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Topic ClosedrPod wiring diagram - Event Date: 26 Jul 2019

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bc89410 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: rPod wiring diagram
    Posted: 26 Jul 2019 at 9:28pm
Hello All,

I am a new member to this forum. I've got a 2012 rPod model 177.
I'm looking for a wiring diagram, or schematic for my model.
I'm not being picky and would be happy to have any rPod model
schematic, realizing of course that it wouldn't be 100% accurate,
but I would be perfectly happy to chase the schematic down
and verify it's correctness first.  Please help me, or point me
in the correct direction. 
thanks
Ben
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2019 at 11:38pm
There's no such thing.  People here will probably be able to help with any questions though.

Pods are small and for the most part, the wiring is fairly easy to track.  Are you interested in 12v or 120v wiring?

TT
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2019 at 3:39am
Think of your rPod like it is a little house on wheels. You don't get a schematic of you house when you buy it either. Instead, both your house and your trailer are wired according to established standards. Once you know what those are then its pretty straightforward. 

On the 120Vac side the 30A connector on the side of the trailer runs to the main circuit breaker in the panel. From there the individual breakers supply each appliance or outlets, just like in your house. They're all labelled. One feeds the battery charger.

On the 12Vdc side things are more complicated because there are multiple sources of power (usually 3 and 4 if you add solar). The trailer battery, the 12V side of the charger, and the tow vehicle charging system via the trailer connector. There are  two 40A fuses in the panel that connect to the battery. Two fuses are used so that both the positive and negative battery connections are protected in case someone connects the battery in reverse (don't count on them saving you though).  From there, there are individual fuses in the +12V leg for each appliance or load, also labelled. 

You also have the trailer brake and lighting circuits which are run directly from the tow vehicle connector and are separate from the house 12V circuits.   

Hope that helps get you oriented. I'd highly recommend getting a multimeter if you don't have one already, it will greatly help you in identifying and or troubleshooting electrical issues in you trailer. Get one with a clamp on ac/dc current meter function so you can check your current flows as well as your voltages, they're pretty cheap nowadays. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2019 at 7:20am
If you are unfamiliar with 12vdc systems, there are a number of books available that explain how these systems work.  There isn't a whole lot to it, just the basic circuits listed on the 12 side of the WFCO distribution panel.  A wiring diagram would be nice, but where the wires are really routed from the distribution panel to the appliance depends on the model and the whims of the assemblers.  The ac wiring is pretty much standard NEC, with wires going to the devices that use ac and to the plugs from the circuit breakers.  
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Fred & Maria Kearney
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Our Pod 172
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bc89410 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2019 at 10:54am
Thanks for your response.  BTW, I was born in Nashville.

I just bought a 2012 - 177. Love it, perfect for me and my dog.
I was beginning to realize that I'd probably have to make my own schematic.
I've done some solar power work in the past and realize the importance
of not having devices draw down one's batteries. 

The first day I owned it, I found a propane
sensor was on all the time, drawing down the battery bank. 
I added a switch to it. A month of that and the batteries would've
been dead. Knowing there is no schematic I believe I'll track the 12Vdc 
first and rough out a schematic. Now I'm thinking about adding
a battery switch. I just happen to have one of those big red Perko dial
switches, I think I'll add that as well.

thanks again
Ben
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bc89410 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2019 at 11:04am
Thank you Mr. Off Grid,

Dayton, I'm in Gardnerville.  I've designed off the grid solar systems
in the past, so I'm familiar with many things electric.  Luckily I began to 
monitor the batteries on the first day. Of course I found a propane
sensor which was on 24/7. I added a switch and began to wonder
what other nuisance parasites were drawing down my batteries. Hence, 
my desire to find a wiring diagram.  Will make my own, thanks, but
found the forum and thought I'd try asking.

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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2019 at 11:25am
Hey, a fellow PV system designer, welcome. 

Decades here doing both on and off grid system design and installation, I share your annoyance with parasitic loads. Other possible parasitic loads are the TV antenna booster and the stereo if those are left on.  But these days, PV modules are so cheap that its really not the problem it once was. Depending on where you store the trailer you could consider adding enough PV on it to not need to worry about those small draws. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2019 at 9:00am
bc, why don't you just put in a battery switch?  There are a number of them on the market that are cheap and easy to install.  Here's one from Amazon for $10:  https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Battery-Isolator-Disconnect-Vehicles/dp/B071D55VM3/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rv+battery+disconnect+switch&qid=1564322029&s=gateway&sr=8-4

At my age, with the early onset of senile dementia I would be reluctant to put a switch on the LP detector, lest I forget to turn it back on when I'm using the trailer.  In the confusion of getting everything hooked up and ready to go it'd be easy to overlook.  If you look through the archives, you'll find plenty of stories of people forgetting to stow or turn off/on many systems or devices that are obvious, such as the rear stabilizers or the front jack.  

By the way, welcome to the board.  Slowly but surely, we Nevadans, likely ex-Californians, are becoming a force to reckon with.
Never leave footprints behind.
Fred & Maria Kearney
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Our Pod 172
2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2019 at 9:41am
+1. There are a couple of parasitic loads (CO sensor, refrigerator), and at least one switched parasitic load (antenna amplifier). Rather than switch each one, just get a master battery cut-off.
bp
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bc89410 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2019 at 1:28pm
Thank you glue guy

I just happen to have one of these from my off the grid dayz.
Perko for switching batteries. It was next on my list.

B


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