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Topic ClosedCan my truck power the fridge while towing?

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lostagain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Can my truck power the fridge while towing?
    Posted: 23 Aug 2019 at 7:47pm
Which is worse, a fire in the fridge set by propane that engulfs the propane tank and explodes it or a fire that is set by over heated 12 v. wires to the fridge that engulfs the propane tank and explodes it?

If you want to run your fridge on 12 while you drive, you need to have an alternator that will supply adequate power and, from the engine compartment to the fridge, wires of sufficient size to conduct the current without heating up too much and blowing a fuse or starting a fire.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep 2019 at 10:30pm
Yup, which is the heart of my question.
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2019 at 1:23am
Originally posted by poohbill

Yup, which is the heart of my question.

Since you said earlier that you found the problem and it was a blown fuse, I don't think you have an alternator problem. 

Did you replace the 20A fuse that had blown? That fuse is there to protect the wire to the trailer connector. The fuse will blow before the wire will melt, you don't need to worry about that. If you haven't replaced the fuse, do so. See if it blows again. 

While most of us have a 30A fuse and 10 gauge wire to the trailer, you apparently have 20A and probably 12 gauge wire. That is marginal capacity but the fridge itself takes "only" about 10-11 amps so 20A might handle it ok as long as you don't have a bunch of other stuff turned on in the trailer while towing. 

The most likely time for the fuse to blow is after a couple of days camping and you've drawn down the trailer battery, then you plug in the connector with the TV running and its battery fully charged. The current running through the charging circuit will be high until the two batteries start to equalize in voltage. Under those conditions let the TV charge the trailer battery for a little before turning the fridge to 12V. 

If you continue to have problems blowing the 20A fuse then you can bypass that 20A feed and run a new 10 gauge circuit directly from the TV battery through a 30A circuit breaker and then back to the trailer connector. Kits for that are available through etrailer and other suppliers. Or, forget the 12V on  the fridge and just run it on propane, and see if that keeps you from blowing the fuse. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2019 at 7:26am
Plus 1 to furpods response.

I started out using the battery feature when traveling and realized how much/many times I was dis-connecting as we stopped and explored along the way. We'll spend 8-12hrs traveling to a 3-4hr destination with all the stops. I loved the fact we have this option, yet for me, it just wasn't working out as I hoped. I'm a propane 'all' the time guy now. I find myself on the rare serviced site (overnight) and I leave it on propane. 

LOL, My bacon or beer never gets warm! 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2019 at 9:04am
Originally posted by Olddawgsrule

Plus 1 to furpods response.

I started out using the battery feature when traveling and realized how much/many times I was dis-connecting as we stopped and explored along the way. We'll spend 8-12hrs traveling to a 3-4hr destination with all the stops. I loved the fact we have this option, yet for me, it just wasn't working out as I hoped. I'm a propane 'all' the time guy now. I find myself on the rare serviced site (overnight) and I leave it on propane. 

LOL, My bacon or beer never gets warm!
Our TV disconnects the 12V when the engine is off, so we don't really have to worry about that. As usual, YMMV.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 3:03pm
 Yes, absolutely. Your 7 pin socket can be wired to supply 12v @ 30 amps to your trailer. I know because my 2015 Ford Escape came with a 4 pin connector. My R-pod came with a 7 pin cord.
 I read the instructions that came with the 7 pin socket. (Let me repeat that, I Read the Instructions) Got the additional fuses* and wire. Took me a little over an hour to dress all wiring. * special size and shape, Not tube or push-in style.  
 At the same time I installed an electric brake controller.
When hitching up my R-pod I leave shore power connected till the last minute. After I put the power cord away I then connect the 7 pin and start my car. Then I switch the refrigerator from 120 v to 12 volt operation. Only drawback I can see is if I were to leave the trailer connected and the engine off for more than a few minutes (the time it takes to pump gas or get takeout) I would run the risk of draining my cars battery. But I’ve taken 6 trips and so far no problems or issues.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 6:40pm
I use the TV 12vs to power reefer when traveling. I have also traveled with propane on. Mine works fine.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 9:25pm
Check the fuse box on the  Ridgeline,there should be a 20 amp fuse in the
TRL CHARGE, Position 11 in the fuse box,  20 amps should run the refer.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2019 at 11:32am
In some states it is illegal to run with your propane in the open position. I use the electric on my 180 when running down the road and never had an issue.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2019 at 1:27pm
I traveled I90 thru New York. About every 25 feet is a sign saying it is illegal to travel with the propane running. I have a 195 and the 12v option is not offered on this model.  I hated thinking that I was some type of criminal, for just trying to get to my camp destination, but what option do we have. I don't fill my fridge usually, I carry about 2 days of food, and buy near by where I camp.  But that small amount still needs refrigeration. To bad we can't get a larger version of the little generator I used to have on my bicycle tire to power my light. We could land a man on the moon 50 years ago, and power a bicycle light, but supplying a few amps to a fridge can't be done. Go figure.
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