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Topic Closedwinterizing

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jmwv View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: winterizing
    Posted: 17 Oct 2015 at 12:39pm
I am winterizing the pod today. 2016 178. The low water drain I cannot get to come off, and there is no extra tubing to place in antifreeze.   Any help will be appreciated.
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Mountainrev View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2015 at 2:33pm
Have you ever drained the tank before?  If it's new and the drain cap has not been removed yet, I found with mine that Forest River uses a very liberal amount of expanding foam to seal it in, which got onto the cap itself.  It was a bit difficult the first time, but not bad after that.  Use a pair of pliers or vice grips if necessary (but be careful not to crush it, of course!).  Don't forget that there are two drains--one for the fresh water tank, and one under the sink in the kitchen. 

You say there is no "extra tubing" for the antifreeze.  Did you access the tubes near the water pump?  There should be a length of tubing (about 14" long or so) with a valve that you place inside a gallon of the pink antifreeze.  Open the valve and then run the faucets and flush the toilet until pink comes through.

I have read that Forest River did not put this winterizing tube/valve on some older models, for some reason.  I see that you have a 2016, but I guess it's possible that you don't have one.  In that case, I guess you'd just have to disconnect the hose that leads from the fresh water tank to the pump, and place the end into your antifreeze container.

Hope that answers your questions. 
2014 177
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"I lift my eyes to the hills."
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2015 at 8:07pm
  Mountainrev: It sounds like you are confusing the low water drains with the fresh water tank drain.  The tank does need to be drained, but that isn't the low water drain.  In fact, there are two low water drains, one for the hot water and one for the cold.  They are usually right behind the axle on the street side of the pod.  There should be a decal indicating their location.  The cap on the water tank drains the tank.  The low water drains let (almost) all of the water out of the plumbing pipes.  The "almost" is the reason to use antifreeze.

  The water tank needs to be drained for the winter, but, at least arguably (someone on the forum says he never opens the low water drains) the low water drains need be opened too.  Your advice about how to get the caps off is good.

  There is more to winterizing than I'm getting into here, but as far as the low water drains are concerned, take the caps off, open the faucets in the kitchen and bath, and flush the toilet so that the plumbing isn't vacuum locked and all the water will drain.  Drain the water heater too.  Some people like to blow out the lines with low pressure air in the city water intake. 

Put the caps back on low the water drains, then do the antifreeze thing.  I agree with you on that too.  Why FR would skip the antifreeze tube on some models is a mystery to me, but apparently they did.  On my 176 the antifreeze intake is directly under the sink.

TT
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2015 at 10:49pm
I have never removed the low water drains, but I blow out the lines very thoroughly and use antifreeze.  I don't necessarily recommend not removing the drains, but the first year my dealer winterized this for me and didn't remove the drains either.  They are still buried in the foam.
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pnwcamper View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2015 at 10:52am
I will be winterizing my R-pod for the first time when the weather gets cold enough that the pipes may freeze. I live at low elevation in the PNW (Oregon) so most of the time freezing temps will be temporary.

When it is not freezing my plan is to go out on trips at least once a month. That being said I could be winterizing the pod several times through the winter when the temperature warrant.

Seems for my situation using the compressed air method to winterize is my best option as I will be putting water back in the system when it is above freezing several time throughout the winter.

My question is, do you think using the compressed air method (done properly) and not adding anti freezing (other than the drains) is sufficient for winterizing the system?

Does anyone else use this method?

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2015 at 11:57am
do you think using the compressed air method (done properly) and not adding anti freezing (other than the drains) is sufficient for winterizing the system?

I've tried blowing out my lines several times over the years; there always seems to be a little bit of water left in there sputtering around no matter what I do.  In the end, I just pump in the pink stuff.
Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2015 at 12:15pm
Thanks Outbound!

I guess I am wondering if there is anyone here that uses the air method with success. From my experience (a little) water that freezes, as long as it is only a little bit, will not damage anything. (Little bit being a relative term).

Water expands when frozen but if there is room to expand it will not damage anything.

Thanks
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2015 at 6:56pm
My usual answer to this often-asked question:  you will never get the water out of the valve seats or the low spots in the PEX.  The later isn't a huge problem since the PEX will expand some and there is room to expand in 2 directions, but the valves will freeze and crack.  You may get lucky for a year or two but eventually it will happen.  You can skip the air if you want (you'll use more antifreeze), but don't skip the antifreeze.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 10:57am
Thanks techntrek, I have read many of your posts and appreciate your opinion. Sound like I may want to be "better safe than sorry" and use the antifreeze method.

I pulled the cover off my bed and found the water pump and figured out what the extra hose was that was in my storage compartment. See image.

I assume I would unscrew the (in line) from my on-board water tank (see photo) and replace it with the short hose which I would put into my gallon of antifreeze. Then go through your winterizing suggestions.
uploads/4646/hose.JPG
uploads/4646/Water-pump1.jpg

I also found this video that does suggest the air compressor method is an option but I think I'll subcribe to "Better safe then sorry".
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anVeFfQdYkw


Thanks

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 11:06am
The winterization checklist has been revised at the suggestion of Q7-retired. A few steps have been reversed to ensure the WH doesn't have pressure in it when you remove the anode rod.

It now mentions that some models didn't come with that short hose, and some require you to remove the water intake line. That wasn't true when the list was originally created.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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