R-pod Owners Forum Homepage

This site is free to use.
Donations benefit a non-profit Girls Softball organization

Forum Home Forum Home > R-pod Discussion Forums > Introduce Yourself
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed: 4-cyl towing thoughts?
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Calendar   Register Register  Login Login

Topic Closed4-cyl towing thoughts?

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 45678 12>
Author
Message Reverse Sort Order
lostagain View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 06 Sep 2016
Location: Quaker Hill, CT
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 2587
Direct Link To This Post Topic: 4-cyl towing thoughts?
    Posted: 24 Jun 2018 at 7:55am
Trish, several of observations:
In all the manufactures information I have seen, when they talk about towing capacity, they caution that the weight calculations should include passengers and all their stuff; everything that isn't part of the dry weight of the car or truck.  So when you use a weight formula it would be most accurate to include everything you add, including you, your luggage, etc. etc., even the gas in your tank. 

With the exception of the Pyrenees Mountains and the Alps, Europe, it's pretty flat in Europe where caravaning is popular.  The highest mountain in Scotland is 1345M, which isn't much.  

Aside from the table, the only thing that is heavy particle board in the Pod is the sink counter.  They can certainly be replaced by solid wood, but the weight savings would be nominal.

We have a 2009, 172 which weighs about the same as the 173 you mentioned.  I took out the table, which you need for use for a bed, took out the tele, and don't have a micro or any of the other stuff that lots of people have in their Pods that add weight.  We generally travel without the tanks full, but some time traveling with water in the tanks is simply unavoidable because you can't dump them.  Even with a relatively light trailer, I wouldn't try to tow it with what you propose.  It would likely be over the weight limit of the car or so close to it that it simply wouldn't be safe.  Even with our truck, crossing Brockway summit, between Kings Beach (lake Tahoe) and Truckee, it is a slow long climb, and that pass isn't all that high.

One final point.  It is highly unlikely that you will be able to always be towing within the rated capacity of your car.  You may think that you have packed lightly and that everything is fine, but if you were to go to a public scale and weigh the car and trailer, you'd be surprised at what you have.  It's easy to lose control of your vehicle towing in excess of it's capacity.  If you do that in a state like California, and someone else gets hurt or killed, you are going to find a very complicated situation with possible exposure to not only punitive damages but criminal liability that could land you in jail.  When you are overloaded beyond your legal weight limit and know it, or should know, then you are potentially taking yourself out of the world of simple negligence and getting into gross negligence or even intentional conduct.  That has consequences.  I know, I defended accident cases in California for many years and my brother and sister lawyers there are very clever and will do everything they can to maximize the recovery they can extract from you for their clients.  And if it involves a serious injury or a fatality, the DA will be looking carefully at the case.  And, if you hurt someone else, it's not something that you will easily live with if you have a normal conscience, which I'm sure you do. 

Clearly, you are going to do what you want.  I hope you don't color the outcome of your decision by selectively considering the facts in your calculations.  
Never leave footprints behind.
Fred & Maria Kearney
Sonoma 167RB
Our Pod 172
2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost
Back to Top
Ghosthawk View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 01 Apr 2018
Location: Fargo ND
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 128
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2018 at 6:52am
Trish if you want to rebuild to save weight instead of wood think rigid foam with thin veneer of wood.

Plenty of stuff on Youtube to help you figure it out.
Back to Top
TrailerTrish View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 11 Jun 2018
Location: SF Bay Area
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 32
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2018 at 12:54am
Originally posted by Ben Herman

 Not sure what else to add - if you google around a bit about cvt transmissions and towing up significant grades you'll see that the recommended weights are well below the published max capacity. My experience and that of many others is that ideally I'd be towing somewheres around 70% or so of the tow vehicle's max capacity, to allow for hills w/o significant strain. If you are really set on doing this go for it, but not sure you'll find any enthusiasm from this crowd. 

Please take this in a positive spirit; my experience is that members of this forum are eager to help and would be cheering you on if we thought otherwise. 

Your other questions about weight, structural integrity and such - really can't offer any help on that, without knowing the older 173s. I do alot of furniture and cabinet-building though and while what you are suggesting would make some difference, you might only be talking about maybe 100 lbs or so difference at the most, unless you go really high end like honeycomb plywood, but cost would be considerable.

All I have to offer - if it were my rig, I wouldn't do it, but only you can decide.

