towing

Grease: Equal-i-zer states to use grease on the friction surfaces at the pivot points of the bars. As for the ball, after the first time I towed and saw how much wear was there after that first time, I started using Reese Hitch Ball Lube. Using it and cleaning up after towing is likely cheaper than replacing the hitch ball and the trailer's hitch.

As for connecting, I suspect that when you lowered the hitch onto the ball, it landed with the locking plate sitting on top of the ball. If that is the case, it won't be able to lock. However, I don't know since I was not there to see what was happening. Other things to consider: Does the locking mechanism work freely when the trailer is sitting unhitched? Was the latch fully open?

When I lower mine on, I try to aim it so that the ball hits toward the front of the trailer's hitch socket. I usually have to bump the TV forward just a bit until the ball is sitting against the front before I can lock it down. Then I use the jack to lift up to make sure it is securely latched. I need to raise it anyway to get the bars on to the brackets on the trailer's A frame.

I hope you get it figured out. Towing with the trailer not hitched properly is not a good move.

cjscint:  I agree with Stephen.  It seems most likely that the locking plate was in the way of the hitch coming all the way down on the ball.  His method of getting in on is exactly what I do too.  He and I have the same WDH too.  You must have something different because there is almost no way in the world I could hook up my pod and the WDH and not have the ball locked on securely.

You might need some oil up underneath the hitching mechanism on the trailer.  Sometimes there's a hole or two on the hitch you can squirt oil into, and I think there are places on both sides of the hitch that should be oiled.  Having your hitch lubricated so that it can move like it should can help a whole lot.

As for grease, I never used it until I got a WDH a few months ago.  Roughly 50 years with no grease; 5 months with grease.  I can't tell the difference, other than getting greasy every time I hook up now, but that's what the WDH instructions call for, so okay.  It makes sense, but I never did it before.  Also, for what it's worth, I've never seen any noticeable wear on a hitch ball.

Stephen, your comment about greasing the friction surfaces is confusing.  As I read them, the instructions call for grease where the sway bars are inserted into the hitch, right below/behind the ball.  I wouldn't call those friction surfaces.  To me, the friction surfaces are where the rear ends of bars rest on the things that hang down from the tongue.  Those don't get grease, I don't think.  If that's where you're talking about I need to go back and re-read the instructions.

I also vehemently agree that if you don't think you're hooked up right you shouldn't get out on the road.  Jostling things an inch or two on a level service to try to make it work, yes, maybe, but, as you say too, obviously not safe or acceptable to go down the road.  I've done it inadvertently and amazingly, or by the Grace of God, only bent a jack. 

TT

Originally posted by StephenH It is at the pivot points, not at the bar ends that hook on to the A frame.

I just re-read your original post and it's clearer than I thought.  Sorry.  Any time two surfaces move against each other there is friction of course, but in the context of friction sway bars, the pivot points don't seem to me to be friction surfaces.  Of course, if there wasn't friction, they wouldn't need grease.

Too much said about this bit of trivia.  I wouldn't have said anything in the first place if I'd read your post more carefully.

TT

Originally posted by StephenH I don't know if it is normal, but the hitch ball that the dealer installed does show wear. The shiny chrome coating is worn off and a brass color is showing in those places. This started the very first time we towed. I don't know if it means that the R-Pod's hitch has rough places that should not be there, but the wear is why I started greasing the ball.

There might be a clue there.  A dealer installed chrome plated ball might not be the best quality.  Not much doubt in my mind that some dealers could find a ball that would look nice for 15 minutes and maybe last long enough to get you a hundred miles away.

I've mostly gone with the most expensive stainless steel ball I could find.  A good ball will, at least in my limited experience, last a lifetime.  You can overpay and still spend way less than 50¢ a year on a good ball.  But, yeah, you might have had some rough spots or grit or something on the hitch, which could cause wear too.

TT