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Ben Herman
Senior Member
Joined: 26 Apr 2018
Location: Gr Junction, CO
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Posts: 355
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Topic: Specific question on winterizing Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 10:41am |
Hi all - thinking ahead to the winterizing process for my Pod; hoping to get one more trip in but getting colder!
My specific question is about the best way to handle the black/grey water tanks. My winterization process is a combination of gravity flow to low point drains and compressed air to do initial line-clearing, then anti-freeze in lines and drains to avoid any damage from freezing of residual moisture.
In draining the lines and adding antifreeze, undoubtedly some water/antifreeze mix will end up in each of the waste tanks. I'm wondering if that is an issue, and if I would be well-served to take the Pod for a last trip to the tank dump station to get as much of the residual liquid out as possible. Curious to know what others do as the final step in the process......
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mcarter
podders Helping podders - pHp
Joined: 07 Apr 2016
Location: Greenbrier, TN
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 11:18am |
I do ensure waste is removed. I add a combo of water, treatment and antifreeze. Not a lot. 1 or 2 gals per tank.
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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."
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mjlrpod
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Joined: 27 Sep 2016
Location: Massachusetts
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Posts: 1215
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 4:09pm |
The waste tanks are big enough to allow for any ice expansion. I would not worry to much about them. Drains, traps, and lines are the bigger concern, don't forget the outside shower and black tank flush line. I put some A/F in the toilet bowl also to keep the seal moist.
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2017.5 Rp-172
2020 R-pod 195
2015 Frontier sv 4.0L 6cyl
I'll be rpodding
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Pod People
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Joined: 22 Sep 2011
Location: Chapel Hill,NC
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 4:14pm |
I also drain, use compressed air and antifreeze.
I think your question is more about the small amounts of residual water that end up in the black/grey tanks after your final dumping. These occur with relieving the pressure, draining all the pipes, draining faucets, etc.
I usually add enough extra antifreeze into both the tanks that the small amount of liquid in the tank is diluted with anti freeze to the point that it will not freeze. I would not worry too much. the tanks have plenty of room to expand IF it were to freeze. the main point is to empty the lines, all of the fittings and all of the faucets and valves. These are the constricted areas that if frozen have no expansion room.
Just my experiences in North Carolina---yours may be different at your location.
Vann
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Vann & Laura 2015 RPod 179
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Ben Herman
Senior Member
Joined: 26 Apr 2018
Location: Gr Junction, CO
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Posts: 355
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 5:20pm |
Originally posted by Pod People
I also drain, use compressed air and antifreeze.
I think your question is more about the small amounts of residual water that end up in the black/grey tanks after your final dumping. These occur with relieving the pressure, draining all the pipes, draining faucets, etc.
I usually add enough extra antifreeze into both the tanks that the small amount of liquid in the tank is diluted with anti freeze to the point that it will not freeze. I would not worry too much. the tanks have plenty of room to expand IF it were to freeze. the main point is to empty the lines, all of the fittings and all of the faucets and valves. These are the constricted areas that if frozen have no expansion room.
Just my experiences in North Carolina---yours may be different at your location.
Vann
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thanks, on reflection this makes sense. It does get pretty cold here with alternating warm days and cold nights, but I agree with your theory that a bit of freezing in the tanks is ok as long as all lines are clear.
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mhfnet
Newbie
Joined: 09 Oct 2018
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Posts: 21
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 5:34pm |
Since we are on the topic of winterizing. What are the thoughts on humidity control?
I was going to put a couple Damprid moisture absorber containers on the inside and keep the maxxair vent open about 1" to keep some air flow and the vent cover should keep any rain from coming in. I've heard as long as the inside and outside air are the same temperature condensation won't occur? Sure it will have the same humidity also but my thought is the Damprid should help with that as I don't have electricity to plug in a dehumidifier.
I just got my R-pod 179 this year and this is my first travel trailer and post on the forum! Looks like a lot of knowledgeable owners and useful information!
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Guests
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 6:02pm |
Originally posted by mhfnet
keep the maxxair vent open about 1" to keep some air flow and the vent cover should keep any rain from coming in. I've heard as long as the inside and outside air are the same temperature condensation won't occur?
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I was told, by a RV technician, to do this, years ago. I have done it for many years and it has served me well (only I don't do Damp Rid). The explanation was that the camper and everything in it would expand/contract uniformly - putting less stress on joints, seals, caulking, etc. My vent is almost never closed, year round. I have a Maxx Air 2 vent cover and have never had anything get in.
Regarding the OP's question, agreed with all of the above. Don't sweat the small amount in the waste tanks - for the reasons stated.
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mcarter
podders Helping podders - pHp
Joined: 07 Apr 2016
Location: Greenbrier, TN
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 6:08pm |
I don't know where you live. I wish folks would specify in their registration. Different locales demand different resolutions. Personally in TN I don't have humidity issues. So I do nothing for humidity. I have never had a condensation issue. I will tell you I do put a cube small heater in and set it on 50, just enough to keep the inside temp up. Not possible for everyone. Also have an open fan with cover.
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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."
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jato
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Joined: 23 Feb 2012
Location: Kewadin, MI
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 6:48pm |
Hi Ben, We have used compressed air since 2012 on our 2011 177. Takes about 2-3 minutes to get hose out and connected under the sink and about 1 minute to go through all the lines 2 times. As stated above the little bit of water in the tanks is nothing to worry about. By looking at the fresh water tank there is probably at least 3 gallons that do not drain because the drain is not at the low point in the tank. We will often get well below zero during the winter months and have never had any leak issues. After the lines are blown I measure 16 oz. of RV antifreeze to use in our 2 sink and 1 shower drain trap and also I little bit on top of the toilet valve to keep it wet. After 6 years I have used a total of 96 oz. of antifreeze.
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God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
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"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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crankster78
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Joined: 08 May 2018
Location: Minn
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Posts: 163
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Posted: 11 Oct 2018 at 8:36am |
Greetings: The water pump has a small filter on the inlet side. It's a good idea to screw off the cap or break the line and drain the water out of the filter. The Pex piping used is very tough. A small amount of water in the pipes won't hurt. Follow the previous instructions, open the bypass for the water heater and drain it.
Crankster78 R-179 in MN
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Crankster 78 R-179 2015
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