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Topic ClosedHeretical Thoughts on "Winterizing"

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Podsible Dream View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Heretical Thoughts on "Winterizing"
    Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 5:24pm
I have a heretical thought (one of many, being a procrastinator, trained in the sciences, and somewhat averse to work that isn't needed):
Why is is necessary to add antifreeze to the various tanks under the Pod for the winter?
My general chemistry courses from many years ago learned me about the colligative properties of solutions (if you add particles to a liquid mixture or solution, it changes the physical propoerties of the solution). This is why a water and ice mixture is colder when one adds salt to the mixture. When water and water based solutions freeze, they expand. So we have the experience of pipes bursting in the winter (in the northern part of the country, I know this isn't a problem on San Padre Island!). However, pipes burst because the ice has no where to go but out, and so the pipe or tubing is split open. The same phenomenon occurs when one makes ice cubes in the freezer, only now the water can expand and the tray doesn't burst - because there is no top on the ice cube tray.
So, in effect the black, gray and fresh water tanks under the pod are large ice cube trays. We don't store them full to the top over the winter, most of us empty them completely - or as completely as we can. Therefore, any freezing of the contents is going to be of a minor quantity of liquid (and the black tank has a high level of particles in it and may not freeze until very, very cold.:) ) That means there is really not any problem with tanks bursting.
So why dump expensive pink stuff in the tanks, worry about contaminating the drinking water supply on your pod or making a mess of your hot water heater? Or keeping the black tank sludge in a liquid state?
The same could be pointed out about the water tubing. If one uses air to blow out the lines, thus emptying them, why fill them back up with the pink stuff only to flush it away in the spring? If you leave the faucets and shower open and the HW heater anode out, there is plenty of room for any residual water to expand and not burst the PEX tubing due to the pressure buildup.

Maybe I miss something, but we seem to spend hours (and dollars) winterizing and de-winterizing, when perhaps it isn't necessary.
Walt
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 6:27pm
I agree with you. I bypass the water heater, then drain it and the tanks. No antifreeze. It really does seem like a waste, lots of room in the tanks for a tiny bit of ice to sit over the winter. I don't actually recall anyone recommending you add antifreeze to the tanks or water heater. If they did I missed it, and I stand corrected.

As for the lines, I blow them out with low pressure, but I feel more comfortable running a gallon of red pop through afterwards just to displace any residual water that may possibly re-pool in the low spots. Then I blow the red pop out after that. If a little bit of antifreeze stays behind, pffft.

In the spring, just fill the fresh water tank, run the faucet for a bit and you're good to go.

I followed this same procedure on my boats for 20 years and it never caused a problem. The proof is in the, whaddayasay ... pudding. Or something like that. Whatever.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 6:29pm
Originally posted by Podsible Dream

I have a heretical thought (one of many, being a procrastinator, trained in the sciences, and somewhat averse to work that isn't needed):
Why is is necessary to add antifreeze to the various tanks under the Pod for the winter?
My general chemistry courses from many years ago learned me about the colligative properties of solutions (if you add particles to a liquid mixture or solution, it changes the physical propoerties of the solution). This is why a water and ice mixture is colder when one adds salt to the mixture. When water and water based solutions freeze, they expand. So we have the experience of pipes bursting in the winter (in the northern part of the country, I know this isn't a problem on San Padre Island!). However, pipes burst because the ice has no where to go but out, and so the pipe or tubing is split open. The same phenomenon occurs when one makes ice cubes in the freezer, only now the water can expand and the tray doesn't burst - because there is no top on the ice cube tray.
So, in effect the black, gray and fresh water tanks under the pod are large ice cube trays. We don't store them full to the top over the winter, most of us empty them completely - or as completely as we can. Therefore, any freezing of the contents is going to be of a minor quantity of liquid (and the black tank has a high level of particles in it and may not freeze until very, very cold.:) ) That means there is really not any problem with tanks bursting.
So why dump expensive pink stuff in the tanks, worry about contaminating the drinking water supply on your pod or making a mess of your hot water heater? Or keeping the black tank sludge in a liquid state? I can just about guarantee that my tanks are not 100% empty - I don't think they ever are.  As my camper sits now, there is likely a small amount of "residual" combined with a small amount of the "pink stuff" - when I filled the drain traps.  I agree - as long as there is room for any freezing liquid to expand, the tanks will not burst (mine never have).  I don't intentionally put pink in the tanks - just whatever happens to get in there - which is a small amount.
The same could be pointed out about the water tubing. If one uses air to blow out the lines, thus emptying them, why fill them back up with the pink stuff only to flush it away in the spring? If you leave the faucets and shower open and the HW heater anode out, there is plenty of room for any residual water to expand and not burst the PEX tubing due to the pressure buildup.  I have spoken with folks who use only the compressed air/draining approach.  As far as I can tell, it is an acceptable method, as long as one is very thorough in evacuating the water from the pipes.  Those who do so also remove the traps from the drains and empty that water - also stuffing a rag (or something) in the pipe to prevent foul odors from entering the cabin.

Maybe I miss something, but we seem to spend hours (and dollars) winterizing and de-winterizing, when perhaps it isn't necessary.
Walt
 
The above are my thoughts and observations.  I find nothing wrong with your reasoning, as long as one does a very thorough job.  Personally, I do both - blow out the lines and then pump in the pink stuff.  Why....it's about $10, half an hour of my time and, I sleep better at night when the temps are hovering at zero or below.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 9:21pm
As long as you drain all 3 tanks underneath, you don't need to add any antifreeze for the reason you state - lots of room for expansion for the little bit of liquid left.

