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Topic ClosedUnder side of camper rotting

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1nana2many View Drop Down
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Joined: 05 Apr 2018
Location: NE Kansas
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Under side of camper rotting
    Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 4:19pm
In our case, we were working on a Coachman Captiva. We took the entire from cap off and replaced flooring for the from third of the camper. Luckily for us, the tanks were all in the back section. We lifted the whole front end off of the frame by removing baggage doors and running beams through supported on the ground. Not usually an option for Rpods. We tore the entire front bedroom out a piece at a time to get to the floor. Every trim piece removed was written on on the back so we knew where to put it back. Screws were put in zip lock baggies and also marked.  It was really depressing to open up the walls and see the scrap wood they used to build the front nose. Some gaps were only held together with staples and no wood. It took us about three weeks and was a royal pain, but it is built better than it was when it left the factory. We also replaced our slide floor. I would guess you will have to drop the tanks on an Rpod. You definitely don’t want to leave any rotted wood in place. We used Sikaflex urethane caulk found in the cement department of Home Depot to recaulk our entire RV. We replaced all Butyl with new, then covered any edges that showed with the caulk on the advice of a professional RV serviceman. He says Butyl rubber cracks faster when exposed to sun. It’s been two years and the caulk is still looking great. People: don’t forget to caulk over the top and sides of every light or fixture that penetrates the skin of your RV!
The mountains are calling and we must go...O.D., Keith & Jody
2016 RP179= O.D. (Olive Drab)
2008 Coachman Captiva
1993 Jayco 1206 popup
2016 F150 Supercrew
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 5:15pm
No and I don’t think it’s necessary, the wood is there to protect the foam from rocks and other road debris so as long as something else is in the way I say don’t worry about it.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 3:38pm
I know this is old, but we are having the same problem. What did you ultimately figure out? Thank you In advance!
2015 Rpod 178
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2020 at 10:16am
One of the things we noticed when rebuilding our Captiva is that where the skin meets the floor at the front, there is not much barrier to keep moisture from running down the wall and finding its way into the floor edge if there’s the slightest crack in the caulking there. Since we had the skin off to replace the flooring, we took a piece of aluminum roof flashing the width of our camper, bent down the middle length-wise and inserted it under the wall skin and below the flooring, much like the drip edge on a house roof. With this in place, any water cannot be absorbed into the leading edge of the flooring where it acts as a wick into the rest of the wood. This may not be the answer to your question, but it is one of the things we have done to help prevent future water penetration after major repair.
The mountains are calling and we must go...O.D., Keith & Jody
2016 RP179= O.D. (Olive Drab)
2008 Coachman Captiva
1993 Jayco 1206 popup
2016 F150 Supercrew
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