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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Winterization
    Posted: 05 May 2017 at 9:04am

I'll echo the thoughts of others...the process has been followed by many, many others and there have been no issues. I've winterized a time or two over the decades and do not see a problem with it.

No, Techntrek does not own a RV service company. Nothing even close. Personally, I have found him to be extremely intelligent and reliable.

I can't help but think that there is some info/details missing in your post....something was done differently during the winterization process. Otherwise, we would all have busted water heaters and toilet seals????

May I suggest that a better approach to the issue might be to ask: "Why did this happen to (only) me?"
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 9:26am
+1 to David's and others' comments. Seems like there is some confusion in the system. Re the anode: makes no difference after emptying the WH. Antifreeze or not there will be no damage if the anode is in or out. Re the low point drain caps: If I air alone is used I would leave them open AFTER I had blown out all the other lines with them in place. Condensation can accumulate at the low points over the winter and an exit path should be provided. If antifreeze is used I would leave the caps in place. Obviously the caps should be in place while pumping antifreeze to the rest of the plumbing. As a general rule, whether air or antifreeze, I would leave all faucets open except the low point drains. Anything "closed" will allow freeze/thaw condensation to accumulate. For a demonstration of this leave a closed plastic milk jug or 5 gallon gas container out in the sun over a winter. Check it next spring and you'll find water in it. The same is true for a partially filled gas can which is how we get water in our gas cans. 
Charlie
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Posts: 1045 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 10:46am
followed techntreks advice/instructions since day one and have never had a problem. hogone
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Posts: 2589 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 1:07pm
I joined this site last year when we bought our pod.  I've followed technical advice I found on this site and have never had an issue, including winterization.  Indeed, it has been extraordinarily helpful and I am grateful to those who have taken the time to share their experiences.

I have to confess, we live in a USDA zone 7 climate so our winters don't generally go below 10º but it's cold enough to freeze stuff.  I made sure I had antifreeze in the the fresh water system, including to the point that pure antifreeze came out of the toilet flush water, thus indicating the valve was filled with pink stuff.  I also poured a little into the toilet bowl, more to keep the seal wet than to prevent freezing.  I left the anode rod out, but mostly because I was too lazy to put it back until I was ready to flush out the hot water heater to clear it of scale, black widows, scorpions, and an occasional wintering rattle snake.

In my experience with the dealer, though I like them and complimented them, I've found that their technicians are not the best and the brightest.  I had to redo much of the work they did because it was done wrong.  At one point, I had to hire a local shop to trace a ground fault caused by lousy work by the dealer's tech.  [That being said, the dealer did have the integrity to reimburse me in full.]

One thing I have found working on things like travel trailers and sailboats is that you have to be mechanically skilled and technically inclined to do the work correctly.  If you're not, it's easy to misunderstand the directions and mess it up.  And if you mess it up, perhaps the fault lies in your erroneous understanding of the instructions or in the execution of the work... or both.  [In fact, even if you are technically inclined, it's easy to misunderstand instructions, particularly from Ikea.]  So, all that being said, if something goes wrong on work I've done on our pod, the mirror is the first place I look to find someone to blame.
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 1:53pm
Originally posted by lostagain

.... mechanically skilled and technically inclined....

I like that phrase and it's 100% true. With your permission, I'll liberate that phrase for future use. Wink
Charlie
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Posts: 6128 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 2:00pm
Originally posted by macnim

When winterizong all drains must remain open. Nope, simply not true. In fact "all drains must remain open" implies the gray and black tanks should be open also.. Not only wrong, illegal.

The anode rod needs to be removed and stored for the winter.  Nope. Once the WH is empty, there is no danger of any damage. Since it's empty.. there is nothing to freeze and damage it. I always replace the anode, and reset the bypass valves to summer position as the last steps. Saves having to remember to do it in the spring.

By keeping the low point drains closed the moisture that naturally occurs during the winter melts and freezes ergo the toilet seal cracked. Still don't know what "toilet seal" you are talking about, but no moisture "naturally occurs" inside the plumbing it's a closed system, and if it did, it wouldn't migrate UP to the toilet, it would migrate DOWN.. to the low points. Gravity and all that.

If you leave the drains open the moisture has a place to escape.  The only moisture that would need to escape would be that moisture that was left by whoever did the winterization and not fully flushing with antifreeze.

The post is so wrong for those of us living where the winter is real real winter, according to the experts who service R pods.  I do not now, but can assure you, I have lived where there is real winter. Places where we had fresh snow.. on the 4th of July


I am sorry you had issues, but they were not the fault of the instructions and guidance freely given here.

As a point of reference, I don't own a shop or work on RV's for a living, but, I have probably worked on, repaired and/or modded more pods then just about anyone outside of the factory or a large dealership. They don't call my barn Pod-Mod-Central for nothing.. LOL
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Posts: 6128 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 2:05pm
Originally posted by macnim

I give up just wanted to let people know that following this blog can be very expensive and your right you don't know about the toilet it is plumbing related.  Reader beware go to a real web site like Forest River for advice.




Post/statement of the day right there. Thanks for the fun Friday!!!


EDIT: Had to point out this is my THREE THOUSANDTH POST!!!  what a great one to use it on!!
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lostagain View Drop Down
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Posts: 2589 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 2:07pm
CharlieM, I'm sure we can work out a mutually beneficial licensing arrangement. I'll have one of my attorneys contact you to work out the details.  😎
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Fred & Maria Kearney
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Posts: 473 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 2:49pm
Originally posted by macnim

Followed the Winterization posted by techtrek, posted Nov. 17, 2009.  This was so wrong!!!! .... I now wonder if techtrek has his own service repair company and he is drumming up business.

I am impressed at the restraint shown about this guy's post. A 'newbie' with the vast experience of 4 posts criticizing techntrek! As someone already posted, if something went wrong - First, look in the mirror!

The next post from this character should be one of abject apology to Techntrek, and to the rest of us for wasting our time.
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Posts: 1676 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 3:50pm
At least Tech took out the part about making frozen drinks with the leftover pink stuff. Star
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