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podwerkz View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Generator Recommendations
    Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 5:35pm
Originally posted by offgrid

1175 watts at 115V with 0.95 pf works out to only 10.75A though, which is much lower than the 15.3A I was getting in hot conditions last summer, which at 0.95pf works out to 1671 watts. 

Possibly you had your fridge on AC power which is around an amp or so, and maybe the charger was working more, maybe a few more items loading down the AC line. 

Dunno, but I will call it good for now.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 7:41pm
No, nothing else was turned on, I was doing a detailed energy audit, measuring each load one at a time. It’s typical for a/c compressor loading to vary significantly with temperature differential between the evaporator and condenser. That’s why folks can find that a low power generator will start and run their a/c units initially but not after a second or third cycle.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 7:55pm
That last part is good to know, I will check on that at a later time. My 3500/4000 watt genset, so far, has run the AC but I have not tested it for a long period in hot weather, nor at high altitude where power output tends to drop. Still, I have confidence in it. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 8:04pm
In the dc (direct current) world power used (watts) = volts x amps. In the ac (alternating current) world it’s not that simple, because both voltage and current are constantly changing. If the current is not changing in phase with the voltage then the power used is less than the volts x amps. The ratio of power divided by volts x amps is the power factor. Typically in motor loads like your a/c compressor the current lags behind the voltage so the power factor is less than 1. In resistor loads like your water heater element the current and voltage are in phase and the pf is very close to 1.

It’s useful to know what the power factor of a load is for a couple of reasons. One is that you can’t just use your clamp on current meter to measure power used in ac loads. The other is that if you’re running a load with a low power factor on a generator you could overload the generator electrical circuit and trip it’s breaker while still having plenty of power available from the engine itself.

At a pf of .95 the roof ac is pretty good for an a/c compressor so you could expect that the genny electrical circuit and engine will be pretty well balanced and one won’t give up much before the other.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 8:09pm
Originally posted by podwerkz

That last part is good to know, I will check on that at a later time. My 3500/4000 watt genset, so far, has run the AC but I have not tested it for a long period in hot weather, nor at high altitude where power output tends to drop. Still, I have confidence in it. 


Just for the sake of being thorough, it’s also possible that my 2015 vintage Dometic roof air isn’t as efficient as the unit in your rpod. What year is yours?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 8:24pm
Originally posted by offgrid

It’s useful to know what the power factor of a load is for a couple of reasons. One is that you can’t just use your clamp on current meter to measure power used in ac loads. The other is that if you’re running a load with a low power factor on a generator you could overload the generator electrical circuit and trip it’s breaker while still having plenty of power available from the engine itself.
If one has a clamp-on meter that claims to be able to measure true RMS current, would it measure accurate pwer used for AC loads?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 10:09pm
Originally posted by offgrid


Just for the sake of being thorough, it’s also possible that my 2015 vintage Dometic roof air isn’t as efficient as the unit in your rpod. What year is yours?

It's a 2019, with a standard 13.5 Dometic roof air.
 
There was no manual for the roof A/C unit in my paperwork, but I think I found it on the Dometic webpage, and it seems to show 1762 running watts.

Hmmm....maybe the lower line voltage meant less wattage, duh, or maybe I need to do another test with a higher heat load. Or maybe the kill-a-watt meter is off by a few hundred watts. 

Things get curiouser and curiouser....


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 11:39pm
When I ran my AC with my 2000i Honda, I only ran it on low but I turned on the fan first let it run for about 5 min to cool the unit then I kicked in the compressor After a very short time the AC dropped down to 1480 watts.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2019 at 6:13am
Originally posted by StephenH

Originally posted by offgrid

It’s useful to know what the power factor of a load is for a couple of reasons. One is that you can’t just use your clamp on current meter to measure power used in ac loads. The other is that if you’re running a load with a low power factor on a generator you could overload the generator electrical circuit and trip it’s breaker while still having plenty of power available from the engine itself.
If one has a clamp-on meter that claims to be able to measure true RMS current, would it measure accurate pwer used for AC loads?

No, it won't. RMS stands for root mean square, which is a fancy way of "averaging" the current or voltage beining measured. That doesn't tell you anything about how far out of phase with each other the current and voltage cycles are, so you don't know what the true power being used is. The kill-a-watt is a pretty low cost way to do it, but those are limited to 15A.

You might try one of these:



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2019 at 6:16am
Originally posted by podwerkz

Originally posted by offgrid


Just for the sake of being thorough, it’s also possible that my 2015 vintage Dometic roof air isn’t as efficient as the unit in your rpod. What year is yours?

It's a 2019, with a standard 13.5 Dometic roof air.
 
There was no manual for the roof A/C unit in my paperwork, but I think I found it on the Dometic webpage, and it seems to show 1762 running watts.

Hmmm....maybe the lower line voltage meant less wattage, duh, or maybe I need to do another test with a higher heat load. Or maybe the kill-a-watt meter is off by a few hundred watts. 

Things get curiouser and curiouser....



Yes, that is indeed curious. The 1762 watts is pretty close to the 1670 I get using my clamp on ammeter measurement and your power factor measurement. Do you have a clamp on ammeter you can compare to the current reading on the kill-a-watt? 


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