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Topic ClosedBrake trouble, right wheel get hot

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mcarter View Drop Down
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Joined: 07 Apr 2016
Location: Greenbrier, TN
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Brake trouble, right wheel get hot
    Posted: 20 Jul 2018 at 4:39pm
OK, what Verosail is talking about is forward adjust braking systems vice the old/norm reverse adjust drum brake systems, that many of us old timers are accustomed to. As far as downshifting, my auto trans downshifts based upon shift points, forcing it to a shift point, is not proactive, especially when you look at cost of shoes to cost of a transmission. IMHO, as a life long mechanic. Properly adjusted brakes will work fine as verified by this post.
Mike Carter
2015 178
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2018 at 4:32pm
Thank you guys for your support, wish you great vacations with your Pod ;-)
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Marchhall View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2018 at 4:25pm
My message taken out of context. If you learn to downshift, you save your tow vehicle and camper brakes in first place.

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mcarter View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2018 at 3:53pm
Excellent Verosail, a good brake tech is a valuable asset. Happy you got that fixed. All makes sense to me.
Mike Carter
2015 178
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2018 at 2:59pm
Unfortunately, the service department at some dealers hires people who do not bother to learn about the systems they are trying to "fix" and end up making things worse. I'm glad you found someone competent to fix what the other "mechanic" messed up.
StephenH
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2018 at 2:06pm
Of course, downshifting would not help for this problem, there was friction inside the drum even if the trailer was not connected to the brake cable.

I went yesterday to see another mechanic place in St-Hubert, near Montreal and they found my dealer did not adjusted it properly.

They explained to me that the new automatic brakes on the R-Pods adjustments are made in the reverse side than the old conventional manual brakes.  It means that the dealer tried to loose the wheel, but they tighted it up... Making more friction and grip.   It appears that only one wheel was breaking on the trailer because of this lack of adjustment.

To make sure and to reassure me, the guy tested the magnets and looked at all the components of the brakes to make sure all was working well.  After the adjustment, I went to a one hour test drive, speeding on the highway, driving in city, braking at the stops and many red lights... And no more heating.

Went back to the garage, take the temperature, both wheel were normal temperature, Yey!!
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mcarter View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2018 at 1:13pm
You can downshift until your blue in the face and it won't help a sticking brake.
Mike Carter
2015 178
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2018 at 12:03pm
Downshift and save your brakes.
Outdoorsy Marc
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 7:37am
Go to a brake shop.  Here in Nashville there are specialized brake and bearing shop that will take you in and fix a problem the same day.

Worth checking: Make sure your break-away brake switch is pushed in (not on).

TT
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mcarter View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 7:36am
First - you did an excellent job of detailing issue. Sometimes we don't get that:) From you post I take it this is a recent problem, so I assume something has changed. That could be pads, springs, magnets etc. The magnets can fail, springs can weaken. It is obvious readjustment did not alleviate the issue. Also the force that a brake puts against the drum is determine by the current of the magnet. If I were your brake person, I would have readjusted the brake and then test drove to ensure it wasn't over applying. Once I did that I would know the brake isn't working and the failed component needs to be isolated. You can jump the brake control at the 7 pin trailer connector to apply a brake signal and physically watch what brake does. At the 7 pin with alignment lug at top, the 12V is at the 11 position and the brake control is at 7.

Here's a link to the Lippert Brake Manual:
https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/Axles%20and%20Suspension/Electric_Brake_Owners_and_Service_Manual.pdf

If you're not comfortable with your dealer, I suggest you find a reputable brake technician. There's procedures to check every component to include the magnets for proper amp draw.

Here is a link to etrailer to check brake magnets:
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-testing-trailer-brake-magnets-for-proper-function.aspx

We'd like to hear back from you, not everything is fixed in a single post. Bottom line is your brakes can be fixed, just need to find a tech that will take on the task.
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."
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