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Topic ClosedConverter Failure

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NoDak View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Converter Failure
    Posted: 01 Aug 2017 at 12:54am
Just returned from a weekend camping trip with our 2016.5 180. We were on shore power, and everything worked fine, including electrical and 12V systems. However, I periodically checked the "idiot lights" panel, and the battery never showed 4 lights; it varied between 2 and 3. To me, this indicated that the converter was not properly charging the battery. Any thoughts? And what would be the result if one of the 40 amp fuses was blown? I don't yet know that to be the case, but was just wondering.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2017 at 5:28am

You may want to do a search on "converters". There have been several recent posts regarding converter issues and a lot of good troubleshooting advice was written.

Judging by what you post, it does sound as though the unit may not be charging or the monitor panel is not giving accurate readings. It may be time to get out the volt meter and do some detective work.
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NoDak View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2017 at 7:27am
Thank you!
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furpod View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2017 at 7:41am
The result of the 40A's being blown is exactly the same as the converter being dead, no 12v going to the system from the converter.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2017 at 7:52am
I think you need to look at the battery and measure, nut count on the LED light panel. At some point you may want to mount a digital voltmeter in the Pod, which will give you an accurate measure of battery voltages without checking directly at battery. Lastly disconnect the shore power, and see what your 12V stuff does.
Mike Carter
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2017 at 9:23am
If your R-Pod is still under warranty, then get with your dealer. If the warranty is expired on the R-Pod, the converter has a two-year warranty. My situation was that the Pod's warranty had expired, so I am handling this myself. If you don't feel comfortable doing so, then get with your dealer because the converter still has the warranty.

If when the battery was installed, the wires were connected reversed, even for a moment, then one or both of the 40A fuses are blown. Check the polarity of the battery connections (black or red to positive, white to negative). Then pull the 40A fuses and check visibly (you should see if it is blown). If it looks like it is not blown, still check with a digital voltmeter. Set it to check Ohms and make sure it goes from 1 to 0 when you touch both legs of the fuse. If the fuses are good, then check the breaker. If you are plugged in to shore power, you should be able to get a voltage reading between the black wire that is connected to the breaker and the neutral connection (white) or ground (bare copper) connection with your voltmeter set to 200V or higher. It should read 110-120V. If you have power, check the output of the converter. Disconnect shore power, then the battery. Connect shore power. With the battery disconnected, does it supply 12V to the R-Pod? If not, then it is probable that you have a bad converter. Mine went out on our last trip.

You can contact WFCO's technical support at (574) 294-8997. You can download the Warranty, RGA, and Repair Information from www.wfcoelectronics.com. You can expedite replacement by also downloading the Credit Card Authorization form from there.
Here are the exact troubleshooting steps from WFCO's WF-8900 Series Troubleshooting Form:

WF-8900 Series Testing Procedure

Disconnect battery to isolate the converter. Is battery disconnected:____Yes/No? Plug the shore cord into 30 or 50 Aac service as required. Is shore cord plugged into 30/50 Aac:______Yes/No?

Verify 120Vac is being delivered to the converter. Measure across the output of the breaker (black wire) providing power to the converter and Neutral Terminal Bar (white wire): Voltage at the Converter:_____Vac.

Turn off the converter's breaker. Pull the reverse protection fuse(s) from the fuse board and measue the fuse continuity:_____/_____Ohms.

Turn the breaker on and measure the voltage across the +Vcc and Neg- lugs:_____Vdc.

Replace the reverse protection fuse(s). Measure across the Pos+ and Neg- lugs:_____Vdc.

Do the lights work:_____Yes/No? Explain:______________________________________
______________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________

**AN RGA MUST BE ASSIGNED BEFORE RETURNING PRODUCT FOR WARRANTY**
StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS
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NoDak View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2017 at 10:22pm
That's a GREAT answer, StephenH! Thank you!
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Danielw1 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2017 at 11:04pm
Off subject a little but, as simple as the converter is i would expect to get many trouble free years out of it
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2017 at 7:02am
Originally posted by Danielw1

Off subject a little but, as simple as the converter is i would expect to get many trouble free years out of it


WFCO seems to have had a bad run of them. Can happen. Most run forever. The one in our Airstream is almost 40 years old, works fine.
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2017 at 8:33am
A power surge that we might not notice might push a marginal converter over the edge. I don't know if that is what happened with ours. I don't know why it failed, just that it did during our trip. If it had happened at home, I would have been able to get the replacement done and not have had to purchase one. I will have a spare once WFCO replaces the one that went bad.

Update 8/7/2017:
WFCO did replace the defective converter. I now have a spare. I'm debating whether to keep it as a spare or to sell it and recoup at least part of the cost of what I spent to fix this problem.
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

ouR escaPOD mods
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