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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Floor failure!!!
    Posted: 14 Aug 2019 at 12:36pm
Originally posted by furpod

 

Switch to discs.. popular mod in a couple other groups I am in..

Yeah, i looked at doing that. Not only would I need to switch to discs but I'd need an electric over hydraulic actuator. Probably around $1500 in parts IIRC. So the operative word here is prefer. But that preference isn't worth $1500.  Let me know if anyone in the other groups has found a cheaper way.

Barring that, I'd probably be more inclined to switch to a 5200 lb axle with drum brakes, that would both be cheaper and would provide more headroom on axle capacity as well as more powerful braking. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2019 at 12:55pm
Originally posted by Olddawgsrule

 

I'd prefer to see the rail/beam replaced and see that as fairly easy. Just won't have a top weld without at least lifting the box (cabin, floor..). My concern which a patch is the original .1 steel is still there.. and possible compromise of by patching. I think this is why the 2 Big Boys refused.

   

Suppose that all the shop does is straighten the existing frame rail and doesn't even weld it up. Then, the shop welds another 2x4 rectangular tube to the bottom of that rail, but this time its say a 0.1875 thick tube. This new tube extends well in front of and behind the axle attachment point and is continuously welded to the old tube. Then the axle is attached to the new tube. The new assembly will be much stronger than the old tube was even if there is zero capacity left in the old tube. Since the peak loads on the frame are at or near the axle attachment and drop off rapidly in front of and behind that area the 0.1 inch tube is fine to carry the loads as long as you extend the new heavier tube a foot or two from the axle area. So, the 0.1 inch tube can stay there and not cause a problem because you're not counting on it to take any load in the axle area. 

And the floor and body of the trailer doesn't need to be removed to do it. 




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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2019 at 1:07pm
Originally posted by offgrid

Originally posted by furpod

 

Switch to discs.. popular mod in a couple other groups I am in..

Yeah, i looked at doing that. Not only would I need to switch to discs but I'd need an electric over hydraulic actuator. Probably around $1500 in parts IIRC. So the operative word here is prefer. But that preference isn't worth $1500.  Let me know if anyone in the other groups has found a cheaper way.

Barring that, I'd probably be more inclined to switch to a 5200 lb axle with drum brakes, that would both be cheaper and would provide more headroom on axle capacity as well as more powerful braking. 


Yeah, the dual axle kit, which includes everything needed is around $2k.. But the guys who have done it swear it's worth every penny.. Of course this is on Lances and Airstreams...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2019 at 1:31pm

   
[/QUOTE]

Suppose that all the shop does is straighten the existing frame rail and doesn't even weld it up. Then, the shop welds another 2x4 rectangular tube to the bottom of that rail, but this time its say a 0.1875 thick tube. This new tube extends well in front of and behind the axle attachment point and is continuously welded to the old tube. Then the axle is attached to the new tube. The new assembly will be much stronger than the old tube was even if there is zero capacity left in the old tube. Since the peak loads on the frame are at or near the axle attachment and drop off rapidly in front of and behind that area the 0.1 inch tube is fine to carry the loads as long as you extend the new heavier tube a foot or two from the axle area. So, the 0.1 inch tube can stay there and not cause a problem because you're not counting on it to take any load in the axle area. 

And the floor and body of the trailer doesn't need to be removed to do it. 

[/QUOTE]

What's your thought on 2x2 .125 steel tube. I still have some around here. Actually enough to run both sides  end to end. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2019 at 1:36pm
Originally posted by furpod

[QUOTE=Olddawgsrule] [

Where were you blasted? I will admit I try to check in every day if possible, and I have not seen it. Feel free to PM me if needed about any issue with the site or our members.

Not in this group! Another Rpod group.. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2019 at 2:37pm
Update: Just heard from the Dealership. It has been looked at.

They are deciding upon approach of repair. The floor bend/fix seems to bother them the most right now. I 'guess' that's good... the frame doesn't seem to bother them as much. 

The journey continues..
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2019 at 2:42pm
Originally posted by Olddawgsrule


What's your thought on 2x2 .125 steel tube. I still have some around here. Actually enough to run both sides  end to end. 

Section modulus of that shape is only 0.55 in^3. Not enough especially if you can't depend on there being any strength left in the original tube. I think you'd want at least a 2x4x.1875 tube which has a section modulus of 2.1. But you don't have to run them the whole length of the trailer. About 3 feet should do it. Shouldn't cost much at all for the steel. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2019 at 2:51pm
[/QUOTE]

Section modulus of that shape is only 0.55 in^3. Not enough especially if you can't depend on there being any strength left in the original tube. I think you'd want at least a 2x4x.1875 tube which has a section modulus of 2.1. But you don't have to run them the whole length of the trailer. About 3 feet should do it. Shouldn't cost much at all for the steel. 
[/QUOTE]

I need to fix my spreadsheet formula.. The numbers never match yours.. Yet I did come up with 56% less.. Thank you for confirming.

I did run a 2x3 .25 steel and found 43% increase. I do wish to see it lifted and have no idea way I'm debating the amount... 

My mind is spinning.. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2019 at 5:10pm
A good welder can fix that, and give you a built-in riser at the same time. Convert your 182G to a Hood River and repair your frame at the same time.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2019 at 7:12pm
If you add a frame rail you will not want to continuously welded it, it will be stronger to stitch weld it. 
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