Thanks, Ben, I’ve appreciated your insights. I’ll keep the 70% in mind. And about the furniture, I guess I thought it would be a lot heavier. I based that assumption on the bloody dining table we took out of our A-frame and replaced with a slab of plywood. That table cracked my rib!  I was trying to switch it from bed to table, and the leg was hung up, so I picked it up, bent back and rested it on my sternum on edge for a second to adjust my grip and Crack! Three months of misery, a rib belt, absolutely agonizing. So I assumed everything was made out of that stuff. 
Back to Top
TrailerTrish View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 11 Jun 2018
Location: SF Bay Area
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 32
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2018 at 12:45am
Originally posted by Cannot

I think when the manufacturer determines a tow capacity, it excludes passengers, cargo, accessories, and all other weights placed in the vehicle. Below is the way you can see if your tow vehicle matches to the right trailer.

Tow Vehicle(OB)
Tow Capacity-Passengers-Cargo-Hitch Weight-Full Fuel Tank-Misc=X

Trailer
Dry Weight+Dealer Installed Options+Cargo+LP+Battery+Water (?)=Y

if X > Y, ok to tow.
If X < Y, Exceed tow rating, still ok to tow. It's up to you. 

My wife has 2016 OB premium and we use it to haul teardrop camper (about 1100 dry weight). I won't use it to tow travel trailer. 


Great -  thanks for the formulas and info! 
Back to Top
TrailerTrish View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 11 Jun 2018
Location: SF Bay Area
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 32
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2018 at 12:43am
Originally posted by Keith-N-Dar

I stayed out of this on purpose.  In my opinion you are proposing to do something that at best will perform poorly and at worst will present a clear danger to you and others around you when things get out of control.  I don't know what you are going to replace the interior with that will weigh less and still work. 

I wish you well.  You have been given pages of sound reasons not to tow a high profile trailer with your choice of TV.  You are unconvinced, so do what you want to.  You will anyway.


Keith, that dismissive attitude strikes me as wholly unnecessary, but here’s what I’m up against. My job is to weigh all the information I take in to try to arrive at a reasonably informed decision. It is not to believe everything that everyone tells me. There is a diversity of opinion and some of it may be based on incorrect beliefs and assumptions. Assumptions that the trailer has a much higher tongue weight than it does, assumptions about much I probably haul etc. And there are a lot of things that are perhaps based on incorrect knowledge or gut level feelings or prejudices that are just plain wrong. But I don’t know who’s right and who’s wrong, so I have to listen to everything, update my information, and ask questions and ask more questions. I watched the video that was recommended and ran their spreadsheet, my number seemed OK, I have some more thoughts, so I’m back with more questions. 


There was a book a few years ago called “The Signal and the Noise“. It was written by a statistician on how he arrives at his generally spot-on predictions for election results. 


I very much appreciate each and every comment, the facts, figures, recommendations, personal observations and experiences. I’m filing it all away and trying to come to a reasonable conclusion. I would very much like this to work, and I don’t want to discard it out of hand because perhaps I listened to the noise and not the signal. There’s a lot of data for me to input, and a lot involved that I was unaware of. But does that mean I should abandon this? I just don’t know yet.


And I find that here in the US, with cheap gas and big cars, but a lot of people tend to be “size-ist“ - bigger is always better. Certainly they will have more power, it will be less strain on the engine and transmission, but we’re not going do all that much towing. But the question of safety is what I’m still not sure about. And I still think the question about caravanning in Europe is legitimate. Here is a TDI Golf towing something much bigger than the trailer I want to tow.  https://www.practicalcaravan.com/reviews/tow-car/29763-volkswagen-golf  Clearly the Brits don’t think this is unsafe, so I’m curious why the discrepancy in opinions. 


So, yes, Keith, I will do what I want, but the decision I make will be based on a lot of thought and research, based heavily on the information people are sharing with me, and I appreciate every single bit of it.


Back to Top
Cannot View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 03 Jun 2018
Location: KS
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 8
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2018 at 12:20am
I think when the manufacturer determines a tow capacity, it excludes passengers, cargo, accessories, and all other weights placed in the vehicle. Below is the way you can see if your tow vehicle matches to the right trailer.

Tow Vehicle(OB)
Tow Capacity-Passengers-Cargo-Hitch Weight-Full Fuel Tank-Misc=X

Trailer
Dry Weight+Dealer Installed Options+Cargo+LP+Battery+Water (?)=Y

if X > Y, ok to tow.
If X < Y, Exceed tow rating, still ok to tow. It's up to you. 

