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Topic Closed4-cyl towing thoughts?

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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: 4-cyl towing thoughts?
    Posted: 15 Mar 2020 at 8:16pm
I towed an RP 172 with a 2010 Honda Pilot using the E2 WDH for a year. The Pilot was Unibody and, since it was 4WD, rated at #4500 towing. In the year I owned the Rpod I had no issues regarding the WDH with Unibody construction. I definitely recommend using a WDH.
Charlie
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 2020 at 9:20am
Here is my $0.02.

There is no good reason to worry about towing or using a wdh with a unibody vehicle per se. Unibody construction is very strong and stiff in a minivan or suv vehicle with C and D pillars which effectively make the vehicle body a truss structure. There is no great advantage to unibody construction in a pickup structure (like the Honda Ridgeline) because there is no roof structure to tie into.

OTOH, there is every reason not to exceed the tv manufacturer's specs, regardless of whether the tv is body on frame or unibody construction. If your tv manufacturer doesn't rate your vehicle for use with a wdh then you are essentially being a test pilot if you do so, regardless of the construction of the vehicle. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 2020 at 8:39am


Dear Offgrid
"I wouldn't base my use or non use of a wdh on whether the rig looks level or not."

Altho level does matter somewhat, the reason for concern for a wdh is the unibody construction not levelness of the minivan. The manufacturer is silent on use of a wdh. I would like to hear from the knowledgable folks on this website as to the appropriateness of using a wdh on a unibody vehicle.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 2020 at 8:38am
one thing i've noticed is, there are more names given to the two steel bars, than there are names given at a nursery. They are called spring bars (above) , transfer bars, friction bars, etc.. I think spring bar might be correct, but I tend to call them friction bars (thinking of the sway control). Somehow we all know what people are talking about. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 2020 at 7:53am
 I would rank WDH as :

1) CONTROL - puts weight back to the front axle of the tow vehicle, where you steer from, and most of your braking power will be.
2) See # 1

There's no downside to a WDH unless you count $$$, proper setup, and which type you choose and how easy it is to connect and disconnect. For the R-Pods, the Andersen WDH is very good, and easy, but if I had to do it over again, I would just buy a Blue Ox WDH rated for the tongue weight for the R-Pod. Simply an easy way to connect and disconnect, provides WD and sway control. There are versions that do not require bolting through the frame or welding. the frame rail mounted clamp version is the best. And if you switch trailers and tongue weight is different, all you have to buy are the new spring bars. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2020 at 6:14am
Originally posted by malkbean2

I tow with a front wheel drive grand caravan without weight distribution hitch. Although it is perfectly level i get real nervous going up steep grades on gravel roads found at some campgrounds. i keep thinking i should practice backing up more.

I wouldn't base my use or non use of a wdh on whether the rig looks level or not. The purpose of a wdh is to move load from the rear axle of the TV to the front axle and trailer axle. The load on the TV front axle will inevitably go down when you hang the trailer on the hitch unless you have a wdh. Having more load on the front axle is even more important with a FWD than for a RWD or AWD vehicle, because greater weight equals more traction on the drive wheels. 

You might want to try adding a wdh to your rig and using it to increase your front axle load. Get the front axle load back to or even a couple hundred pounds above what it was without the trailer. Weigh your axles at a public scale so you know you are staying well within your TV's rated front axle load limit. Don't worry too much about how it looks. While FWD can never be ideal for towing, that might give you more confidence towing uphill or on low traction surfaces.  

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2020 at 9:58am
Originally posted by Colt

The answer is a massive "it depends". The cylinder count is irrelevant. Displacement and horsepower matter. If the UVW is really 2000 lbs and you are careful mot to put more than 700 lbs if stuff in it, you should be fine. That doesn't mean you don't need a brake controller and you won't be revving 5k on some climbs.   
These days, I would revise that to "torque and horsepower" matter. In these days of turbo, and occasionally super charging, relatively small displacement motors can do impressive power. 
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Colt View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2020 at 12:03am
The answer is a massive "it depends". The cylinder count is irrelevant. Displacement and horsepower matter. If the UVW is really 2000 lbs and you are careful mot to put more than 700 lbs if stuff in it, you should be fine. That doesn't mean you don't need a brake controller and you won't be revving 5k on some climbs.   
John
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2020 at 8:53am
i tow with  a front wheel drive grand caravan without weight distribution hitch. Although it is perfectly level i get real nervous going up steep grades on gravel roads found at some campgrounds. i keep thinking i should practice backing up more.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2020 at 12:20am
Hi!
I just wanted to say thank you to all the people who weighed in with advice on towing our pod with a 4-cylinder Subaru Outback.We did it for a little while – even went up to the Sierras - we kept it light, it worked, but only marginally. So we were left with either going back to a smaller lighter folding trailer again, buying a larger TV, or… other. We opted for the latter. We sold the Pod last week and next week we go and pick up our brand spanking new Class B 2020.5 Winnebago Travato 59G. I think it’s a better fit for us all around. I really didn’t like towing. I didn’t like the inconvenience. It’s great when you get to where you’re going to drop the trailer and have just a car to drive around in, but there were so many places that we couldn’t find parking. We’d pull over to look for a place to have lunch and there were no places long enough for us. We drove to Banff/Lake Louise in the popup and no RV parking at Lake Louise, so we had to drive on. Etc. 

To me a trailer is best suited for point A to point B travel, dropping the trailer and treating it as your homebase. But we’re wanderers who go where they feel like and stop as long as they feel like, sometimes just overnight. Constant hitching and unhitching just wasn’t for us. I think a van will work best for how we like to travel. A van has the disadvantage of taking your house around everywhere when you want to go: to the store, restaurant, sightsee. But it’s only 21 feet long - a foot longer than a Chevy Suburban. And it’s not a wide body. It’ll be nice to have a vehicle that fits in one space.

So i’m leaving the group, but I wanted to thank everyone for your advice and opinions. I really did appreciate it.

Trish
2009 R-Pod 173 “OurPod”
2015 Subaru Outback 2.5L (for now)
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