.
.: Mark & Beth :: Silverado 5.3L :: 2018 rPod 180 :.
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