My wife has 2016 OB premium and we use it to haul teardrop camper (about 1100 dry weight). I won't use it to tow travel trailer. 



Back to Top
Keith-N-Dar View Drop Down
podders Helping podders - pHp
podders Helping podders - pHp
Avatar

Joined: 03 Apr 2011
Location: Mayville, WI
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1447
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2018 at 7:58pm
I stayed out of this on purpose.  In my opinion you are proposing to do something that at best will perform poorly and at worst will present a clear danger to you and others around you when things get out of control.  I don't know what you are going to replace the interior with that will weigh less and still work. 

I wish you well.  You have been given pages of sound reasons not to tow a high profile trailer with your choice of TV.  You are unconvinced, so do what you want to.  You will anyway.
Keith-N-Dar
Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers)
2011 R-Pod 177
2010 Ford F-150
Back to Top
Ben Herman View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 26 Apr 2018
Location: Gr Junction, CO
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 355
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2018 at 7:32pm
 Not sure what else to add - if you google around a bit about cvt transmissions and towing up significant grades you'll see that the recommended weights are well below the published max capacity. My experience and that of many others is that ideally I'd be towing somewheres around 70% or so of the tow vehicle's max capacity, to allow for hills w/o significant strain. If you are really set on doing this go for it, but not sure you'll find any enthusiasm from this crowd. 

Please take this in a positive spirit; my experience is that members of this forum are eager to help and would be cheering you on if we thought otherwise. 

Your other questions about weight, structural integrity and such - really can't offer any help on that, without knowing the older 173s. I do alot of furniture and cabinet-building though and while what you are suggesting would make some difference, you might only be talking about maybe 100 lbs or so difference at the most, unless you go really high end like honeycomb plywood, but cost would be considerable.

All I have to offer - if it were my rig, I wouldn't do it, but only you can decide.
Back to Top
StephenH View Drop Down
podders Helping podders - pHp
podders Helping podders - pHp
Avatar

Joined: 29 Nov 2015
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 6291
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2018 at 7:28pm
I'm not really sure you would come out much lighter by gutting and rebuilding the inside. They already use lightweight materials and if a particular area is heavier, it probably needs to be. I also agree that the interior cabinetry adds to the stiffness of the trailer. You could take an empty box and push on it and see that. Add items inside and it stiffens the basic box. What you would need to do to lighten up and maintain the proper stiffness is well beyond my areas of experience, so I can't help you there.

You have put a lot of effort and thought into this. I am glad you found an older model that is lighter. I hope it works out for you and your husband.
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS
Back to Top
TrailerTrish View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 11 Jun 2018
Location: SF Bay Area
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 32
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2018 at 7:15pm
I haven’t disappeared; I have been plugging in numbers. I still come back to where I was before. I think that if you look at the hard numbers, what we have and what we want to tow are within acceptable parameters. The problem comes in with differences of opinion on how much the wind loading is an issue, discussions about CVT transmissions, Subaru engines, things like that. But the basic payload numbers are OK as best I can see.  We don’t take a lot of stuff along – we don’t have sporting equipment and things like that. Also, hitch weight was mentioned, but the particular Pod I’m looking at is just dandy. It comes in at 184 pounds and the Subaru max is 200.  The older ones are a lot lighter than the new ones.
We drove out to the nearest R-Pod dealership Wednesday, over an hour’s drive, just to see what one looks like and feels like up close. And I agree that even the new 171 is way too big and too heavy. But the 2010 173s are a different animal. What I want to do is gut the whole thing, so I’m wondering whether getting some of that weight out would make a big difference in the equation. I’d like to pull out the heavy particleboard cabinets and rebuild the whole thing with a lighter weight wood. And the question comes up whether that would affect the strength of the body.  I assume that the bathroom and kitchen structures provide some sort of shear to keep the body from flexing too much.  If so and if I left the bathroom walls intact and just redid the kitchen side, might that be enough shear? 
Another thing I keep thinking abt is Europe. Yup. I’ve been looking at a lot of British caravan sites, and they pull trailers much bulkier than the R-pod with cars that are much smaller than our Outback. What’s with that? Britain doesn’t have mountains like we do, but they have some very substantial hills. 
 Opinions appreciated.  :)
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 45678 12>

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Bulletin Board Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 9.64
Copyright ©2001-2009 Web Wiz