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vegasartist View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Potential R-Pod buyer
    Posted: 23 May 2020 at 5:01pm
Great information everyone. I knew when I found this forum that actual owner feedback would be the best way to get an accurate picture of the best options. Thanks.
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 9:49am
+1 to what lostagain said. The real indicator of what you will be able to tow is the yellow sticker on the inside of the driver-side door jamb. It should show the maximum load your tow vehicle can handle. That should take into account all the variables. You will have to subtract passenger and cargo from that number. The left over can be applied to hitch weight.

We also use a Fastway E2 round bar. It's a combo WDH and anti-sway system. Works very well on our F-150, and would probably be one of the choices for your Durango.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 9:41am
The 25 series Bigfoot trailers have a GTW of around 7500 lbs. They are heavy suckers. The curb weight of the Durango is around 5000. With a realistic amount for TV passengers and cargo the rig total will be up around 13000. The MCGVWR is 14000. Doable but not what I'd call plenty of safety margin there. If I was doing a lot of mountain travel I'd want something lighter to tow.  
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lostagain View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 8:52am
Probably the most reliable information for your trailer weight capacity is your window sticker since it is specific to the car and takes into account the actual weight of the vehicle and accessories.  All the charts use a generic car, but 8000 lbs. is plenty of capacity for the kind of trailers you are proposing.  

As for a WHD, I agree with OG.  We use a Fastway e-2 roundbar and it works very well adding stability and balance, even in awful conditions.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 8:18am
No problem. Most folks on this forum (I think) run a weight distribution hitch/anti sway combo. There are many choices and everyone has their favorite. The WDH uses spring bars to move some of the hitch load from the rear axle of the TV to the TV front axle and trailer axle. The problem is that without one the front of the TV rotates up when the hitch load is applied, causing load on the front axle to go down and load on the rear axle to increase even more than the load on the hitch. A WDH doesn't actually increase the hitch load capacity of the TV though (unless the TV mfr states that it does), nor should you think about antisway as a way to overcome problems with an improperly loaded trailer. Think of them as belt and suspenders, adding an extra margin of safety. You'll know if your trailer is loaded too far aft if you jog your wheel (carefully!) without sway control engaged and the trailer oscillates back and forth more than once before tracking the new line.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 6:13am
The figures in the pdf file agree with the link I posted. I have the 2wd, SLT with 3.92 axle ratio. The max trailer weight on the pdf is 8950.

The calculator link is most interesting. At such time as I reach a point where I can at least narrow the choices to 3+ then I will certainly attempt to run the numbers.

In the past the dealers I spoke to recommended anti sway bars on the vehicle. True? Or are better options available?

Thank for the calculator chart.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 5:44am
I found this for the 06 Durango:


The 4500 lbs for the Bigfoot is a dry weight. That's really not the right number to be looking at. Trailers only go down the road once at the dry weight, if then, on their way from the manufacturer to the dealer. Much better to use the gross trailer weight for selection purposes, most loaded trailers are going to be close to that number. 

The max tow number specified by the vehicle manufacturers is also highly optimistic. It assumes one skinny driver and nothing else in the TV. Who does that?

Also, don't get over focussed on the tow weight number. There are really 5 TV specs you need to stay within. The other 4 are hitch weight, front and rear axle weights, and, importantly, max combined gross vehicle weight. 

Take a look at this calculator, once you get all your tow vehicle specs and dimensions in, including people and gear, it is very helpful in seeing where you are at with various trailer options. Add about an additional 100 lbs at the rear for a weight distribution hitch, which most folks recommend. Up to you how close to your max TV specs you want to be, personally I try to keep at least 10% headroom on all of them. This is supposed to be fun, not a white knuckle experience. 


On hitch weight, you should stay in the 10-15 percent range of trailer weight, higher is better to reduce sway risk. It will vary as the trailer load varies, especially as water moves from your fresh to your gray and black tanks, unless you plan on always having hookups and never hauling any water.  Water is HEAVY. For an initial check I'd suggest using 14-15% of gross trailer weight for hitch weight. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 10:53pm
I still have the window sticker from the vehicle when I bought it new. It showed 8000 pounds. According to the trailer dealer my rear axle ratio ups the number to 9000 pounds.

Found this online. Third paragraph states 8950 pounds.
https://www.autoblog.com/buy/2006-dodge-durango/expert-review/pg-3/
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 9:25pm
You can do a vin run yourself.  It'd be worth double checking.  9000# sounds pretty high for a Durango.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 8:48pm
The Bigfoot 25B series weighs just under 4500. The other models are much heavier. Three years ago a dealer ran my vin through Chrysler. He said that based on my specs including the rear axle ratio my Durango is rated at a maximum towing weight off 9000. But he cautioned me to stay under 7000. Under 6000 even better.
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