Have You Done Any Mods?

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   We bought our 176T last year (towed by a Honda Ridgeline).  The dealer actually recommended we DON'T use an equalizer hitch.  We went for two trips on two consecutive weekends, and I was not happy with the performance:  there was quite a bit of rear-end "floating", which also presented some some steering control issues on twisty roads, and we had no end of oncoming traffic flashing their lights at us because they thought we were not dimming our high beams.  Both of these we're signs that an equalizer was in order.  And, in other places I have read in this forum, if your RV weight exceeds your TV weight by 50%, then an equalizer should be used.  I have heard, although I haven't confirmed it, that some US states require an equalizer if the RV weight goes past 50% of the TV weight.  Perhaps another Forum member can validate the truth in this.
I lucked into a very good used Reese equalizer hitch after the second trip, took an hour to install it and do the initial set-up, and the change it made was remarkable.  First, when it's installed, it lifts the back end of the Ridgeline over two inches.  This has made for much much easier and predictable handling characteristics   I can actually relax while driving it.  And there are no more lights flashing at me.

Your Venza and my Ridgeline also have AWD, which means that the front wheels must have their proper 
loading on the ground for proper handling and performance.

As far as a heavy lift to hook up the bars - not so.  I've never measured it, but I doubt if it's no more than a 25 pound lift.  Even if that is too much, you can still wind down your front post after the ball is coupled and use that to raise the back end of the TV an inch or so, and the lift in the torsion bars drops to just a few pounds.  Once set up, both bars are installed in less than a minute.

Simply put, installing the equalizer has been the best single thing I have done to improve handling.  

Hope this helps.

Poll Question: Have you done any mods to your R-Pod?
Poll Choice	Votes	Poll Statistics
Yes	683	[81.41%]
No	10	[1.19%]
I will be	134	[15.97%]
Factory is good for me!	10	[1.19%]
What's an R-Pod? :-)	2	[0.24%]
You can not vote in this poll

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Harry Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 10 Jul 2014 Location: Nova Scotia Online Status: Offline Posts: 38	Post Options Post Reply Quote Harry Report Post Quote Reply Topic: Have You Done Any Mods? Posted: 27 Aug 2014 at 9:19am
	We bought our 176T last year (towed by a Honda Ridgeline). The dealer actually recommended we DON'T use an equalizer hitch. We went for two trips on two consecutive weekends, and I was not happy with the performance: there was quite a bit of rear-end "floating", which also presented some some steering control issues on twisty roads, and we had no end of oncoming traffic flashing their lights at us because they thought we were not dimming our high beams. Both of these we're signs that an equalizer was in order. And, in other places I have read in this forum, if your RV weight exceeds your TV weight by 50%, then an equalizer should be used. I have heard, although I haven't confirmed it, that some US states require an equalizer if the RV weight goes past 50% of the TV weight. Perhaps another Forum member can validate the truth in this. I lucked into a very good used Reese equalizer hitch after the second trip, took an hour to install it and do the initial set-up, and the change it made was remarkable. First, when it's installed, it lifts the back end of the Ridgeline over two inches. This has made for much much easier and predictable handling characteristics I can actually relax while driving it. And there are no more lights flashing at me. Your Venza and my Ridgeline also have AWD, which means that the front wheels must have their proper loading on the ground for proper handling and performance. As far as a heavy lift to hook up the bars - not so. I've never measured it, but I doubt if it's no more than a 25 pound lift. Even if that is too much, you can still wind down your front post after the ball is coupled and use that to raise the back end of the TV an inch or so, and the lift in the torsion bars drops to just a few pounds. Once set up, both bars are installed in less than a minute. Simply put, installing the equalizer has been the best single thing I have done to improve handling. Hope this helps.
	2013 R-pod 176T TV: 2013 Honda Ridgeline 3.5 L 4WD

Harry Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 10 Jul 2014 Location: Nova Scotia Online Status: Offline Posts: 38	Post Options Post Reply Quote Harry Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 27 Aug 2014 at 8:51am
	My (unprofessional) opinion would be a "no", especially if your GVW exceeds the limits specified for tow vehicle and trailer. Suspension geometry on a vehicle won't permit a "teeter-totter" effect; adding weight to the front in an attempt to balance it will simply make everything lower. Basically, you would have to add weight ahead of the front wheels; it's simply not practical. If your tow vehicle's back end is getting too close to the ground, then all I can suggest is to reduce the tongue weight, or install an equalizer. But even an equalizer is not necessarily a given fix. It transfers weight from the back of your TV to the front of the TV and the trailer wheels by raising the back end of the TV. You might be able to pack a lot of weight in the back of your 'pod to reduce tongue weight, but that's not a good idea because you might end up overloading the RV. If it's a truck or SUV you're using as a TV, then you might also reduce the load in the back of the truck, and make sure the truck suspension is stiff enough to support the loads you are putting on it. You should also check the "traveling" weight of your trailer, and the weight on the tongue. Usually the tongue weight runs around 10% of the trailer weight. A heavily loaded trailer will naturally have a high tongue weight. If you travel with a full water tank (which on my Rpod is located in the forward end of the RV), emptying it might be the first change you need to make to lighten things up. To make a long story short, reduce your weight, and examine how your TV and RV loads are distributed.
	2013 R-pod 176T TV: 2013 Honda Ridgeline 3.5 L 4WD

