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kansasfrogs View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote kansasfrogs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: solar panels
    Posted: 27 Jun 2021 at 4:38pm
I have the Renogy 100 watt 42x20 solar panel.  It came with cable to the controller and to the battery, but how do I get it hooked into the "solar ready" port on the side of the Pod?  Do I have to buy more or different cable? Adaptors?  I am presuming that once I get it plugged into the port, that it will go through the inverter?converter? already in the camper?  First time trying thisWacko I found these on amazon. does this look like anything I need?
FROGGY
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Colt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 1:07am
That *might* be just what you need. The MC4 connectors are common/normal for solar systems so it might be just what connects to your charge controller. The SAE connectors are what Zamp ports use, but check the polarity carefully. Mine is opposite of what I expected.
John
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Post Options Post Options   Quote kansasfrogs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 7:57am
Thank you for your response.  Have a wonderful summer!  Liz

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Post Options Post Options   Quote podwerkz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 8:00am
You still need to install a solar charge controller or provide one externally.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 8:50am
The solar ready port is just a connection to the battery. The solar charge controller manages it's own charging, the rpod converter is not involved.

So, you don't need to use that charge port, and many (most?) people don't. It tends to just add more wire resistance losses between your solar module and your battery. You can just connect directly between the solar charge controller and the battery via an inline or bolt on fuse at the battery + terminal. The charge controller can be mounted by the battery or in an adjacent storage compartment if you want.

If you do use the existing charge port take heed of the reverse polarity warning and use a voltmeter to be sure you get it right before connecting. It's been deliberately wired reverse to normal for that SAE connector type so that ppl think they have to buy a Zamp solar kit.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote kansasfrogs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2021 at 9:22am
Thanks for all the info! Liz
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2021 at 7:15am
The picture you included does show a gender reverser plug in the middle of the coil at the top-left. Use a voltmeter so you know which terminal in your RPod is positive and which is negative (If you touch red lead to one connector and black to another and the reading is positive (e.g. 13.5v), you have the correct polarity. If you get a negative reading (e.g. -13.5v) then the polarity of the plug is opposite of what you connected. Switch the connection of your meter and verify that you get a positive reading with red and black leads. Note which connection is positive. Check the SAE connector on the wire shown above. If the red is going to plug in so red aligns with positive, fine. If not, then use the gender reverser plug to be able to flip the connection around so the red will connect to positive and the black to negative.

What I typed sounds complicated, but when you get out there with a meter, it will make sense and be very easy.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote kansasfrogs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2021 at 2:06pm
Thanks! I am still learning all this stuff and don't want to ruin a battery or worse!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2021 at 6:12am
The advice to always use a voltmeter to confirm is sound. You never know who or when the wiring could have been screwed up by someone. There is a lot of confusion because there are two different wire color standards used for 12v systems in RVs. One is the old automotive standard, red pos, black neg. The other is the national electric code standard which, just like in your house, has black or red hot (in this case positive) and white neutral (in this case negative). You will find the original internal wiring in the trailer following this standard, as the NEC does apply to RVs.

This is all so confusing to some folks that things end up wired wrong on RVs a lot. That often leads to what we call "finding out where they hid the smoke". So, use the voltmeter to confirm what you have, assume nothing, and don't add to confusion for yourself or the next owner by messing up the color code further, use either one or the other standard and stick to it.

The other thing folks do a lot is not put in the correct fuses and or circuit breakers when they wire things in their 12v system. 12v battery systems are probably more of a fire safety concern that 120v systems because of the high currents available. But for whatever reason some people who would never dream of bypassing a breaker in their home panel board think they don't need fuses or circuit breakers on their 12v RV circuits. Totally wrong and a Code violation.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote TEDDY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jul 2021 at 8:45pm
I have 2 100 watt flex solar panels feeding a 30 amp charge controller, with alligator clips from the controller to the 12 v battery.  Why do I need an in-line fuse between the charge controller and the battery?
Teddy
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