Weight Distribution Towing

I use this one in conjunction with my current Blue Ox WD system, I also used it on the Andersen WD system. The Brophy Stabilizer Clamp 2 inch. I do NOT use it "vertically" oriented, I use it to prevent side-to-side clunk by mounting it "sideways" instead. The tongue weight prevents the hitch from moving up and down, it's the left-right motion that causes all the clunk in my experience. It does add an extra thing to do when coupling the trailer, I have to take a wrench with me to tighten the two nuts each time. And if I want to install my bike rack after getting to my campsite, I have to remove it, and put it back on when leaving, but it does stop the side to side clunk. I also use it when I have my motorcycle hitch rack installed.

Originally posted by offgrid Sorry for my belated reply, I'm only just now getting back on the forum after an extended family emergency.  StephenH, a WDH is generally considered to be part of the tow vehicle not the trailer, because it winds up being rigidly attached to the TV receiver when in use. I don't think the Hensley hitch is different in that regard. But of course, since a WDH acts to redistribute tongue load to the TV front axle and trailer axle, its weight doesn't end up on the TV rear axle anyway, like tongue weight does if you don't have a WDH.

I can see that with a standard WD hitch. The main (and heaviest) part of the Hensley hitch is attached to the trailer ball and tongue and only the shank detaches from the trailer when unhitching. Plus, the hitch design seems to put the WD arms farther back than those of the Equal-i-zer I was using before. The shank is also longer, meaning that I had to use chain extenders for the safety chain connections. This is all part of the reason I think more weight is transferred to the trailer axle in proportion when compared with the Equal-i-zer. This is all pure speculation though as I don't have easily available scales to check and don't want to spend  a small fortune at a truck stop to use theirs which would include the towing expense to get to it.

Originally posted by AL1010 Originally posted by ToolmanJohn The Andersen works as intended. I had one for over a year and it definitely settled down heavy bounce over expansion joints. No more oscillations at all. Just make sure that you measure the ball height as directed in the setup instructions (starting about 1 to 1-1/2 inches higher than the trailer coupler). Then make certain it is sagged slightly lower than the original couple height so the trailer is ever so slightly nose down. That final adjusted position is ideal. Don't remove all the sag by tightening the chain adjuster. Did either of you have a lot of slop in the shank?

After the accident I was looking for a bullet-proof way to avoid another situation where the sway control was insufficient to prevent the type of accident we had with ice and wind. The Hensley looked like it would work much better than the Equal-i-zer we were using. I was able to get it at a special price as I originally purchased the Swift Cub, but switched to the jacks of the regular Cub when I realized that with my arthritis, the chains and snap-up system of the Swift Cub were a bit much.