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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Potential R-Pod buyer
    Posted: 21 May 2020 at 5:33am
If you are going to full time and follow the seasons to stay where it is warm then you can probably forgo the 4 season insulation requirements, but I agree that the build quality of rPods and similar mass market RV's is not up to the level needed for full time living. There aren't a lot of smaller TT's that are built for that, and the ones that are pricey, as podwerkz says. There are more quality choices in larger trailers and 5th wheels, most full timers go bigger, which you don't want or need. You might want to also consider a Casita or Escape, new or used, if you can find one.

Re MX, I have travelled extensively as well, and hold the opposite opinion of Mexico (and its cuisine). As to government corruption, I can't think of anywhere warm you can reasonably drive to from Vegas that I would place high on my list for clean government these days. 

That is one drawback with RV living, you have to be able to get to your destination by road. If MX is off your list and you want somewhere substantially warmer than Vegas you're probably headed to south Florida at some point, and even that is not as warm in winter as you seem to prefer.  

If you like the nomadic lifestyle, don't mind small spaces, and truly want year round access to a warm humid climate, you might also consider sailing and joining the many liveaboards that transit up and down the ICW every year between FL and the Mid Altantic/Northeast. That gives you access to the Bahamas and points farther south depending on how adventurous you are. A nicely equipped sailboat in the mid 30 foot range can be had quite inexpensively. Unless you want to play russian roulette with hurricanes you pretty much have to head north for the summer and fall though. 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 8:49am
One other brand you could consider is Bigfoot. I have seen one of those, and they are quite nice. They are quite pricey, but they are very well built, to include being 4 season capable.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 8:57am
The Sonoma that replaced our Pod has the insulation that Podwerkz mentioned and a heater duct to the insulated tank area.  We spent 5 days in Las Vegas in it last Jan. and it was more than adequately insulated for the cold.  It is another FR product and is priced about the same as the r-Pod.  They are made in So. CA and are less expensive to buy on the west coast than trailers made in Indiana, the center of North American trailer manufacturing since transportation costs can be less.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 5:45pm
Thanks for the Bigfoot and Sonoma suggestions. More possibilities.

Note to Offgrid...... Sailboats. Completed that adventure years ago. 4 sailboats. Hobie 16 catamaran in Seattle. Lots of Puget Sound sailing. In Southern California 3 boats. 30' Capri racer cruiser. Then a Swan 44' (441).
https://www.google.com/searchq=swan+441oq=swan+441aqs=chrome..69i57j0l7.6727j0j4sourceid=silkie=utf-8
And finally Melges 24' an all out high tech racing boat capable of 20 knot + speeds off the wind
Most of my sailing was racing. Some cruising. A week in the Channel Islands, Many days anchored off Catalina, A week long bareboat charter on a 44' sailboat in Tahiti. And many over night sailboat races.

Hurricanes, typhoons and cyclones sailors learn to avoid. I have experienced 4 typhoons in the Philippines. Not on a boat thankfully.

My investigation continues. Appreciate all the helpful tips.    Michael
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 5:04am
Other than price the drawback of the Bigfoot is weight, probably just the smallest ones would be Durango towable, and like the Casita, those are pretty small inside.

Gotcha vegasartist on the sailboat adventuring. I'm over it personally too, had a 32 ft mono before changing over to a multihull which I much preferred for cruising. No more "leaning" and shoal draft which is essential on the East Coast. CA, MD, and NC.  

I'm done with hurricanes. Left the Outer Banks because of those, I lost count at around 10. But I know several folks that enjoy the trek following the warm weather up and down the "Ditch" annually, avoiding hurricanes.  Very low key, only go offshore when they want to and the weather is perfect or just relaxed sailing on the bays and sounds. Nice and warm, not like cruising on the West Coast with that cccold water. 

I suggested it because you sound like you prefer truly warm winter weather, and that is not easy to access via road while staying in the US. You have S. Fl and possibly S. TX if that's warm enough. Too bad you can't drive to HI....
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 8:48pm
The Bigfoot 25B series weighs just under 4500. The other models are much heavier. Three years ago a dealer ran my vin through Chrysler. He said that based on my specs including the rear axle ratio my Durango is rated at a maximum towing weight off 9000. But he cautioned me to stay under 7000. Under 6000 even better.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 9:25pm
You can do a vin run yourself.  It'd be worth double checking.  9000# sounds pretty high for a Durango.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 10:53pm
I still have the window sticker from the vehicle when I bought it new. It showed 8000 pounds. According to the trailer dealer my rear axle ratio ups the number to 9000 pounds.

Found this online. Third paragraph states 8950 pounds.
https://www.autoblog.com/buy/2006-dodge-durango/expert-review/pg-3/
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 5:44am
I found this for the 06 Durango:


The 4500 lbs for the Bigfoot is a dry weight. That's really not the right number to be looking at. Trailers only go down the road once at the dry weight, if then, on their way from the manufacturer to the dealer. Much better to use the gross trailer weight for selection purposes, most loaded trailers are going to be close to that number. 

The max tow number specified by the vehicle manufacturers is also highly optimistic. It assumes one skinny driver and nothing else in the TV. Who does that?

Also, don't get over focussed on the tow weight number. There are really 5 TV specs you need to stay within. The other 4 are hitch weight, front and rear axle weights, and, importantly, max combined gross vehicle weight. 

Take a look at this calculator, once you get all your tow vehicle specs and dimensions in, including people and gear, it is very helpful in seeing where you are at with various trailer options. Add about an additional 100 lbs at the rear for a weight distribution hitch, which most folks recommend. Up to you how close to your max TV specs you want to be, personally I try to keep at least 10% headroom on all of them. This is supposed to be fun, not a white knuckle experience. 


On hitch weight, you should stay in the 10-15 percent range of trailer weight, higher is better to reduce sway risk. It will vary as the trailer load varies, especially as water moves from your fresh to your gray and black tanks, unless you plan on always having hookups and never hauling any water.  Water is HEAVY. For an initial check I'd suggest using 14-15% of gross trailer weight for hitch weight. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2020 at 6:13am
The figures in the pdf file agree with the link I posted. I have the 2wd, SLT with 3.92 axle ratio. The max trailer weight on the pdf is 8950.

The calculator link is most interesting. At such time as I reach a point where I can at least narrow the choices to 3+ then I will certainly attempt to run the numbers.

In the past the dealers I spoke to recommended anti sway bars on the vehicle. True? Or are better options available?

Thank for the calculator chart.
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