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Topic ClosedFridge doesn't work on propane, no clicks or gas f

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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Fridge doesn't work on propane, no clicks or gas f
    Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 7:31am
Why do you need a voltage regulator, the gas solenoid ought to work on 12V directly from the battery (via a fuse of course)?  

If you do what I think you're suggesting, bypassing the control board permanently when on propane, then consider that you will be manually lighting the fridge and if the flame blows out your gas flow will not shut off. You will also lose the ability to regulate the fridge temperature while on propane. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 7:46am
Originally posted by offgrid

Why do you need a voltage regulator, the gas solenoid ought to work on 12V directly from the battery (via a fuse of course)?  
If you do what I think you're suggesting, bypassing the control board permanently when on propane, then consider that you will be manually lighting the fridge and if the flame blows out your gas flow will not shut off. You will also lose the ability to regulate the fridge temperature while on propane. 


So most solenoids tend to be low voltage and current. In this case, it's 1.5v.

It's my understanding that while on propane, it doesn't really turn off. I think the temp control is more for shore connections.

I'm told the older rv fridges were operated manually like this, turn it on and light it. In terms of blowing out, it is a very protected flame and only has a little bit of gas flow. It's not like the water heater with high gas flow and needs to be turned on and off regularly.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 9:02am
Ok, got it on the 1.5V.  You'd want a dc-dc converter for that. There are also lots of 12V solenoids available if you wanted to go that route. If you're just going to turn the gas on and off manually anyway you could also remove the solenoid entirely and install a manual gas valve. That  would also give you a way to adjust the flame to get more or less the temp you wanted in the fridge

I don't know on the current Dometics if the gas shuts off when the flame is out or not, I certainly hope so.  I've had several older Dometic gas fridges over the years in different RV's. They had manual hold down buttons to flow gas to get the flame started.  If the flame went out or failed to start then they would shut off the gas, like a pilot light shutoff on a household gas appliance.  They also had manual gas flow adjustment so you could control the temp in the fridge.  The flame would be off fairly frequently in those old fridges, but the gas would shut off. If it was me, I would not want to depend on the flame staying lit to avoid a propane leak. 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 10:07am
Originally posted by Bovine0001



It's my understanding that while on propane, it doesn't really turn off. I think the temp control is more for shore connections. 
 

Mine does. When the interior temp is at the set temp the flame goes out. When the thermistor and control board calls for it, the flame re-lights. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 10:21am
Good point, Offgrid, on the valve replacement.

I wonder how the system detects gas flow, in order to turn it off?

I guess I'm trying to avoid buying a new control board, seeing as it still runs the electric part just fine. Especially when I can do a little work around for 10 bucks, versus 150-200. And, since I only use propane a few times a year, I can handle checking flame to make sure it stays lit.

That said, I'll probably replace the board eventually....
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 10:24am
Originally posted by podwerkz


Originally posted by Bovine0001


It's my understanding that while on propane, it doesn't really turn off. I think the temp control is more for shore connections. 
 
Mine does. When the interior temp is at the set temp the flame goes out. When the thermistor and control board calls for it, the flame re-lights. 


Thanks. Good to know. Just ran my fridge all night on gas, wasn't too cold, so it might take a long time before it gets too cold.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 10:59am
Oh, and figuring out which board to replace the current one is maddening! Everyone sells dinosaur boards, but doesn't give a list of compatible parts.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 12:24pm
They sense the gas flow by the presence of flame. The older units have a thermocouple that is positioned in the flame and holds the gas valve open as long as it is heated. If the flame goes out it cools down quickly and shuts off. The button you hold in while lighting bypasses that and keeps the valve open, so you have to keep pressing it for awhile after the flame is lit. The generic term for these are millivolt controllers, gas water heaters and fireplaces have them as well. 

If you're thinking about replacing the control board anyway there is no time like the present. Its safer, saves the time and money tinkering with a temporary solution, and you would I think end up wanting to do it before you eventually sell the trailer anyway. I wouldn't want to think about the liability that you'd pick up if you sold it with a bypassed propane system and the future owner ever had a problem Star
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 12:39pm
Yeah, definitely need to fix before I sell it. But, as we've been chatting, I've been trying to look up control boards and I've had a real hard time finding a replacement. I can't find a seller WITH a compatible part list.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 3:55pm
Looks like from the schematic that there are two cb's, the main control board and the gas igniter. Do you know which one is bad? Have you tried calling Dinosaur with your model number and asked them?

Also  you might check out this link:


Good luck and please let us know what you wind up with....
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