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Topic ClosedFridge doesn't work on propane, no clicks or gas f

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Bovine0001 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Fridge doesn't work on propane, no clicks or gas f
    Posted: 19 Aug 2019 at 9:00pm
I've had my pod for 4 years now. It's a 2014 178. The fridge has worked fine but last weekend the propane part of the fridge stopped working.

The fridge beeps with warnings, it does not click the igniter and does not flow gas into burner. Gas flows to everything else just fine. I tried lighting the gas manually at the burner. Didn't work. I took apart the gas line from the solenoid to the burner and it is clean. The are no spider webs.

I think a control board could be bad, since it is not turning on the solenoid or igniter. Wondering how to diagnose and fix or bypass the controller.

Thanks
2014 Rpod 178
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1: Added USB charging port
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3: Solar Panel
4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 6:05am
The igniter works on 12v. Make sure that your battery is working properly and the 12v fuse on the panel for the fridge is good.

I don't know how to trouble shoot the board. If it is indeed bad, look at Dinasour replacement boards....they have a very good rep. Also, I bet they can tell you how to test it.
https://www.rvshop.com/Dinosaur-Electronics_bymfg_137-0-1.html
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 7:04am
I assume that the fridge is working OK on 12V electric?

Here are the manuals. The installation manual has a schematic. The operations manual decodes the alarms.

I would start by pulling 12V power to the fridge to reset the circuit board, then be sure its getting 12V after you reconnect.  If it doesn't start on gas after that then you could confirm your theory that the controls are bad by seeing if you're getting 12V to the gas solenoid valve immediately after you put it in gas mode. If it doesn't light it should lock out so check it right away, or reset it again.  If the solenoid isn't getting 12V then the burner controller probably needs to be replaced. Check the alarm codes too.  


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 7:31am
A reset is a good idea. I did pull the fuse to the fridge, but didn't leave it out a long time. I can try that again and wait 30 minutes. Heck, maybe disconnecting the battery would be better.
2014 Rpod 178
Mods in Order:
1: Added USB charging port
2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty
3: Solar Panel
4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 7:43am
Shouldn't take that long to reset but it can't hurt. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2019 at 11:44am
We just had this issue but with our furnace.  Same scenario, igniter not clicking and no gas flow.  Turned out the igniter had to be replaced.  Furnace had to be pulled as they did a bunch of testing to figure out why no gas flow, apparently with the igniter having puked, it wouldn't allow the gas to flow out from the valve. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 1:42pm
Update, disconnected the power. Didn't help. I'm off to check things with the multimeter.

If my control board is bad, I wonder how hard it would be to bypass it and light it manually?
2014 Rpod 178
Mods in Order:
1: Added USB charging port
2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty
3: Solar Panel
4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 4:53pm
Might not be too hard (it would likely only take jumping 12V to the gas valve) but it would be unsafe beyond a carefully monitored test.  You don't want the gas flow to be on if the flame is not. There looks like there are both a control board and a burner controller. 
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1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 5:09pm
My igniter wires came loose once. They are just black and red push in plugs. Worth checking. I don't remember getting an alarm, though.

fred
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 8:23pm
So, the board is bad. Electric output to the gas valve is almost 0. And, there is no power coming off board to the igniter too.

But, the electric works. I'm gonna buy a voltage regulator to power the valve directly. Much cheaper than a new control board. probably need a fuse too
2014 Rpod 178
Mods in Order:
1: Added USB charging port
2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty
3: Solar Panel
4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath
Back to Top
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