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GlueGuy
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Topic: Vampires and multimeters Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 8:56am |
I'm with Paul on this.
First, what size batteries are we talking about here? Are they the GC2 200+ AH batteries, or are they something else.
Second, what is the load as measured at the battery terminals? The simplest way to do this is to insert an ammeter between the two 6V batteries. Alternatively, if you have a DC clamp-on meter, you could use that.
There is no way that a couple of 1 watt loads will drain a pair of GC2 batteries overnight unless there is something wrong with the batteries, or they are not completely charged. Otherwise, you are looking at a load that is measured in several amps (not milliamps).
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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost
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pgoelz
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Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 9:49am |
Originally posted by GlueGuy
There is no way that a couple of 1 watt loads will drain a pair of GC2 batteries overnight unless there is something wrong with the batteries, or they are not completely charged. Otherwise, you are looking at a load that is measured in several amps (not milliamps).
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If we are talking about a healthy 200+ AH battery, an overnight steady state discharge would be AT LEAST 10A and more likely 15-20A. That would be something that would make NOISE if it was mechanical and would make HEAT (10A is 120W at 12V) if it was simply resistive. I think I read that electric brakes are in the vicinity of 8-20A, so they could be a prime suspect. Check their temperatures after a couple hours parked in "camping" mode?
Does the water pump work normally? Does it cycle on and off when you open a tap? Is it cold after several hours in "camping" mode?
Are you POSITIVE the refer does not run on 12V??
Like we have said, the problem is probably simple. But remote diagnosis isn't ;)
Paul
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Retiree-Pod
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Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 11:29am |
GLBCamper, In one of your past posts you mention bypass. I am interpreting this as a battery disconnect. I have found it handy to leave my battery disconnect in the off or open position and then place the leads from my ammeter across the open disconnect switch. This measures total battery load and is a quick and handy way to check while in driveway or while camping. As someone else mentioned, if the load is more than your multimeter fuse, it would blow. Try just touching your meter leads across the open battery disconnect switch and if you have an OL or overload condition for the meter remove the leads.
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GLBCamper
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Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 4:29pm |
Yes, POSITIVE fridge does not have a 12v option. True confessions, if you look at my signature I no longer own the pod. I just find "pod people" to be imminently more helpful and I'm used to you guys!
The battery disconnect switch is inside the unit 20 ft. away from the batteries so I can't measure both with my multimeter.
My batteries are two 6v ACDelco GC2-107. I'm not sure what that means in terms of group or amp hours.
I only turn the water pump switch on when needed so it's not coming on periodically due to pressure loss. It seems to be working normally.
The unit has been in my driveway for over a week. I just went and measured the brakes using a laser thermometer and the temp was 95 degrees (ambient temp 91 is degrees.) Pin is not pulled.
I know it seems like an arduous way to go about it, but I added the fridge yesterday and am currently measuring daily to see what kind of loss I get.
All of your suggestions are appreciated.
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Old: 2014 177 HRE
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GlueGuy
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Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 4:50pm |
Boy, those are obscure batteries. Looked all over the place to get a 20 hour rate in amp-hours. I "think" I found them, and they are 208 AH. That gives you approximately 1,248 watt-hours for one, or 2,496 watt-hours for both batteries (100% discharge). If they are really deep cycle, then you can safely discharge them 50%, or 1,248 watt-hours.
Assuming your parasitic load is 2 watts, that should give you over 3 weeks usage. That ain't what you got.
If you're discharging in 24 hours, then you have something in the neighborhood of a 20 amp load. Things should be getting HOT, and I mean HOT!
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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost
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GLBCamper
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Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 5:24pm |
OK, Idiot question, but can the converter draw amps when not connected to shore power? I thought the converter served only to convert AC (shore power) to DC (to charge the batteries.) But can, or does, it draw amps or serve any purpose when NOT on shore power?
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Old: 2014 177 HRE
2015 Tacoma V6 4x4 Double Cab
New: 2016 EVO ATS 200rd
2016 F150 4x4 Sport
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pgoelz
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Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 5:29pm |
Originally posted by GLBCamper
My batteries are two 6v ACDelco GC2-107. I'm not sure what that means in terms of group or amp hours.
I only turn the water pump switch on when needed so it's not coming on periodically due to pressure loss. It seems to be working normally.
The unit has been in my driveway for over a week. I just went and measured the brakes using a laser thermometer and the temp was 95 degrees (ambient temp 91 is degrees.) Pin is not pulled.
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OK, so we're not talking about an Rpod. In that case, I don't know what specific questions to ask about installed equipment, but I'd be happy to keep trying. But without some specific current consumption measurements at the battery, we're just taking pot shots in the dark. Put an ammeter across the open battery cutoff and measure the current in camping mode. That will tell you in seconds whether you have a parasitic drain or a battery issue.
I can't find an exact match for that battery but it LOOKS like it is a 230AH golf cart battery. So plenty of capacity if that is what they are and they are healthy. A big IF. IF the batteries are healthy and fully charged, anything that can drain them overnight is drawing a LOT of power and almost certainly will either make noise or get hot.
If the unit has been in the driveway for a week, has the battery been connected all that time? What was the voltage before / after? What loads were connected? And was the brake system connected as well?
Paul
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furpod
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Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 5:48pm |
Originally posted by GLBCamper
OK, Idiot question, but can the converter draw amps when not connected to shore power? I thought the converter served only to convert AC (shore power) to DC (to charge the batteries.) But can, or does, it draw amps or serve any purpose when NOT on shore power? |
The converter/charger only works, and is only energized when 120v is present. It does not do anything, nor is it energized, just like everything else 120v when 120v is not present.
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GLBCamper
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Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 5:50pm |
Originally posted by furpod
Originally posted by GLBCamper
OK, Idiot question, but can the converter draw amps when not connected to shore power? I thought the converter served only to convert AC (shore power) to DC (to charge the batteries.) But can, or does, it draw amps or serve any purpose when NOT on shore power? |
The converter/charger only works, and is only energized when 120v is present. It does not do anything, nor is it energized, just like everything else 120v when 120v is not present.
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I thunked right!
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Old: 2014 177 HRE
2015 Tacoma V6 4x4 Double Cab
New: 2016 EVO ATS 200rd
2016 F150 4x4 Sport
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GLBCamper
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Location: Oregon
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Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 6:00pm |
Originally posted by pgoelz
Put an ammeter across the open battery cutoff and measure the current in camping mode. That will tell you in seconds whether you have a parasitic drain or a battery issue. Paul |
Honestly I feel like an absolute idiot here, but I have a multimeter and not an ammeter, which should do the job, but I'm confused what you mean by "across the open battery cutoff."
It's been parked since July 29th but I plugged it into 30A on August 7th for 24hrs. Charge after being unplugged for 6 hours to allow for decay was 12.93.
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Old: 2014 177 HRE
2015 Tacoma V6 4x4 Double Cab
New: 2016 EVO ATS 200rd
2016 F150 4x4 Sport
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