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Topic ClosedWater tank capacity and molding

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offgrid View Drop Down
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Joined: 23 Jul 2018
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Water tank capacity and molding
    Posted: 18 Sep 2018 at 2:02pm
Keith-N-Dar, to clarify,  the 6 gallons in the heater tank doesn't disappear, its just not accessible, and neither is the water in the lines.  Once the pump has pulled all 30 gallons out of the fresh water tank it will lose pressure and no more water will be available at the taps, leaving 6 gallons in the heater tank plus whatever is in the lines. So, if you pre fill the heater tank and the lines and then top off the fresh tank you will have 30 useable gallons. If you don't pre-fill, you'll have about 23. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 9:50pm
We are quite fortunate in northern Michigan.  Still have our original anode rod and it still looks almost new after 7.5 years.  Water stays in the tank from April through most of October before getting drained out.  With only a couple exceptions it has only seen our well water and the couple other times  received well water from other sources; never municipal water.
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"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 11:07am
Originally posted by furpod

You must have some pretty bad water.


Most water in Texas is pretty hard.
Alan
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2018 at 10:05am
Originally posted by David


Heck....I'll give you a +2!!!   

Words of appreciation are rarely spoken enough - here or anywhere in life. You folks make Rpod Owners Forum what it is. Thanks to each of you, we'll be celebrating our 10th anniversary in 2019!



PS - Yes a lot of the same topics come up from time to time. That's OK/fine. We were all "newbies" once and needed "a little help up the trail".





+2 and +3

LOL
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2018 at 9:50am
Originally posted by codycountry

I'm really proud to gratefully acknowledge that I finally got a +1 after my few hundred comments, and it was from Mike who is a sage around these parts, along with a few dozens others.  Thanks pard.  
This site is absolutely wonderful and so helpful, over and over again sometimes on the same old topics.  Thank you folks for your patience at answering the questions, and helpful advice giving to others.  That's what is so special about the  Rpod owner's group here.  And of all the Rpod owners I've met.  We are kindred spirits for the most part.
I pray for all those in the Carolina's suffering all the rain and wind and floods.  
Steve, in Cody, Wyoming.



Heck....I'll give you a +2!!!   

Words of appreciation are rarely spoken enough - here or anywhere in life. You folks make Rpod Owners Forum what it is. Thanks to each of you, we'll be celebrating our 10th anniversary in 2019!



PS - Yes a lot of the same topics come up from time to time. That's OK/fine. We were all "newbies" once and needed "a little help up the trail".



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2018 at 9:49am
You must have some pretty bad water.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2018 at 9:44am
As the rod degrades it leaves sediment in the bottom of the WH.  One trip last year the kitchen faucet stopped running but the bath was OK.  I finally removed the aerator on the faucet and a great deal of white sediment poured out allowing the water to run freely.  When I removed the rod the first time not only was it for the most part gone, there was a lot of sediment that drained out of the WH onto the driveway.  Looked like beach sand.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2018 at 8:23am
Andy's post reminded me of my time in TX and water. The water on my place was well supplied and had an issue with sulphur bacteria and hydrogen sulfate. It smelled like rotten eggs. Many areas of the country have the same issue depending upon water supply. My opinion if your anode rod is lasting a year or less, try switching to an aluminum rod versus a magnesium rod if you are using magnesium. Magnesium reacts faster to the above water conditions. Some believe this will effect your tank, I don't have that opinion. Operative word is opinion:) If you do sanitize your water system with bleach or chlorinated water it will kill sulphur bacteria. You can tell a lot about water you are using by condition of anode rod and time.
Mike Carter
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2018 at 7:59am
Rod condition is based upon water used mainly. It is sacrificial. I'm on third season of same rod, might get a fourth. I pull it during winterization and keep a spare.
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 9:35pm
I remove the anode rod after every trip and use a compressor (25-30 PSI) to blow out the lines.  As mcarter explained, always active the pressure relief valve before unscrewing the rod.  Trust me!  I left the anode rod in the trailer for ~ 1 year and had just a piece left attached to the threads.  I sawed it off and use it as a plug when the RPod is stored.  If you do it this way it should last you for several years.
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