Part of winterizing is to bypass the water heater so no antifreeze will enter the hot water tank. As for the water lines I can tell you with 100% certainty that blowing them out with air will not get out all of the water. It will still be sitting in the faucet valves, in low points of the tubing, and definitely in the water pump since air blown in from the city connection will never go through the pump. Even after blowing my lines out, during the process of running antifreeze out of each valve I always see lots of water before I start seeing pink. Hate to say it, you gotta use the pink stuff.

You can find a thorough checklist for winterization here:

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=846&PID=8073

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 9:30pm
I don't know about "hours" but it does cost $6 or so for the anti freeze.

I drain the holding tanks leaving the last campground of the season, use the pump to empty the last of the water from the fresh water tank, and then use the air blow method when we get home.

I pour a little pink stuff in the drains, and since it is so easy, pump it through all the lines with the pump. I HAVE seen shattered lines and a water heater, and really don't want to mess with that again. It literally takes 5 minutes, and I fear no 5 degree days or nights. Our camping buddies discovered they missed their outside shower last year.. $40+ to fix it, and that was just parts. I can pump the red juice a lot of years for that..

YMMV.

My dad lives in the California central valley.. in 35 years, he has never winterized. He just puts a little electric heater in the RV.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 10:15pm
Just another thought    ...if you keep a small heater inside the camper those lines and tanks won't get nearly as cold (or frozen) as they otherwise might. The Pod is our second camper and in addition to emptying the tanks and blowing out the lines we run a small ceramic heater on the low setting. The temp inside the camper rarely go below 45 degrees or so.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 8:20am
Running a little ceramic heater is fine, but down here in the south we tend to lose power if we have a snowstorm.  A few hours without power could make the temp in the pod drop pretty fast.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 8:38am
Originally posted by Podsible Dream

I have a heretical thought (one of many, being a procrastinator, trained in the sciences, and somewhat averse to work that isn't needed):
Why is is necessary to add antifreeze to the various tanks under the Pod for the winter?
My general chemistry courses from many years ago learned me about the colligative properties of solutions (if you add particles to a liquid mixture or solution, it changes the physical propoerties of the solution). This is why a water and ice mixture is colder when one adds salt to the mixture. When water and water based solutions freeze, they expand. So we have the experience of pipes bursting in the winter (in the northern part of the country, I know this isn't a problem on San Padre Island!). However, pipes burst because the ice has no where to go but out, and so the pipe or tubing is split open. The same phenomenon occurs when one makes ice cubes in the freezer, only now the water can expand and the tray doesn't burst - because there is no top on the ice cube tray.
So, in effect the black, gray and fresh water tanks under the pod are large ice cube trays. We don't store them full to the top over the winter, most of us empty them completely - or as completely as we can. Therefore, any freezing of the contents is going to be of a minor quantity of liquid (and the black tank has a high level of particles in it and may not freeze until very, very cold.:) ) That means there is really not any problem with tanks bursting.
So why dump expensive pink stuff in the tanks, worry about contaminating the drinking water supply on your pod or making a mess of your hot water heater? Or keeping the black tank sludge in a liquid state?
The same could be pointed out about the water tubing. If one uses air to blow out the lines, thus emptying them, why fill them back up with the pink stuff only to flush it away in the spring? If you leave the faucets and shower open and the HW heater anode out, there is plenty of room for any residual water to expand and not burst the PEX tubing due to the pressure buildup.

Maybe I miss something, but we seem to spend hours (and dollars) winterizing and de-winterizing, when perhaps it isn't necessary.
Walt
 
Who ever said it was nesessary?  As long as they're empty and you don't plan on using the dump valve at freezing temps or below, no reason to waste antifreeze.  By default during the winterization process, you'll end up with some pink stuff in the grey and black tanks anyway.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 9:04am
Originally posted by Footslogger03

Just another thought    ...if you keep a small heater inside the camper those lines and tanks won't get nearly as cold (or frozen) as they otherwise might. The Pod is our second camper and in addition to emptying the tanks and blowing out the lines we run a small ceramic heater on the low setting. The temp inside the camper rarely go below 45 degrees or so.

MJ


I would submit, in the original vein of the OP's question, money was involved.. that running a small heater in Wyoming all winter will cost more than the gallon and a half of anti freeze I used this year..

But, and we don't get near as cold here.. we will leave a small heater out there all winter also. Just in case. and yes, I am one of those guys who has backups for my backups...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 10:42am
You beat me to it - electric element heat is expensive.  You'll spend less on 2 gallons of RV antifreeze @ 3.50 per bottle than running a heater all winter (and if you do it right you'll only use one of the bottles, but better to have two on hand just in case you need 1/8 of a gallon more to finish the job).
 
Worse, the electric heater will not protect the exposed water lines, and may not even protect all of the parts inside of the pod at very cold temps unless you open up all compartments like the one where the water heater is stored.  You would have to box in the area under the pod and add a 2nd heater there to take care of the exposed lines... increasing the cost even more and taking way more time than the 5-10 minutes it takes to winterize properly.
 
Use the pink stuff, save money, save time, save worry.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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