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Olddawgsrule View Drop Down
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Posts: 1014 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Battery Drain
    Posted: 08 Jun 2020 at 4:10pm
Originally posted by Tibof

When I said batteries seemed to test good, I meant they have passed voltage, continuity and load.  I was attempting to move on from there. They are Interstate 27,  4 years old and well maintained.  Stored inside each winter on a battery minder.  I will now proceed to test all other possibilities.  I was hoping it might be something obvious that others have experienced.  Everyone's input is appreciated.  

I've had my LA's gone well over 10yrs, at reduced capacity mind ya, they do wear down. My last were 15yrs old as I traded the cores in. I am a firm believer that batteries (at least Pba's) need to be used, constantly. Even letting them just sit over the winter to me is hurting them. Just me and what I do.. I keep a low draw on them and cycle dis-charge/charge through the winter.

I still recommend going through the charge cycle and giving the battery a solid rest period and checking. If issues show themselves, do test per cell. If you've done this already.. What were the readings?

My impression, with many unknowns, if this battery is dis-charging without any draw on it, you have corrosion inside (basically a short). Cell testing will show this.

Do let us know how this goes and what you've done.
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Toyanvil View Drop Down
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Posts: 157 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2020 at 7:12pm
I would start with unhooking the battery so it is stand alone and see if it drains down, if it does the battery is bad. If it is okay I would hook up only the + cable to the battery and not the - cable, then hook up a multimeter to the - side of the battery and - cable end checking for volts (the higher the volts, the higher the draw) if your volts are close to 12 volts remove the DC fuses one at a time checking volts, when you get to the problem the volts will drop on the multimeter. That will let you know what circuit is the draw. I hope this makes sense.
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Tibof View Drop Down
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Posts: 115 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 10:51am
The problem is refrigerator related (converter is new PD replacement).  When on shore power, the problem occurred.  On propane, the batteries come up and stay up.  Out for a week with no issues as long was fridge is on propane.  Now have to diagnose further.  Toyanvil has the right approach IMHO.  I have the instruments.  
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 11:04am
If you have a dc current meter that will work better because you can quantify how much current is flowing. If you only have a voltmeter you can use toyanvil's approach to see which circuits have a load on them. But with a modern digital voltmeter the internal resistance of the meter is high (more than a megohm) so you don't see a difference between a large current load and a small one. 
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Colt View Drop Down
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Posts: 383 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 4:32pm
I have a battery cut-off that cures that.  In addition to the antenna booster, the radio/clock pulls power and the CO detector apparently does, too.  Your 'fridge should have an off button that completely turns it off.  Does it not? 
John
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podwerkz View Drop Down
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Posts: 966 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 11:27pm
Originally posted by offgrid

Podwerk's facetious point was I think that you didn't give us a whole lot of information so we could help you.

Happy to help, just need a bit more to go on. 

Yep...when the question is so vague that we have to ask a lot of questions... or make a lot of random guesses. 

We aren't mind readers. Well, not me anyway. 
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Tibof View Drop Down
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Posts: 115 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2020 at 1:43pm
I really don't know why we have to return to this at this point, but if we must, let's reread my original post.  There is nothing vague about it, except for someone who is truly obtuse. And if it was actually not understood as an attempt to get beyond batteries, then a question would have easily sufficed, as opposed to a snotty response intended as a condescending put-down.  Meanwhile, throughout the discussion, even after I explained further, podwerkz has had nothing to offer. Aside from all that, I very much appreciate all of the other civil inquiries and insights.
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Posts: 1446 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2020 at 2:20pm
You say the problem is fridge related.  In my opinion, the fridge should never be run on battery power.  It uses way too much juice and will run just about any battery down in hours.  A/C or propane is the only way to go.

Beyond that, if you don't find someone's reply helpful, speaking just for myself, I'd just as soon you ignored it.

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Tibof View Drop Down
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Posts: 115 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2020 at 5:49pm
The fridge was not running on battery.  As noted, it was on shore power.  Then, when on propane, all was well.  The kids used that mode out for last week and all was good.  Now to return to a more complete diagnosis in the week ahead.  As for ignoring an unhelpful post, check out the thread from the beginning.  I tried to move on politely to the genuine comments of others.  But as you can see, sometimes that does not work.
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Posts: 6297 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2020 at 7:54pm
Originally posted by Tibof

Batteries seem to test good.  But quickly go down.  I know that could mean a large variety of issues, but I would like to hear any ideas out there.  Perhaps there's something I have not addressed.  Batteries run through an on/off switch that I'll hafta tear apart.  Otherwise I can't think of anything.  So if you have an idea, throw it my way and I'll say thanks in advance.
I know that to you, your post seems rather obvious. However, after reading all the posts, I agree that to someone not familiar with your setup and situation, it is rather vague.
"Batteries seem to test good"
Seem to? How are you testing? Are you using a voltmeter, specific gravity tester, taking them somewhere for a load test?

"I know that it could mean a large variety of issues . . . ."
Yes, that is true. What have you checked and have you been able to rule anything out?

"Batteries run through an on/off switch that I'll hafta tear apart."
Battery cut-off switches, especially the cheap ones have been known to go bad. This is definitely something to check. The one I bought is a better quality one, https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUUL9W/ which has performed very well since I bought it in 2016.

What is the situation that makes you say they go down quickly? What battery setup do you have? Is it a single group 24 battery or dual 6V batteries connected in series? Is the converter charging the battery/batteries properly? Is this discharge while it is sitting unused? Have you taken into account things like the antenna booster (make sure it is off unless being used by you), the CO/LP detector (can't be disconnected), the radio? The refrigerator does have power going to it as does the thermostat. All these individually might not draw much power, but together, it can add up. If the trailer is sitting unplugged, these continue to drain the battery if not disconnected. Pb-Acid batteries also self-discharge.

StephenH
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