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Topic ClosedWeight distribution and brake control
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Joined: 23 Nov 2012
Location: N. Colorado
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Weight distribution and brake control
    Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 11:25pm
IMO, and that of most experienced others, the 12V option on the fridge is less than worthless. Run the fridge on propane or shore power, even when towing. Perfectly OK as all larger trailers don't even have a 12V mode.

For short stays on shore power any battery will do. Don't pay for sealed or no maintenance batteries; get the one with caps and check the water periodically. True 12V deep cycle batteries are available but they cost more. Ultimately the dual 6V golfers are cheaper AmpHour for AmpHour because every golf course has 2 jillion golf carts, all requiring batteries. Sam's Club lists a Group 24 twelve volt marine battery for $75.
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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john in idaho View Drop Down
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Posts: 611 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 11:31am
If you have a AAA card check with them.  Out in the Pacific North West, one gets a nice discount at NAPA.  Usually around $10 on a battery.
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TheBum View Drop Down
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Posts: 1407 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 11:59am
Originally posted by CharlieM


Don't pay for sealed or no maintenance batteries; get the one with caps and check the water periodically.


...and carry a jug of distilled water with you when you travel so you can top off the cells if needed. I usually have distilled water anyway for my CPAP.
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TheBum View Drop Down
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Posts: 1407 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 12:01pm
Originally posted by CharlieM

The best solution is a pair of 6V GC2 golf cart batteries wired in series. The only issue might be the size of the rack on the 179. It used to be OK for the pair of GC2s in boxes but I don't know what's rolling off the factory floor now. Either way it's an easy fix if needed. Electrical hookup is the same as the 12V battery but gives you about 2.5 times as much stored energy.



As of 2016, two GC2 batteries with cases will fit fine on the rack. The lids barely make contact with the rock guard.
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cjscinta View Drop Down
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Posts: 84 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 12:43pm
Any trick to wiring them in parallel?
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 12:59pm
Originally posted by cjscinta

Any trick to wiring them in parallel?

Let me clear up some confusion. Two 12V batteries are wired in parallel; two 6V batteries are wired in series. In the diagram below the parallel  connection is circled in blue; the series connection is circled in red. In parallel you add the AH capacity but the voltage stays the same. In series you add the voltage but the AH capacity stays the same. Two 6V GC2s in series yields 12V at 220+ AH. Clear as espresso? Wink
Charlie
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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cjscinta View Drop Down
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Posts: 84 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 1:33pm
Actually that makes sense. Thanks for the diagram. So a negative to a positive to connect the two in series. Think I got it. Thanks again. Maybe I'll just go this route. 
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cjscinta View Drop Down
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Posts: 84 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 5:31pm
I just bought a 2017 179 and ordered an e2 and p3. I haven't picked it up yet but does anyone know the exact measurement from the ground to the coupler when the trailer is level? Assuming normally loaded  I need this info for the install and can't get to it to measure it. I know the ground to my receiver is 18.5. Thanks. 
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frogpod View Drop Down
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Posts: 40 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 9:36pm
We tow a 2010 RPOD 171 with a Tacoma TRD Full cab with the V6.  Also have a sway bar and use a Tekonsha brake controller.  The sway bar works well but doesn't prevent the uncomfortable "porpoising" effect.  I understand that the WDH will help with that.  I bought the truck and pod used and the receiver hitch was already on the truck and the pod came with the sway bar.  If starting from scratch, I think WDH is the way to go.  I really like the tekonsha prodigy controller, but I heard there is a new one....cannot remember the name....that works just as well but splits it up into different pieces to allow for better mounting possibilities.  Perhaps someone else can chime in that has experience with this new controller. 
Leo and Tami
with Coltrane the Jack Russell Terrier
2010 Rpod 171
2003 Toyota Tacoma TRD
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frogpod View Drop Down
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Posts: 40 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 10:16pm
You want the front of the pod slightly lower than the back, or dead level when towing.  Perhaps the dealer can tell you the height for the pod ball when level?   I needed a 6 inch drop on the ball for my Tacoma pickup truck.  My son got a hitch for his minivan to tow the pod and it needed about a six inch rise.  When the trailer is connected, the weight brings the back of the truck down a little.  He bought an adjustable one...I believe in one inch increments.  We measured and then had to drop it an inch so the adjustable feature came in handy.  Misplaced my ball and hitch and even used his upside down to tow it for fifty miles once.  Had to do the wiring for the 7 wire plugs and the brake controllers for both vehicles.  We got everything from etrailer.com....they put together packages with just what you need and prices are also very reasonable. The adjustable height hitches tend to "bang" around some.  I guess it doesn't hurt anything, but they also have an extra clamp that you can get to tighten it up and stop the banging for a couple extra bucks. If you do the wiring for the plug, make sure you get a bigger wire for the trailer charging line.  I believe 10 gauge is what is recommended.  Mine was done with 12 gauge wire, as I didn't know better at the time.  
Leo and Tami
with Coltrane the Jack Russell Terrier
2010 Rpod 171
2003 Toyota Tacoma TRD
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