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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Solar Questions
    Posted: 24 May 2017 at 4:56pm
Our 2017 179 has a sticker that recommends Go Power 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2017 at 6:04pm
We use a Renogy 100watt suitcase system that works well.  It keeps our 2 6volt GC batteries fully charged .  We are careful with our power usage and boondock most of the time.  We have a 30' cord connected to the panel so it can be in the sun while the pod is in the shade.  the cord is the same gauge as the power cord so there is little voltage drop in the length. If possible, I will reorient the panel several times a day IF I am in camp.  If not, I align it as soon as we get up for current maximum and then I re-align it before we leave camp. I try to anticipate (from yesterday's observations and a compass) where to aim the panel to get maximum mid-day sun.

I have been happy with Renogy products and the service/advice they have offered.  My pod is older and was not pre-wired for solar.  From what I read and hear, the "pre-wired for solar" is essentially  a marketing ploy.  I'm sure it may save a little money and time, but I would probably do my own wiring even if I had a newer "pre-wired" pod.

controllers have a lot of variety.  different people have different ideas about which type to use.  In my case, having only 100 watts, the less expensive and less sophisticated controller works fine.  We use the 20 amp PWM controller and it seems to work fine and give me more information than I need/understand/want.

I am happy with my system and the installation.  There is a post several months back about my system and the installation.  I have changed a few things since the beginning, but it is basically the same.

Vann

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2017 at 8:32pm
Forest River changed from Zamp to Go Power for their "solar ready" hookup in 2017 production models.  If you have the ZAMP ready RPOD you can use a standard SAE plug but ZAMP reverses the polarity so if you hook up a non Zamp system it wont work unless you cut the wires and reverse them or buy a SAE converter.  I do not know what the polarity is for the Go Power plug and whether it is similar to ZAMP and reversed or not.  Will need to research that.  Then again you can bypass the prewired plug and just connect your solar system directly to the battery
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 12:23am
Originally posted by john in idaho

Forest River changed from Zamp to Go Power for their "solar ready" hookup in 2017 production models.  If you have the ZAMP ready RPOD you can use a standard SAE plug but ZAMP reverses the polarity so if you hook up a non Zamp system it wont work unless you cut the wires and reverse them or buy a SAE converter.  I do not know what the polarity is for the Go Power plug and whether it is similar to ZAMP and reversed or not.  Will need to research that.  Then again you can bypass the prewired plug and just connect your solar system directly to the battery


Do you think the zamp is suitable for a complete beginner?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 12:37am
It may be but so is the Renogy 100w suitcase and for a lot less than the Zamp.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 10:10am
Originally posted by mle

Originally posted by geewizard

I completely bypassed the Zamp wiring and connector and used my own wiring to connect a Renogy 120 W solar panel (portable, not fixed) and Morningstar MPPT controller.  Anderson connectors with weatherproof boots connect the panel to the controller.  See my other posts on mods to see pics of my setup.

We just returned from a 3 day trip without running the generator at all.

I like that connector you did, looks really nice. Smile


Thanks.  I like the Anderson connectors and use them in all my 12V applications.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 10:14am
My opinion is that a MPPT solar controller wrings out every bit of solar panel output far more efficiently than a PWM solar controller.  And so, it's even more critical to use one with smaller solar panels.  As is using the largest gauge wire between the solar panel and battery.  Every little bit helps when you're beginning with little bits anyway.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 10:31am
Originally posted by geewizard

My opinion is that a MPPT solar controller wrings out every bit of solar panel output far more efficiently than a PWM solar controller.  And so, it's even more critical to use one with smaller solar panels.  As is using the largest gauge wire between the solar panel and battery.  Every little bit helps when you're beginning with little bits anyway.
The other advantage to an MPPT controller is that you can run the "solar part" of the system at a much higher voltage. This means that in low sun conditions, the panels can actually provide juice to the batteries when a pure PWM system might be able to actually charge.

For example, our 150W panel is designed to be used with a 24V system, so it's output is in the 30-37 volt range. You could not use it with a PWM controller for a 12V battery system. However, the MPPT controller is quite happy with 37 volts input (and even higher), and putting out charging voltages for a 12V battery. In low light conditions, it could actually charge a 12V battery where a PWM system would still be waiting for some more sun.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2017 at 1:44am
Originally posted by GlueGuy

I'm very familiar with DC solar systems. I have been building my own for remote communications facilities for over a decade. 

I presume the zamp connector on an R-pod is connected directly to the battery (or batteries) with probably a fuse in between? If that's the case, then any external solar controller would probably work fine.

I've got a few spare solar panels laying around, and they are all nominally 24V panels (they actually put out between 30 and 37 volts, depending on manufacturer and load, etc).

My intention is to use one of my 150 watt panels, and connect it through a small MPPT controller set for a 12V system.

 
I highly recommend using a higher voltage panel like you describe. One advantage is that with the MPPT controller the power lost in long wire runs is much less. Just place the controller near the battery and use the higher voltage for long wire runs between the panel and the camper. This gives the option of placing the panel at some distance from the camper out of the shade. I have used a 36-volt, 185 watt panel with up to a 75 foot 10-gauge cable. 

My writeup on my solar power system is at this link:


I've also used a nice 120-watt panel which runs at around 34 volts at max. power point. I can also use both panels in parallel (305 watts) with the same Morningstar Sunsaver MMPT-15L controller. The power is limited to 200 watts (15 amps) by the controller without damage to anything. In the early and late parts of the day the output would be increased (up to the 200 watt limit), as it would on cloudy days. But I'm hoping that for dry camping, the 120 watt panel would suffice.

Let us know how your solar power system works.
Russ
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2017 at 9:05am
My Renogy 100W panel is taking care of all our power needs and puts out over 19VDC in direct sun.  We run the fridge on propane and use a Wave 3 catalytic heater. So far, we've had no need to use a generator.

I just recently made another 25' cable for the solar panel using this wire and Anderson connectors with boots on each end: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IK4P6WU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did this because I was chasing sunlight in a camping spot with tall trees and couldn't put the solar panel in the "steady" sunlight spot.
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