Harry Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 10 Jul 2014 Location: Nova Scotia Online Status: Offline Posts: 38	Post Options Post Reply Quote Harry Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 27 Aug 2014 at 8:21am
	On my 176T there's already a factory-installed bumber that sticks out a couple of inches to stop the door from doing this. Integrated into this bumper is a manually operated latch that keeps the door from swinging back when you want to leave it open. Check out your RV dealer and you can probably get the same or something similar.
	2013 R-pod 176T TV: 2013 Honda Ridgeline 3.5 L 4WD

David and Danette Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 24 Nov 2009 Online Status: Offline Posts: 1215	Post Options Post Reply Quote David and Danette Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 27 Aug 2014 at 7:39am
	If possible could you move more weight to the front to add more tongue weight.
	2018 Vista Cruiser 19BFD (2018- 2012 Vibe 6503 (2014-2019) 2009 r-pod 171 (2009-2014) Middle Tn 2014 Ram 1500 Quad cab

cmrb Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 03 May 2014 Location: Newport OR Online Status: Offline Posts: 7	Post Options Post Reply Quote cmrb Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 27 Aug 2014 at 1:55am
	In prep for our cross country trip to VA from OR for my 60th high school reunion, we livedin our 177 R-Pod while hosting at Ft. Stevens State Park near Astoria, OR. Every system worked except the spray on the extendable faucet at the sink. The dealer replaced it. Just recently, prior to our trip, I got some swaying while driving on the Central Oregon Coast. I installed a sway bar which had some effect, but have been advised by a hitch shop to go with my EZE Lift bars and chains. I really don't want to because of the weight of the bars and having to release them each evening before camping with a very bad back. What do you think? The 2013 Toyota Venza is rated for 3500 lbs. but doesn't have a very long wheelbase. I also have a Ford F-150 but it is a real gas guzzler (8-10 MPG). Any advice about the EZE Lift use? Thanks!
	cmrb

Grayotter Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 06 Aug 2014 Location: Morro Bay Online Status: Offline Posts: 60	Post Options Post Reply Quote Grayotter Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 20 Aug 2014 at 7:52pm
	I have a new 179. The entry door could slam into the right fender tail light. So I attached two 2" long strips of stickem weather striping on the door where the taillight would be connecting with the door. This should create a cushion. I'm looking for better ideas... Gar
	Love2 1der

Leo B Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 13 Jan 2012 Location: Lyndonville, VT Online Status: Offline Posts: 4508	Post Options Post Reply Quote Leo B Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 15 Aug 2014 at 9:24am
	Sounds like a great trip!!
	Leo & Melissa Bachand 2017 Ford F150 2021 Vista Cruiser 19 csk Previously owned 2015 Rpod 179 2010 Rpod 171

P.T.Pod Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 16 Jun 2013 Location: Maine Online Status: Offline Posts: 7	Post Options Post Reply Quote P.T.Pod Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 15 Aug 2014 at 9:06am
	Peter and I are leaving next week for a westward trip from Maine to Montana .. We had been discussing ideas for mods during the long winter and he has just completed them. I am only listing the carpentry type mods. He put a bookcase across the wall above the dining table, added a drawer over the stove (attached to the cupboard above), added a few shelves in the cupboards, put in a new access door under the bench just as you enter the camper, put a shelf over the head of the bed for books and attaching a light. The biggest improvement was to add a 4" compartment under the bed for clothing. There are lifts that help open it and there are removable boards to allow access to the electrical stuff and one to allow reaching down into the basement area below.Many of the mods required adjustments ..to add the under the bed space we needed to remove the blinds and and the valances and put up fabric curtains on a shock cord. Did not like the noisy blinds anyway. I will post pictures if I can figure it out.
	Terrie and Peter Oona the Aussie 2013 171 2011 Ford F150

wildfire305 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 22 Jul 2014 Location: Erlanger, KY Online Status: Offline Posts: 85	Post Options Post Reply Quote wildfire305 Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 03 Aug 2014 at 8:14pm
	This month: 1. Added Anderson connectors to make a sweet battery Disconnect instead of a switch. 2. Failed to find a place I was comfortable putting my Progressive Industries electrical management system, so I bought an external unit. (not really a mod just a plug for y'all to see it's for sale in the flea market section) 3. Fixed all the quality control issues from the factory on the brand new 179. (some Plumbing, tank support, and panel fitment issues) 4. Planning a collapsible bunk bed over the dinette.
	2005 Dodge Durango 4.7 V8 OLD Tow Vehicle 2004 Honda Odyssey 2015 RP179 "73b" OLD 2005 Viking Saga 2480ST popup

Harry Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 10 Jul 2014 Location: Nova Scotia Online Status: Offline Posts: 38	Post Options Post Reply Quote Harry Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jul 2014 at 10:59pm
	For my 2013 176T... 1. Modified an RV fan/light unit and suspended it from the tent framework over the master bed. This was hooked into the 12V heater circuit, and uses a 2-way electrical disconnect. 2. Put 1/2" rigid high-density foam under the master bed and kitchenette cushions to improve insulation under the mattress and cushions. 3. Gradually changing the interior incandescent bulbs with LED's. 4. Installed two large drawers (each about 16" wide, 12" deep, and 23" to the back) under the right hand end of the lower bunk. The framework that I added for the drawers serves also to better support the lower bunk.. This eliminates the need to disturb the lower bunk if something is needed from the storage area.