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Topic ClosedWF 8955 Converter - Event Date: 14 Apr 2017 - 07 Oct 2017

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Davidb View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: WF 8955 Converter
    Posted: 11 Nov 2017 at 7:48pm
I replaced my converter lower board section after our first trip with a Progressive Dynamics brand, we went on a long trip from Louisiana to Colorado and back, everything worked fine because I carried a spare converter, battery charger, extra battery, and portable 80 watt solar panels.

We went to Florida this week (500 miles each way), forgot to pack all the spare equipment and the converter failed on day one! Battery died, no lights, fridge control board went dead, had to connect it to the truck for a while to get enough juice to bring the slideout back in and return home early.

Lesson learned, there will be a battery charger on board at all times, will install the extra WFCO they sent me after I sent the first bad one in for warranty then I can send the Progressive Dynamics board back.

I either have something on this trailer that keeps zapping these converters or simply got two defective units in a row, the trailer is a 2018 180 only a few months old.

I ran the fridge on battery for the nine hour trip and possibly the converter can't handle charging the batteries ( I have two 12 volt cheapo Auto Zone deep cycles in parallel) My Tundra supplies voltage to the batteries when running but maybe the current draw is too much from the fridge.
I found the fridge stays much cooler on the DC mode while traveling than the propane mode.
David
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 7:09am
The converter does nothing when towing, unless you have a hella long extension cord. It's ONLY purpose is to make 12v when on shore power. (not absolutely sure if you understand that, if you do did..  :) )

I have heard and worked on a couple WFCO's that had replacement failures. Two defective in a row isn't anywhere near the record.. so.. LOL

I have never seen or even heard of a PD death, short of a lightning strike or miss-wired 30A plugin. Do you use a surge protector or power conditioner?

"cheapo batteries" won't hurt a converter charger, unless they are just junk/damaged and shorted inside. In fact, since the real difference is how much material (lead) is used, they hold less charge, which makes them easier to charge, not harder..

EDIT to add, carrying a charger and jumper cables is a very good idea, more then once, I got the satisfaction and joy of saving someone else's weekend by loaning them out.
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 7:14am
Originally posted by Davidb

I found the fridge stays much cooler on the DC mode while traveling than the propane mode.

I always run the fridge on propane when traveling and it keeps ice cream hard in the freezer compartment.  I don't know how much cooler it needs to get. 

It doesn't seem like running the fridge on DC would affect the converter, although it is a really big draw.  There seems there aren't many people who have good things to say about running it on DC.

It has been reported that there were a lot of bad converters put in Pods, and other campers, for a while.  Maybe you did get another one of the bad ones.  My converter has been cranking right along just fine.  They just don't make things like they used to....

TT
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Davidb View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 9:41am
Thanks for the tips, yes I understand the function of the converter ( i actually called the converter an inverter the other day while troubleshooting with a Progressive Dynamics tech and he immediately corrected me)

I have to constantly explain to my wife the differences between AC line power, DC battery power from the tow vehicle recharging the DC batteries, solar panels recharging the batteries and the GoPower inverter we use (coffee percolater 600 watts) to convert DC to AC while dry camping with no AC power.

No I don't use a surge or power conditioner but think it is time to employ one in the future, I see Progressive Industries has a new portable unit EMS-PT30X that looks good.
I do check the pedestal with a DVM for proper hot, neutral and ground configuration, but realize it does nothing for you when the neighbor rolls in and plug his trailer in to the same circuit your on with one of his outlets causing a "hot skin" condition that he now shares with his fellow campers on the same branch.

The final straw on cutting our Florida trip short was when the battery got so low the Dometic fridge control panel that needs 12volts dc started beeping while it was running on propane, i backed the truck up and connected the trailer plug to give it a little juice, the neighboring campers probably wondered why my truck was sitting there idling so much while we were sitting around the campfire.

I read in the Dometic manual where the RM8501 has an optional battery compartment for 8 AA batteries to power up the control panel, I googled it and can't find any info on it.

I just replaced the Progressive Dynamics converter with the spare WFCO,it's putting out 13.7vdc, will try to send back the PD tomorrow.

Update: I just purchased the EMS power management system.
http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-pt30x

Thanks
David


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Caryd View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 3:34pm
I gave up on R-pod 180 after 3 converter failures. I traded 2017 R-pod for a 2018 Artic Fox on Oct 31.No more Forest River for me.
Caryd9474@gmail.com
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Keith-N-Dar View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 4:24pm
Originally posted by Caryd

I gave up on R-pod 180 after 3 converter failures. I traded 2017 R-pod for a 2018 Artic Fox on Oct 31.No more Forest River for me.
Caryd9474@gmail.com


Why blame FR for a supplier problem?  You could have the same issue with your new RV.
Keith-N-Dar
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furpod View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 4:30pm
Originally posted by Keith-N-Dar

Originally posted by Caryd

I gave up on R-pod 180 after 3 converter failures. I traded 2017 R-pod for a 2018 Artic Fox on Oct 31.No more Forest River for me.
Caryd9474@gmail.com


Why blame FR for a supplier problem?  You could have the same issue with your new RV.


+ 1.

FR didn't build the converter, and almost every 30A small camper out there has a WFCO converter. Over the last 18 months or so, everybody from Jayco to Airstream has had these failures. But, it is what it is, and the Arctic Fox is otherwise a nicely built camper, though, just like our Lance, quite a bit more money too.

Enjoy, that's what it's all about.
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Davidb View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 5:35pm
I agree, it doesn't matter what brand of trailer you have, they don't make the individual components that can fail such as the converter, water heater, water pump, fridge, axles, etc. I just deal with them as they pop up and try to carry a backup plan for most problem scenarios.

Wouldn't consider bringing it to a dealer for warranty or service, simply too frustrating having them tell you the warranty didn't cover the problem(s) and pay through the teeth for an attempt at a fix.

I sold a Livin Lite trailer that was built to last a lifetime and bought the r-pod knowing it was "stick and staple" construction, but it fit our needs a little better until the day Livin Lite or someone else builds a solid smaller pod type trailer.

We stopped and looked at some Lances in Ft Worth Texas on our return trip from Colorado and they are built extremely well, we like the 1475 with no slideout.

The Arctix Fox Nash 17 K is one awesome trailer!!!

David
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Davidb View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 10:18am
Converter Failure diagnosis

I brought the Progressive Dynamics converter to work today and we put it on the bench, applied AC volts to converter, no DC output at all.

Placed circuit board under magnifier lamp and noticed one of the legs on one the devices (MOSFET) that is connected to the aluminum heat-sink is sheared in two.

Obviously a vibration issue, I saw an earlier post about using some anti vibration foam, the heat-sink is extremely large and placed on the edge of the board causing the board to flex.

The R-pod and other single axle trailers seem to bounce up and down like a jack rabbit going down the highway.

At least I know it wasn't a voltage surge problem, although I did order a voltage EMS system yesterday that I will use from this point forward.

Comparing the Progressive Dynamics and the WFCO side by side you can see how the Progressive really is a well built rugged beast, I'm sure I had a rare failure.

David
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ChetC View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 2017 at 7:00pm
Originally posted by Davidb

Converter Failure diagnosis

...Placed circuit board under magnifier lamp and noticed one of the legs on one the devices (MOSFET) that is connected to the aluminum heat-sink is sheared in two.

Obviously a vibration issue...

Ah-ha!  Thank you for verifying my theory.
Former 2017 rPod 180 owner
Now in a 2019 Little Guy MAX
Full timer who logs more than 35,000 miles per year.
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