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Topic ClosedWD hitches - Event Date: 07 Nov 2016 - 01 Dec 2016

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Luv2Q View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: WD hitches
    Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 4:27pm
Our TV is a Tundra with 5.7L engine and tow package including integrated anti-sway.  We've used the E2 600# round bar from the get-go with, first, our 171 and, now, our 180.  Yes, I've towed both without the bars (to/from a dealer about 10 highway miles away) and I wasn't nearly as comfortable as when I'm using the bars.  Speeds without were around 60; any faster and I could see "wiggling" plus passing semis was a noticeable experience.  With the bars, the TV and trailer were as one unit.  My typical highway speeds are around 62-63 in 5th (6-spd tranny).  IMHO, the 600# size E2 is definitely the sweet spot for RPods.
John & Teri
Tundra 5.7L V8 / RP 180
E2 WDH / Integrated controller (POS) replaced by Tekonsha P3
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2016 at 2:41pm
I am not familiar with any other WDH but I am very happy with the Andersen WHD that I have on my 178. I bought used and it came with the hitch so I didn't do any research.  The Andersen is easy to put on once you get the hitch height correct for your tow vehicle. I came from a small popup tent trailer so never used a WHD before.  I can tell a real difference, particularly with porpoising when I don't use it plus I can backup without any issues.  i would definitely recommend looking into that hitch.
Pod: 2013 178
TV: 2014 Explorer Limited with tow package
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Steve 911 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2016 at 9:13pm
Thanks everyone for your responses.  
Firefighter Steve (retired)
2017.5 Rpod 179 (Reepod)
2016 Highlander AWD w/tow pkg.
E2 wdh, prodigy RF brake controller.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 12:50pm
Ive been pulling my RPOD 180 around for several months now. I picked it up in Denver and drove 450 miles on I-25 at 65 mph. No issues and no sway or distribution hitch. It tracks straight behind my truck. I took a trip to Vegas and went up I-40 for 500 miles, again, no issues. Drove from Vegas to San Diego on all the big interstates (I-15), again no issues. Drove from San Diego east on I-8 to I-10 to Phoenix and no issues. From Phoenix to New Mexico another long haul and no issues.
If I were you, I'd haul it around a while to see how you feel. Sometimes people like to place doubts in your decisions and as a result, you spend money you might not have to. The best advise I can offer is to keep the speed at 65mph and make sure you criss cross your towing chains and always, always, always place a safety pin or lock on your locking lever to make sure your hitch doesn't pop off the ball on a bumpy road surface. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 3:28pm
Weekend Warrior, Please don't extrapolate your experience with a truck towing to people towing with other vehicles. I am sure that the tow characteristics of your Chevy Colorado with the diesel is different than that of Steve 911 with a Toyota Highlander or than mine with our Ford Escape.

The advice you offer at the end is valid, regardless of whether someone uses a plain ball hitch, a ball hitch with a friction stabilizer, or a WD hitch with stabilization. For my part, I limit the speed to 60 mph, mainly because the AeroPlus instructions say that I should  do so to prevent damage to it. Our mileage is better also for doing so. As for the locking lever, one way to make sure that the hitch is properly connected is to try to lift the hitch and back of the TV attached with it. For me, this happens when I raise it up to put the bars on our Equal-i-zer hitch. I always use a lock and then I always cross the chains.
StephenH
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 6:42pm
i immediately wanted no less than sway control when i bought my trailer. i got both WD w/ anti sway. i remember as a youngster i was in the very back of my dads station wagon. we pulled the trailer all over in those days, never an issue. well, this day, i think he might of gotten a little close to the edge of the road and either it was spongy or maybe he barely caught the shoulder, we were never sure. As i looked out the rear window at a trailer whipping back and forth, left to right, like it was a giant monster trying to find a way into the vehicle it scared the crap outta me. i hope to never see anything like that again, and i would rather " waste " money on possibly making sure that  this 1 in a 100 situation is avoided if possible.
2017.5 Rp-172
2020 R-pod 195
2015 Frontier sv 4.0L 6cyl
I'll be rpodding
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 7:44pm
Something similar happened to my dad. We were young and sleeping in the back of our station wagon. I understand that the trailer almost jackknifed. It was not long after that that my parents sold the trailer and got a truck camper. I have always erred on the side of safety because of this. I would rather have sway control and not need it than to need sway control and not have it.
StephenH
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2016 at 9:27pm
For all TVs it is best to have at least a sway bar.  As the saying goes, if you suddenly need it one day and don't have it, its too late.  

A WDH is a must for a minivan or light truck, and even with a full-sized truck it improves the ride quality even if it isn't technically needed.  I always used it when I towed my pod with my Suburban.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2016 at 10:22pm
  I'm going to repost this from a few weeks ago because I think there is too strong a bias in favor of WDHs and sway bars around here.  Maybe there should be a favorable bias, but from my own experience they aren't always necessary.  And while the notion that you may not know you need it until it's too late may be true, it's also no guarantee that even with a WDH and sway control you won't have issues. 

  You can argue that I've been lucky -- and I certainly won't suggest that I have any special expertise or  experience, but I do have a good bit of experience without a WDH or sway control, and now I have some experience with them both.

  So, for what it's worth, here's my response to a similar subject a few weeks ago:

Having 10% to 15% of the trailer weight on the tongue is most important.  This is completely anecdotal, but I tow a 176 with a 6 cyl. FJ Cruiser.  I've towed (my Pod) roughly 20,000 miles without a WDH or sway control and never had an issue.  I'd occasionally notice a bit of sway, but nothing more than slightly attention-getting.  Really, hardly noticeable.   I guess I noticed a bit of porpoising, but again, more as a technical point of observation than even annoying.

I've read this forum for several years and I've seen all the posts about how important or at least what a good idea a WDH hitch with sway control is, so this fall I bought a Fastway E2 600 and set it all up and took off from Nashville to the Rockies in New Mexico and Colorado.  About 4000 miles of windy interstates and over several 12,000+ foot passes, and back.

I'm not sure I could tell the difference with the WDH or without it.  I suppose maybe I could a little bit, and now that I've got it I'll keep using it for a while at least, but honestly, I can't say it was worth $300 or more.  As they say, maybe it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it, but it's something you can add later.  I suggest you try your combination without a WDH for a while and see what you think.

My impression of the Fastway E2 is that it's a great piece of work.  If you think you need a WDH, even though this is the only one I've ever tried, I'd recommend it.  I'm not sure everyone needs it though.

I'll add that being careful and using common sense whenever you're on the road is the ultimate safety consideration; more so when towing.  Never forget that that trailer is back there.

TT

2010 176
FJ Cruiser
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2016 at 11:25pm
Last week I posted basically the same thing your saying and I kinda got what felt like a tongue lashing. Since I'm thick skinned, I paid no attention to the critic. I really think everyone should tow their trailers around a few miles and decide if you want to add sway bars and hitch equalizers. 
Before placing down the cash and getting raked over the coals for $300-$500 bills, go shopping on eBay or Craig's list for some used stuff. There's tons of You Tube videos out there that explain how to install them. Heck, even your local RV dealer may have some used stuff on hand they can sell you. Doesn't hurt to ask.
In the mean time, remember never to place too much load towards the rear of your trailer or you'll have the problem of losing total control of your rig.
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