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Topic ClosedA poll on WDH w/sway control

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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: A poll on WDH w/sway control
    Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 8:47pm
It must depend on the type of hitch. The Equal-i-zer has friction at the hitch head in addition to the friction of the L brackets. When I removed the bar with the tool, it did not swing outward.Part of the stress had been taken off when I raised the jack, just not quite enough to get the bar off.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 7:58pm
The bar doesn't move in just a down direction.  It moves both out and down and can hit someone easily.  I didn't realize how much force is on the bars until I tried to dislodge one with the tool that I though was for that purpose.  When I did it, I realized that it was not a very smart thing to do.  The tool launches the bar out away from the L bracket as it moves down.  If you have a slope issue and can't get the bars off without the tool, then take them off ahead of time when you're on the flat and move the trailer to the slope without the bars in place.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 7:00pm
When I had the Equal-i-zer, I have had to use the pry tool when I was parked on a slope. The force is significant, but motion is very limited given the friction of the hitch head's bar mounts. It is totally unlike a chain or cable where it can whip around. I agree though that one would not want to have an extremity under the bar when it is released. It would be hard to do so anyway given the angle one must use to pry the bar up or release it from the mount.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 3:44pm
+1 to mjlrod.  In a prior post I pointed out the danger of using the release bar to dislodge the WDH bars when under tension.  Quite frankly, I think Fastway is foolish even supplying the bar as it invites misuse.  If you release those bars under tension it's unleashing a significant amount of energy and when it collides with an extremity, you're going to be injured, likely with a very serious contusion or a fracture.  

If anyone has ever seen a cable under strain fail you will get an idea of the force.  For an example, go back to the reality tv series about loggers and watch when a strawline breaks.  It'll take someone arm or leg right off.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 2:45pm
+2  to mjlrod.  I have never used the pry tool.  only keep it in case of jack failure and even then, the electric jack has a manual lever to raise and lower.  (hope i never have to do that!)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 2:08pm
+1 to mjlrod. There is also a safety benefit. To do much of anything for weight distribution there is going to be hundreds of pounds of tension on the wdh bars. By jacking the hitch up your hands and legs are away from that area when the bars are under tension so you save yourself from injury in case something suddenly lets go. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 1:51pm
I will answer the question about "is it hard to connect/disconnect rv from camper" cause I didn't see it answered, maybe I missed it. I as most have the fastway E2 with square transfer bars. If you put them on the "hard" way. they are hard to connect/disconnect. Many new users don't realize that you should first secure the camper to the ball of the hitch, then jack the camper back up again. Theres two reasons to jack it back up. 1) this will make sure you are hooked correctly and the holding pin isn't wedge in between the ball and receiver. 2) this will make it so your transfer bars require absolutely zero effort to put on. You will NOT need the pry tool that comes with them. 3) The same is done to remove the bars. Jack the tongue up, remove the bars, then back down to unhook from the ball. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 1:41pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 8:02am
Originally posted by offgrid

The geometry of the Anderson hitch bothers me. ....

Not saying this hitch doesn't work but just that it works differently than most and depends on putting the chains, chain brackets and trailer A frame under quite a lot more tension than a conventional wdh does. 



I believe that's why the general consensus on the Andersen is it's good for sway but not so effective for WD. I agree with you.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 6:54am
The geometry of the Anderson hitch bothers me. 

On my rig I need about 600 lbs tension on the 30 inch spring bars (300lbs on each one) when set up correctly. That's a torque of 600*30/12 = 1500 ft lbs. 

On the Anderson the same torque would be needed to do the same weight distribution job but now it would have to be applied as tension on the chains and would act over a much shorter torque arm that looks like its only about 8 inches (vertical distance from the center of the ball to where the chains are attached). That works out to 1500/8*12=2250 lbs, about 4x what a conventional wdh needs.  That's 1150 lbs on each chain, and also on the brackets where the chains attach to the A frame. That's a lot of tension.

Also, since the same chains are also acting as the sway control via friction in the hitch, the tension on the chain on the outside during turns is going to get higher and the inside lower. 

Not saying this hitch doesn't work but just that it works differently than most and depends on putting the chains, chain brackets and trailer A frame under quite a lot more tension than a conventional wdh does. 


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